Decorating items from cold porcelain. Stucco molding on plates. cold porcelain. Features of cold porcelain products

Cold porcelain preparation and staining. Master class from Ledivseti

My dear needlewomen! Greetings to everyone who is very interested in cold porcelain, would like to cook it, but cannot start cooking it due to the lack of cornstarch. As it turned out, you can use potato starch, despite the denial of many craftswomen on the net. My huge gratitude to the author from the Country of Masters Olga Molchanova for inspiration for creativity, for a detailed master class, for revealing all the secrets of cold porcelain, for her wonderful work! Thanks! You can get to know the author better at http://stranamasterov.ru/user/248586. Next, I post the author's text.

I want to note that these flowers, white, which are below, the author first covers with a white primer-enamel from a spray can (car), and on top, too, from a spray can with car varnish. That is why they are so snow-white and shiny)

So, we need:

Starch 250 gram glass (corn or potato)

PVA glue 250 gram glass (I mix the moment-super with some simple PVA)

Glycerin 1-2 tablespoons (available in pharmacies)

Hand cream 1 tablespoon (preferably nourishing or velvet)

Powdered citric acid 0.5 teaspoon (no slide)

Pour the glue into a glass or Teflon dish, add glycerin, cream and citric acid. Mix everything thoroughly until smooth.

Pour starch into our container and mix thoroughly again.

We get a mass that resembles sour cream in consistency. It bubbles a little - it's citric acid, nothing to worry about.

We put the dishes with our mixture on a small fire or water bath and, stirring constantly, heat. Lumps of semi-cooked mass will begin to appear soon.

Do not forget to interfere all the time, otherwise it may burn in the glass.

The process is accelerating. The mass is getting thicker. While stirring, do not forget to walk not only along the bottom, but also along the walls of the dishes.

As soon as all the mass gathers in a lump and ceases to be liquid, the porcelain is almost ready.

Lubricate the table with cream, on which we will knead the mass.

We spread the hot mass on the table. We immediately soak the dishes in which the porcelain was cooked with water, so that in the future there are no problems with washing the glue and there is no negative impression from the cooking process.

And we begin to knead like dough for dumplings. If the portion is small, then the lump quickly begins to cool down and the hands are quite tolerant. If the volume is exceeded by 2-3 times, then you can wait a little, when the mass cools down a little, covering with a damp cloth napkin.

After kneading and cooling, you should get a white, smooth, plastic and non-sticky mass.

Plasticity is tested like this: grab a piece and start pulling. A normal plastic mass, of a suitable consistency, does not break in pieces, is not rubbery and keeps its shape without spreading over the table.

That's it, our cold porcelain is ready!

We take cling film or plastic bag and tightly wrap our cherished piece. We let him lie down for several hours. Although you can sculpt almost immediately. We store at room temperature tightly packed, not because of any harm to health, but so that our porcelain does not lose its qualities and does not dry out before we pile something beautiful out of it. Anticipating future questions, I want to add that you can cook not only on a stove or a water bath, but also in a microwave. In this case, the mass is heated in several steps with stirring after each heating. Depending on the amount of mass prepared and the power of the microwave, first heat it up 2-3 times for 20-30 seconds, until the mass heats up and begins to thicken. After that, the heating time is reduced to 10 seconds, remembering to stir each time, which will help to prepare a homogeneous mass.

So, we will assume that we have coped well with cooking the mass ... Having seen an extraordinary flower or a beautiful picture, we are illuminated by the idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a unique masterpiece. It was approximately the same with this work, well, I really liked the orchid!

What do we need?

And in the photo - a set of what I use. it acrylic paints, gouache, dry pigments (center), food coloring (pictured above), water-based paint (bottom right), dry pastels (crayons in boxes). I want to add that the photo lacks some components that I do not use, but which may well be suitable for novice needlewomen - these are unnecessary, or well, a very beautiful shade of shadows and lipstick. Also, there are no oil paints in the photo, which are perfect both for painting inside and outside. In general, almost everything that can be painted in the slightest degree will suit us.

For example, we take different dyes not in color, but in consistency. Blue is a food coloring (why I will describe liquid at the end), yellow is a dry pigment, green is a water-based paint. So we put paint on our cherished pieces.

We wrap inward and begin to crumple.

Knead thoroughly so that the mass is uniformly colored. The result is an excellent result. We wrap it in a film and start sculpting.

I also want to give a couple of examples if you need color transitions in a flower, such as here.

Divide the colored piece into three parts. To one of them we add black porcelain, very little or black pigment.

Mix it thoroughly. We end up with the following.

Divide the dark piece into two parts.

Combine one of them with a light piece and knead.

Here you go. The middle is molded from the darkest, the middle 2-3 rows of petals are lighter, and the outer ones are lighter.

Let's fix the topic with another example:

The lighting is not very good, but you can take the word for it - it will be red. Why - I will describe below. We divide into three parts.

To one of them we add a piece of white porcelain, to another dry pigment or a darker shade the finished mass. Knead each of the pieces thoroughly.

The result of our alchemical experiments! Sculpt! Now for a few subtle points. For some reason, unknown to me, it is most convenient to knead the finished mass not with your fingers, but in the palm of your hand. For some reason, it does not stick to the palm of the hand, and pieces of adhering porcelain remain on the fingers, and even he tries to get under the nails ... Therefore, I consider this kneading technique acceptable for myself:

Place the piece in the palm of your hand and flatten it into a cake with the other palm.

Fold in half.

Flatten it again with your palm. A pad on the palm under the thumb is very suitable for this ...

Now we wrap it on the other side and repeat the procedure.

Until it turns a solid color.

Well, now, in general, all the secrets:

Perhaps the first thing to know is that when it dries, the dyed porcelain takes on a more intense color than wet, so if you are not sure of the result, roll out a drop of dyed porcelain and let it dry to make sure

Dry pigments can be purchased at soap shops or nail designers.

Pastels are mainly used for tinting leaves and petals, and not inside the mass. It should be noted that you need to tint the workpiece while still wet.

Dry pastel does not apply to dry porcelain. water-based paint was also purchased from a nail art store. It is necessary to add it, like oil, with caution so as not to overdo it, without diluting it with water.

Outwardly, cold porcelain is similar to plasticine or clay, but unlike them, it does not require cooking, baking or baking. It hardens within 2 days, and becomes quite dense and durable. You can combine this material with any decor: buttons, lace, shells, and sprinkle the surface with sand, beads, paint with any paints and varnishes.

The first such products date back to the 19th century, the exact country of origin is unknown, but this is attributed to the Argentines.

Products made from cold porcelain are extraordinarily beautiful, but they require special care. Moisture can soften them, causing them to become sour, and the sun's rays discolor. The effect of high temperatures can lead to dryness, and too low temperatures can lead to destruction.

It is possible to extend the life of cold porcelain crafts by applying several protective layers of varnish. This will not only protect them from exposure environmentbut will also give shine and color.

You can dazzle anything from cold porcelain at home: from small jewelry to small decorative accessories. Many people use this technology to decorate flower pots and dishes, and the most valuable are decorative garlands in the form of flowers, leaves, greenery and figurines of animals and cartoon characters.

How to make cold porcelain with your own hands?

To do this, you need to acquire the following materials:

• 200 grams of PVA glue;
• Rice starch (if not available, you can use corn starch) in the amount of 1 cup;
• 2 tbsp. tablespoons of glycerin;
• Any non-greasy cream.

Mix the ingredients and set aside for 10-20 minutes. You cannot leave the mixture for a long time, you should start work immediately and, if possible, use all the material. Sometimes citric acid is added to the composition to increase the shelf life of the product.

If you add water, the products will be fragile. Any food coloring or chalk is used to dye porcelain. It is recommended to refine the surface no earlier than 2 days after the product has dried.

Where to begin?

For work, you will first need materials and the following tools:

• Any object that can be rolled out;
• Scissors, tweezers and toothpicks;
• Brushes and various paints;
• Chopping surface;
• Glue for forming crafts;
• Gloves and wet wipes;

If you are planning such a lesson for the first time, before starting the main work, you need to watch the master class and get acquainted with the detailed step by step instructions for beginners, otherwise you risk ruining the material and not getting the desired result.

The first examples for your masterpieces can be taken on the Internet from photos and videos of crafts using cold porcelain. Better to start by creating flowers.

Sakura, made using cold porcelain technique

Part required material you need to make it white, and paint the other pink. Two layers of different shades need to be fastened together and cut into rectangles from them - blanks for the petals.

With the help of tools, you need to shape the petals so that the base is pink and the edges are white. With the help of glue, fasten the petals, and in the middle with a toothpick make a hole for the wire, which will serve as a stem. After drying, flowers need to be collected in branches in order to naturally repeat the structure of a real flower.

Making roses using cold porcelain technique

To form this flower, a small piece of porcelain is taken and transformed into a ball shape, from which it is necessary to obtain a shape in the form of a drop.

Next, the end of the toothpick is dipped in PVA glue, then the drop is placed with the wide side on the end moistened with glue. For the convenience of further work, it is worth fixing the toothpicks on a piece of sponge or foam rubber. It is better to make pistils in advance so that they have time to dry out by the time the bud is combined.

To make petals, you need to prepare the balls again and form drops. Using your fingers, flatten the drops and get the finished petals.

With the help of glue, we fix the resulting petals in a circle with an overlap, as if hugging the core, and bend them a little to create a natural effect.

From such flowers, you can make a whole topiary, which will decorate the room and will delight with an unusual appearance.

conclusions

Cold porcelain can be used to make not only flowers, but also various souvenirs that can be presented to loved ones - key chains, personalized cups, hand-decorated, figurines, panels and whole paintings. Such a gift will not leave anyone indifferent.

Photos of cold porcelain crafts

Elegant and durable cold porcelain products resemble ordinary porcelain in appearance, having little in common in practice. Despite the fact that the Japanese have known him for more than five thousand years, it has spread throughout Europe recently. Porcelain, properly prepared, looks fragile and translucent, but in fact, very durable gizmos are obtained from it. In addition, it is completely safe and easy to use.

Making material at home is as easy as shelling pears, and even a child can handle modeling. We offer you to take our master class "How to make cold porcelain."

Tools

To master the craft, you do not need any special tools. If you are not going to become a professional sculptor, make do with the available tools.

Use rulers, knitting needles, nail files as stacks. Attach the bead to a toothpick: this simple device is convenient to roll out the material to the desired thickness.

To sculpt some gizmos, texture molds are needed. Unexpected things can play their role. For example, real plants and flowers will help you create a beautiful petal or leaf.

Cooking recipes

Homemade cold porcelain can be made in a number of ways, using ingredients that you probably have in your home.

No recipe is complete without starch. It is best to use corn: the material will be more elastic, weightless and transparent. Potato will add a grayish tint and visual weight. Suitable for sculpting jewelry, figurines.

Cooking without heat treatment

Send two tablespoons of starch and a tablespoon of petroleum jelly to a container, mix. Add a little petroleum jelly and a pinch of regular baking soda. Pour in two tablespoons of PVA glue and mix well.

With heat treatment

In a bowl, combine a glass of starch, one tablespoon each of baby cream, petroleum jelly, and petroleum jelly. Pour in a teaspoon of citric acid and 100 (a little more if necessary) milliliters of PVA glue. Cook the "dough" over low heat until a dense lump is obtained.

Alternative recipe

Mix 150 ml of PVA glue in a bowl, a teaspoon of glycerin and greasy hand cream, pour in 100 ml of water. Begin cooking cold porcelain.

Bring the "dough" until smooth over low heat. Pour in 200 grams of starch. Stir constantly during cooking. When the mass begins to form a lump, remove it from the heat. The second part of cooking is the same for all recipes.

Moisten the towel and place the future china on top of it. After waiting for its partial cooling, proceed to kneading. Various dyes can be added at this stage. Both food and synthetic are suitable, the main thing is that they do not cause allergies.

Wrap the elastic mass in plastic and put it in the refrigerator. Start creating the next day: the porcelain should rest. Without delay, start washing the pan until the residues of the material have dried on the walls.

Cooking errors

Good cold porcelain will be elastic and easy to mold. An error in the dosage of starch, in particular its overabundance, will lead to excessive rigidity of the material. It will be inconvenient to pinch off the pieces from such a mass.

If you see blotches of starch in the "dough", do not rush to throw it away: add a little PVA and knead the material again. Having achieved the required elasticity, wrap the "dough" in polyethylene and refrigerate for a day.

If the material turned out to be sticky, difficult to keep its shape, not plastic, liquid glue is to blame (perhaps you used stationery PVA), insufficient amount of plasticizer. You can try to cook the porcelain until the required qualities appear. If this does not work, you will have to repeat the preparation with better quality glue.

The quality of the adhesive is in many ways a fundamental factor in the final result. This may cause the finished product to crack. Building glue with a plasticizer is best suited.

Properly prepared cold porcelain does not stick to hands and surfaces. If, even after thorough kneading, the mass does not want to take the required shape, it hardly lags behind the film, then it does not have enough glycerin or petroleum jelly. They are responsible for getting rid of excess moisture and plasticity of the material.

Does the material lose its shape, tends to fall off? Add a little starch to thicken the "dough".

Speed \u200b\u200bup drying by using a hair dryer or microwave. A slightly preheated oven will also help. If you are not in a rush, just flip the piece occasionally to dry out from all sides.

Coloring crafts

At the kneading stage, add pigment or water-soluble paint to the mass: tempera, gouache, acrylic.

Powdered dyes (including food) will help to paint the sculpted part. Apply them to the craft and hold them over the steam, allowing the color to absorb.

Use a thin brush and paints to draw details on the finished product. Please note: when dry, water-soluble will fade slightly, while oil will retain brightness and saturation.

Look at a photo of cold porcelain gizmos: what amazing and stunningly beautiful things you can create with a little effort and imagination!

Drying

The craft will naturally dry out in 1-7 days. Placing it in a mild oven will speed up the process.

Do not be alarmed when the product shrinks slightly after drying: it should be so. Consider future shrinkage during the sculpting process.

The benefits of work

Surprisingly, this is true: molding from cold porcelain will bring not only a beautiful product to the world, but also have a positive effect on the well-being of bones and joints. It will improve blood and lymph circulation, relieve seasonal exacerbations of arthritis, arthrosis and gout. Working with small details will improve fine motor skills and calm the nervous system.

Sculpting is a very fun process that is not difficult even for beginners. Let your first work be flowers from cold porcelain, a bird, an animal, jewelry. By increasing the level of skill, you will be able to perform elements that require more delicate work.

Use our simple cold porcelain sculpting instructions for beginners to get creative with your creativity!

DIY cold porcelain photo

Cold porcelain Is an affordable, cheap and most malleable material for modeling today. Working with cold porcelain is absolutely safe and does not require any special skills and knowledge; even a small child can engage in such creativity. You can prepare the material at home, that is, you do not need to run around the shops and look for something special to make your dreams come true, the joy of touching art in order to create a unique decoration or interior item with your own hands.

In their own way appearance cold porcelain resembles clay or plasticine, but after drying it becomes very hard. When sculpting from it, you can use any type of jewelry, any accessories, from small beads and beads, shells, buttons, twigs or dried flowers, to textiles of any structure - threads or rags left over from knitting, embroidery or sewing clothes. The surface of the product using the cold porcelain technique can be painted, sprinkled with fine materials (sand, beads), varnished.

The history of the creation of cold porcelain

The history of this material for modeling dates back to the first years of the 19th century, it was at that time that the records about it and the first products date back to. According to the data, cold porcelain was invented by the Argentines, but there is no exact information about its origin and history of its invention. There is much more information about the Russian master Ivanov Peter, who worked at the imperial porcelain factory and already at the beginning of the 19th century created unique products from a special type of porcelain. According to the archival documents of this St. Petersburg factory, it was Peter Ulyanovich who created the first flowers from cold porcelain. They were intended to decorate perfume bottles and eau de parfum, which was supplied to the emperor and his family.

But there is also earlier evidence of the existence of this material. In Chinese treatises on art and sculpture, there are many descriptions of molding from cold porcelain, but it is called differently, but its recipe is absolutely similar to that used by Ivan Ivanov Peter.

Features of cold porcelain products

Products made from this material are extraordinarily beautiful, but no less demanding. Store or install them away from moisture and direct sunlight. You need to understand that cold porcelain is polymer clay, which is capable of absorbing moisture and becoming limp, losing color from exposure to sunlight. Vases stucco, flowers and other cold porcelain ornaments should not be placed on a window or near a water source.

In rooms where objects made of this material are located, the temperature regime that is optimal for them must be observed. If the air is colder than 10 ° C, the structure will collapse, as the moisture particles in the composition crystallize. High temperatures also destroy cold porcelain - it simply dries up and crumbles.

You can extend the "life" of cold porcelain products by using varnish coatings. They not only protect against moisture, but also help to maintain the shape, color and shine of the surface.

What can be created from cold porcelain

You can sculpt everything from this material - from women's jewelry to small interior items. Hairpins decorated with flowers from this material look very original. For children, together with children, you can mold fairy-tale characters, heroes of their favorite cartoons, which will decorate their room.

Many creative housewives decorate indoor plant pots with cold porcelain stucco molding, frames, lamps and flowerpots.

Garlands of flowers, greenery, figurines of animals or housewives, thematic compositions from cold porcelain will become a unique interior decoration. In addition, you can make an original and inexpensive gift for friends or relatives.

How to make cold porcelain at home

It is not difficult to prepare polymer clay for modeling. The simplest recipe for cold porcelain is rice or corn starch, PVA glue, glycerin and regular baby cream in a ratio of 1: 1 (a glass of glue and starch) and 2: 1 (tablespoons of glycerin and cream).

Mix the ingredients thoroughly and leave for 10-20 minutes. They will dissolve together, and the mass will take on the consistency that is ideal for modeling. Under no circumstances should the prepared material be placed in the refrigerator or stored at room temperature for more than 2 hours. You need to sculpt immediately and it is desirable to spend the entire volume of the prepared material.

Some masters add citric acid to the mass. Products made from such porcelain are stored much longer, as the acid creates a preservation effect.

You can find examples of formulations with water content, but such formulations are fragile and not durable. Water, under the influence of external factors, reacts with other ingredients of the polymer clay composition, as a result of which an unpleasant odor may appear, the shape of the product may change, and its strength is significantly reduced.

To change the color, food colors, chalk are most often used. But even the surface of souvenirs made of cold porcelain can be painted after it has completely dried, not earlier than a day after the end of modeling.

Photo frame with white lilies made of polymer clay

In this master class for decoration photo frames we will combine baked polymer clay with self-hardening floral. But you can make lilies, like leaves, also from floral clay, the manufacturing principle will be the same as shown here, only to glue the lily elements together, you will need to use latex glue. If you are a beginner and still find it difficult to navigate different types clay, read our articles or.

Photo frame decoration. Materials and tools:

• baked polymer clay of white, translucent, cherry color;
• self-hardening green floral clay;
• dry pastels of light green, red and mustard color;
• thin wire;
• mold with the texture of a lily petal (We recommend reading)
• universal mold for leaves;
• breadboard knife;
• stack;
• toothpicks;
• scissors;
• round soft brush;
• flat small brush;
• quick-drying glue;
• cotton wool;
• alcohol;
• photo frame;
• latex gloves

Let's start sculpting.
1. Knead white polymer clay and sculpt 12 identical petals for a lily from it, in this case the length of the petals is 4 cm.

2. Press each petal to a mold with the texture of lily petals.

3. We bend the petal lengthwise and, as it were, bend it slightly with an arc so that it is not even, but slightly curved upward. We process all other petals in the same way.

4. With cotton wool, form a "donut" of the appropriate size. Lay three petals on it so that their lower ends converge in the center of the "donut" and touch each other. Press the center of the petals in contact with the stack so that they stick together. Then place three more petals on top, placing them in the gaps between the lower petals. Also press in the center with the stack so that the petals stick together. Collect the second lily in the same way.

5. Let's continue the "polymer clay" master class. Crush a piece of light green pastel chalk into a powder and paint the name with a soft round brush in the center of the lilies.

6. Take a piece of translucent clay and mix it with a very small amount of light green pastels to give the clay a slight greenish tint. If you are using not translucent for this, but transparent clay, then it is advisable to first mix it with a piece of white clay.

7. Cut a 3cm piece of wire. Put on it a ball of the newly prepared translucent greenish clay and form a pistil, expanding upward and tapering downward. On the top of the pistil, use a toothpick to make indentations dividing it into no three equal parts.

8. Pinch the edge of each of the three pieces slightly with your fingers.

9. Tint the top of the pistil with mustard pastel. Make a second pestle for the second polymer clay lily.

10. In the remaining clay from the pestle, add a piece of translucent clay to make it lighter in color.

11. Slide this clay onto a thin wire and start rolling it between your fingers and stretching it in opposite directions so that the clay covers the wire in an even thin layer.

12. Now cut this wire 12 into 3cm pieces.

13. For the anthers of the stamens, shape the cherry clay into ovals the size of a grain of rice. Press a longitudinal groove on the surface of each grain with the back of the knife.

14. Puncture the blind hole with a toothpick from the bottom of each boot.

15. Place the anthers on top of the stamen legs.

16. Now stick 6 stamens to the pistil.

17. Turn the stamen pestle upside down and place on the cardboard to bake them on.

18. From the white clay, form an oblong bud with a sharp tip. The length of the bud should be slightly less than the length of the petals of polymer clay lilies. Place the bud on a toothpick and press three vertical indentations into its surface with a knife. Make 6 buds.

19. Tint the top of the buds with a red pastel, and tint the underside and grooves with a light green pastel using a flat brush. Then remove the buds from the toothpicks. Now put the buds next to the bunches of stamen pistils, put the lilies on cotton wool next to them and bake all this in the oven. When you take the items out of the oven, remove the cotton wool from under the lilies.

20. Next, we will work with self-hardening floral clay that does not require baking. Cut the wire into 6 pieces 4cm long and roll each piece with a thin layer of green floral clay. Grease the tip of the wire in the clay with quick-drying glue and immediately put the bud on it. Glue the green stems into the rest of the buds in the same way. Fold the three buds together and press the underside of the stems together. They should stick together. If they don't stick well together, you can grease them with glue.

21. Grease the underside of the stamens in the pestle with glue and glue them into the polymer clay lily.

22. Photo frame decoration almost done. Now wipe the frame with cotton wool dipped in alcohol to degrease it. Spread glue on the underside of the stems of the bundle of buds and glue to the desired place at the top of the frame. Then glue the second bunch of buds to the underside of the frame.

23. Use green clay to mold an oblong lily leaf and texture it with a multi-purpose mold.

24. Bend the petal lengthwise, smear its underside with glue and glue so that it covers the ends of the stems of the buds. Then make some more leaves and glue them near the buds and in the place where the lilies will be.

25. Grease the underside of the lily with glue and stick a ball of green floral clay.

26. Lubricate the underside of the ball with glue and place the lily on the required place of the photo frame, press it down. Glue the second lily in the same way.

Polymer clay - master class came to an end, in conclusion I would like to note:
* You can not glue the elements of floral clay wet, but simply temporarily stick them on the photo frame, and then, after the clay has set, carefully remove from the frame and then glue it.

So thanks to the adorable lilies from polymer clay, the decoration of the photo frame has become unusually delicate and stylish.

Now try experimenting, check out our other master classes on polymer clay and decorate the photo frame with your favorite colors.

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