What is time-lapse in the phone. How is Timelapse filmed in motion? Learn how to capture time lapse correctly. Camera remote control

Who doesn't love time lapse? There are either very few such people or none at all.
This is one of my favorite genres of photography as it applies equally to photography and video. Its principle is to take a sufficiently large number of photographs at a certain interval, be it a second or a whole day. Then these photos are joined together and played at the frame rate of your choice (24, 25, 30, etc.).

What other advantages do we get besides a specific picture?
The first is a large video resolution equal to your picture.
The second is flexible color processing as you work with either 8-bit JPEG or, much better, uncompressed RAW.

Personally, at one time, this genre seemed ideal for creating a series of videos. "Guide to the Northern Capital", which were gladly accepted by several travel portals.

And before starting the main topic of today's issue, I will give my recommendations.

Recommendations for setting up the camera for shooting a time-lapse:
-turn off all camera stabilization,
-use mode “M”,
-use only manual focus,
-set manual white balance,
-set the shutter speed from 1/50 or more,
- aperture: to taste,
-Exposure: -0.5 or lower on a sunny day,
-shooting format - RAW.

Time Lapse Tips:
-install the camera on a stationary surface,
- turn off the monitor to save battery power,
- for the “miniature” effect, the shutter speed should be faster than 1/100,
- for day-night shooting, set the mode to “S” or “A”,
-use ND filter for marco time-lapse.

Time-lapse editing guidelines:
-In post-processing, use electronic zoom or offset to simulate a camera slide,
-on editing, the duration of each shot must be equal to 2 frames or one to one with the FPS of the project,
-do color correction separately for the photo, not the video,
-align exposure without loss useful information in shadows and highlights.

Today I want to consider how mobile devices far or close in this type of shooting from semi-professional cameras.

And for this, I downloaded more than 10 time-lapse applications to my smartphone. I even had to buy the Pro version. But we will only talk about a few. By default, we will assume that the applications from the downloaded, which I did not name, I simply did not like.

Before getting into the application, I'll tell you what options are required for a successful time-lapse.
The main requirement is the ability to manually configure, namely:
-completely manual exposure adjustment,
- manual manual white balance,
-manual focusing.
Most importantly, I don't want the app to force me to just the composited video. I want to be able to work with snapshots.

So, the first application.

It looks good enough and intuitive. It is possible to select the resolution of the final video, frame rate, several effects, set manual focus, adjust the white balance and exposure compensation.
Shutter speed and ISO are not separately set (this is a minus).

Also, at the end of the shooting, you are only given a video file. I did not find a library for storing images, even after purchasing the paid version.
Not yet upset stable work... Sometimes, when choosing certain functions, the application simply turned off. Checked on OnePlus 3 and Sony ericsson... And there, and there - the situation is similar.
Taking into account the money spent and the ambiguous performance of the application, my rating is 6/10.

Another application is called Time lapse (produced by Toro).
The application is even too simplified, in my opinion, but for those who do not want to bother too much in the settings, it is quite suitable.
There are only three parameters: interval, photo limit and resolution. After shooting, you can select the frame rate and video resolution up to 1080p.
There is no gallery with photos again.
For reliable work, simplicity and lack of costs, the score is also 6/10.


The next app is from trila (Droid). Free and consists of one button, well, absolutely for the lazy.
I bet 4/10.

The remaining applications are as simple as two pennies and they did not have what I am personally looking for.

I want to focus on the application Lapse it pro.

It turned out to be the closest to my requirements.

Let's take a walk through the menu.

Classically, we can set the shooting interval, interval metering units, shooting limitation, resolution, focus, turn on the shutter sound, adjust the screen brightness and many other interesting, but slightly useless sweets. A nice bonus is the compression format. And you can also set absolutely any frame rate, not just the standard ones: 24, 25, 30, etc.

In addition, you can adjust everything in the main menu just before you start shooting. And finally, there is the ISO installation.

And the main feature - at the bottom there is the Material Camera menu, by clicking which, the application added to me the photo capabilities of the smartphone camera, namely the RAW format.

Now let's test it.

After shooting, we can still adjust various parameters video, as if we had few functions before. Well, okay, a lot is not a little.

Now we have the video file itself and - most importantly - the project with photos.

There are many ways to send them to a computer and already at home to edit video not in 1080p with the wild compression of the codec that a smartphone provides, but to work with the full resolution of the image.
Why is it so important to have a larger size? Well, at least for the programmed shift of the image due to the crop. So to speak, imitation of camera movement. And if it is embellished with additional lenses, then the video will become even more interesting.

However, I noticed something that upset me to the core. Even though I chose RAW, the application still rendered JPEG.

But, even despite this, this application is an order of magnitude better than the rest downloaded and tested.

My rating is 8/10.

Well, for myself personally, I realized that if your smartphone can shoot RAW and has full manual settings, and the application deprives you of this, then for best quality will have to do everything the old fashioned way.

Friends, if you could find a better time-lapse app, please share in the comments.

Time laps is a unique technique at the intersection of photography and video. A characteristic feature of time-lapse video is the acceleration of the ongoing processes. Such videos fascinate viewers with their beauty, so this technique is often used in full-length films. For example, to show how day changes to night, clouds move across the sky, cars drive along the street. You can add a similar effect to your project: for this you just need to download VIDEO MONTAGE. Read on to find out all the secrets to making timelapse videos!

There are two main methods for filming timelapse. The easiest is to speed up the video. First, you need to record a long video, then load it into the video editor and increase the speed several times.

There is also another way to do timelapse. It is more complex, but interesting. Here the video is assembled from hundreds or thousands of photos. Of course, a reasonable question may arise: why complicate your life so much, if you can just speed up the video you have shot? There are several main reasons for this:

  • Quality. If you work with photos, you will get a better time-lapse as a result. However, there is an important nuance: before shooting, you definitely need to set the maximum resolution in the settings.
  • Saving space. If you shoot for several hours in 4K resolution, you will need a lot of space on your memory card for these files. Now imagine how long it will take to process such materials when accelerating! The photo is much easier. Consequently, they will also be processed in a video editor much faster than videos.
  • Finally, it's just interesting... Agree, there is some magic in turning ordinary pictures into a full-fledged video or even a movie. Don't miss the opportunity to participate in such a project! Indeed, in this case, you will improve your skills.
  • Take a sturdy tripod. The camera should not move and “shake”, this will ruin the whole effect.
  • Choose a memory card with plenty of free space.
  • If you plan on working for many hours, be sure to bring a spare battery.

Have you chosen the first method? Mount the camera on a tripod and press REC. It takes at least 15 minutes of footage to create a 10-second time-lapse video. Be prepared to be patient. When choosing the second method, you need to do new photo every 5 seconds. Take advantage of the time-lapse function, which is included in almost all modern cameras. It is also advisable to switch the camera to manual mode in advance. In this case, you will be able to achieve frames with the same lighting and color. Adjust white balance manually so the colors are the same. Also, be sure to adjust the focus so that the picture is not blurry. The shutter speed and the interval between shots should remain in the ratio of 2 to 1. If the interval is 4 seconds, then set the shutter speed to 2 seconds, and so on.

Attach the camera to a tripod and shoot the entire required material

If you work during the day on a sunny day, it is better to cover the technique with an opaque or white cloth, as the picture will start to make a lot of noise when heated. If you're shooting late in the evening, use slow exposure compensation. Perfectly beautiful picture for a time-lapse is obtained in the "golden hour". This is the first hour after sunrise and the last hour before sunset. The luminary is in the sky as low as possible, spreading diffused and soft light. A masterpiece is guaranteed to you.

How to make a time-lapse: working in the editor

Shooting a time-lapse is half the battle. After that, you need to bring the source material to mind. To do this, you need a video editing program. Video Montage will cope with this task perfectly, as it has all the necessary functions. Let's find out how to edit a video in this program!

From regular video to timelaps

If you chose the first method, then you will need to speed up the footage. Run the Video Montage program and create new project... To begin with, the video editor will offer you to choose the aspect ratio: 16 by 9, 4 by 3, or your own format. If necessary, the proportions can be set automatically. Next, upload the captured video source to the timeline.

Add video to timeline

The entire process of processing material in the editor is divided into five tabs: "Add", "Edit", "Transitions", "Music" and "Create". You can speed up the video in the "Edit" section of the "Speed" tab. Just select from the proposed options how many times you need to increase the speed, or adjust everything using the slider manually. Maximum video can be made three times faster. This is enough to create a quality time-lapse. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in how to make a time-lapse from a video. The main thing is to use convenient and high-quality software.

Go to the "Speed" tab and configure the video playback

Turning photos into time lapse

All photos should be previewed and processed if necessary. This can be done in any photo editor or directly in the Video Montage program (the "Edit"\u003e "Improvements" tab). Please note: the pictures should not differ much from each other visually. If one frame is too colorful for you, and the other is not, it will immediately catch your eye.

When the processing is complete, go to the time-lapse program. Create a new project and add all photos to the timeline. Next, adjust the time for displaying images on the screen. To do this, go to Edit\u003e Photo Duration. We set the value for how long the image should remain on the screen. The minimum available is 1 second. Adjust the duration of the other shots in the same way.

Add photos to the timeline and customize their duration

Add effects to the images as needed. In the tab of the same name of the Video Montage program, you will find a huge number of available filters. You can also use manual adjustments by adding lint or scratches, shaking, horizontal or vertical stripes, toning, vignetting, etc.

If you wish, you can improve the quality of videos and photos in the program

When working, pay special attention to the selection of musical accompaniment. It will allow you to create the appropriate mood. It is difficult to imagine a high-quality time-lapse without sound, but make sure that the dynamics match the picture. In the Video Editing program, you can add a background melody in the "Music" section. Here you can load a track from a catalog or from a PC and adjust its volume.

Be sure to add background music to make the video more interesting.

Saving the result

  • AVI file (for viewing on a personal computer).
  • Writing to disk;
  • HD (high definition picture);
  • For devices (for players, set-top boxes and phones);
  • Other formats (MP4, MPG and so on);
  • For publishing on the Internet.

Save the video in the format you need

In the latter case, you can choose exactly where you plan to post the video: on YouTube, in social network VKontakte, Odnoklassniki, Facebook or on its official website. Learn new techniques with the Video Montage program! Download the video editor right now from our site and install it on your computer. You can effectively speed up or slow down any videos, improve their quality and much more.

Timelapse is probably one of the most interesting genres of photography. In the sense that if you are a photographer, then you become a videographer and vice versa. It is a combination of skills to take high-quality images, process them and compose them into a coherent material. And today we're going to talk about processing and layout and quite a bit about the former.

I was repeatedly asked to do this video tutorial after the video about shooting timelapse, which was released on our channel a little over a year ago. There were cases when they sent me material and asked - Ilya, something is wrong with the picture. So this is a story about how I myself work with time-lapse images.

Introduction.
Quite a lot of people mistakenly believe that for a good time-lapse it is enough to turn on the application in the camera, and even convert it right in the carcass. This will only work for home viewing or blogging and, frankly, does not teach anything. But this is a very laborious process. For example, for this episode I had to make long excursions several times and simultaneously freeze everything I could.

I'll make a reservation right away that the photo processing scheme strongly depends on its content. Daytime photography of architecture is one style, night photography is another, nature is the third, people are the fourth, and so on.

It is just as important how correct the image you see on the monitor is. Therefore, I recommend that you think about what you are looking at your photos. I speak from personal experience, because there were unpleasant situations when everything had to be redone due to incorrect images and artifacts that I simply could not see. So I switched to work on a 27-inch professional monitor with 10-bit UHD resolution. Good coverage of sRGB and Rec709 color spaces is important to me, as well as Adobe RGB, in which I work most often. This way I can be sure even before the final gluing that everything will be at least acceptable. I am using a professional monitor BenQ SW271, which greatly simplifies my work.

By the way, I shot the material itself in the classical way on a SLR camera with an external remote control for interval shooting.
At the end of the video, all the camera settings are described when shooting different scenes.

Photo processing in Lightroom.

I made a small series of shots in the city, and on its example I will show how to prepare them for further gluing.
Let's import the photo into Lightroom.

By the way, two thoughts came to mind.
The first is that most of you will most likely watch this video on a smartphone, tablet, 13 or 15-inch laptop, and the toolbar on the right will be simply unreadable. So for your convenience, I will compress Lightroom and record from part of the screen.

And the second thought is that it is worth taking a photo of the sunset. Everyone loves him, and I am often asked: how to make a time-lapse of this phenomenon so that at the end there is no stupid black screen? And I still know one of the ways without using the trendy LR Timelapse.
First of all, we select the starting fragment.

This photo will be the beginning of my video. As you can imagine, the essence of the sunset timelapse is the sun, sky and lights of cars or city.
All shots were taken in RAW format, this is not even discussed, and the camera was exposed to the Adobe RGB color space, which gives a wider color gamut, especially in the blue spectrum.

And before you start the so-called grading, that is, painting and giving mood, you need to bring the picture to the correct exposure, guided by the schedule, to analyze the useful content and determine the excess.

We look at the histogram, and click the triangle in its right corner, so we will see overexposure. The only overexposure here is the sun, and in general the frame is absolutely correct in terms of exposure: the graph is not pressed either to the left or to the right.

I see that the horizon is uneven, let's fix it.

Hold down the alt key and move the sliders for Highlights, Shadows and so on. We will see at some point - we have overexposure or a dip in the shadows.

This is how we brought the image to medium quality. Yes, it is not very photographic, but it is more correct from the point of view of analysis.

We pass to the next block. This is the Presence panel, where we adjust the sharpness (aka hardness), saturation and hue. And here do not overdo it with sharpness, this is the first mistake of a beginner. If you overdo it, you will get a rippling mess when gluing. You can work more boldly with saturation, but not to the limit.

Do not hesitate to zoom the image in dark and transition areas to analyze the presence of artifacts. On a large monitor, of course, everything is clearly visible, but even here I would rather zoom in and double-check.

Now attention, the second very important point.

Time-lapse is almost always shot at the maximum closed aperture and you understand that such a problem as spots is possible. Before shooting, I cleaned and checked the matrix, but when changing optics, anyway, some kind of byaka flew in, so I have to clean it.

Do the cleaning using a small stamp, and preferably take a clone nearby, otherwise you will get a spotted dance when gluing.

Now let's apply a gradient to emphasize the sky even more.

Next, let's slightly refine the image of the tone curve, glancing at the histogram. Remember, the correct shot has the shape of a kind of hill, where the colors are clearly delineated? If it is of a different type, then you simply lost some of the information.

Notice how I stretch the histogram so that the foot of the hill is at the left and right edges.

Correct the temperatures a little - I want the snow to be slightly purple. But without fanaticism. So, the graph is finally shown in the correct form, and the sky and snow are separated and we do not have a monolithic ginger image. We achieved the color contrast and then there were minor tweaks.

Go to the Split Toning item, that is, the separation of light and dark tones. And here I want to work with the shadows and change their temperature a little more.

I really love turquoise or cyan color and I want the shadows to acquire this shade, but I will expose very little saturation.

Zoom in again and see if there are artifacts. I can see that colored flakes have appeared on the snow. This needs to be fixed.

The first and obvious way is the Detail block, where I highly recommend disabling Sharpening and forgetting about it like a nightmare. But raise the Noise Reduction by a few points until the color noise disappears.

I noticed some more small spots, so I'll clean them up and you can already compare our pictures before and after.

Look, the old photo was like a purple haze, and the new one has clear contrasting borders.

The final block is the hue, lightness and saturation adjustments for the colors. And here, be especially careful. This is where all the artifacts come from, especially if the camera shoots in 12 bits.

I use this block only to level out existing artifacts, and not to enhance a single color. You can do whatever you want for a photo, but we will edit the frames in a video and this must always be kept in mind.

See, the snow still has light purple and purple flakes of color. What am I doing? I just turn them into minus, pull the sliders of the corresponding colors into minus, until the snow becomes conditionally monochromatic.

And just such moments are poorly visible on 8-bit monitors, and, as a result, you will get a scattered picture, many other artifacts that can randomly emerge both when sent to editing and when gluing.

As you can imagine, I deliberately pulled out many artifacts so that even when watching on Youtube you could see what I am talking about and how to fix it.

Our shot is ready!

Go to Library

If possible, you can immediately switch the screen to the sRGB color space and check the picture in it before export

We open the editing program, in my case it is Final Cut X, but you can use Premeiere, Vegas, etc.

We import the pictures and transfer them to the timeline. Press the right button and select "change duration".

We put "1". This means that one shot corresponds to one frame.
Select everything and create a composited clip, that is, all images become a single file on the timeline.

Now a question that is very often asked: how to shoot a sunset, so that at the end you don't get just a night. After all, if the camera is given aperture or shutter speed priority, then there will still be moments of exposure jumps.
If you have an LR Timelapse app, it will automatically analyze and align it all.

But I will show you a method when you have completely set up the camera in the "M" mode and initially nothing jumps in the illumination.

Look, our first fragment at the end goes completely into darkness. Not very spectacular, but someone else touched the tripod a couple of times and the picture jerked noticeably.

First to the first problem - darkness in the finale. Go back to Lightroom and open the very last frame and adjust the exposure as you would like to complete the video clip.

Now we save the settings as a preset.

Go to the library, open the first frame and apply our preset from the last frame. Do not be alarmed that it is overexposed, this is normal.

We throw the pictures into the editing and perform all the same actions as for the previous batch. Duration - one frame for a snapshot and compose it into a single clip.

Now carefully.

At the bottom we put the first clip, where the ending is completely dark, and on top of the second clip, where the beginning is with the recalculation, and the end is as we want.

Open the tools and set the transparency of the top clip from zero to one hundred.

Thus, we first see the first video, which smoothly transitions into the second.

Let's compare:

Finishing touch.

Let's make a crop, add curtains for a cinematic effect, but this is my personal preference. Let's add stabilization to neutralize the dash in the middle. And here's our final snippet.

Now you can do everything, too, for other pictures. Remember that the photo becomes a video and you need to track all the artifacts while processing the starting image. After all, what is not obvious in statics floats in dynamics immediately.

Time-lapse is one of the most interesting techniques for capturing long-running processes for a fairly quick view on the screen. These processes include the opening of a flower, sunrise and sunset, the movement of people and cars, and construction. Timelapse allows you to "speed up" two hours of shooting to one minute. The result is, of course, impressive ...

Time-Lapse is a slow-motion motion picture or photograph with an exact number of frames per minute, which are then combined into one video sequence.
Previously, time-lapse was called time-lapse or time-lapse shooting, it was considered very difficult. It was first used by French filmmaker Marie-Georges-Jean Mellier in Carrefour De L "Opera" in 1897. Today, in an age of rapid development of digital technology, this technique has become much more accessible and easier. If you know a few simple rules, make a good time-lapse even a beginner can.

Work in manual mode

For this:

  1. Set the camera to "M" (fully manual) mode, then your shots will be the same in colors, lighting, and so on;
  2. Set the lens to “MF” (manual focus mode) and focus on the object you want, then the camera will not be able to change the focus point itself and you will avoid distortion in the picture. Or use completely manual lensthen you will get rid of the problem with the diaphragm in the future;
  3. Set the manual white balance so that the colors in all images are equalized, or shoot in RAW, then you can set the white balance during the subsequent processing of photos or directly when stitching the images into a video sequence;
  4. Disable the stabilizer on the camera and lens.

You will need

  1. Sturdy tripod. A reliable tripod like the Manfrotto 55RC is a must for a good time-lapse. If it is not stable enough, even the slightest tremor can ruin all your efforts. If you don't have one, which is a very expensive pleasure, then you will have to load your light tripod. Surely there is a special hook on the bottom of it? You can hang the load there; a women's bag with a full "ammunition" will do;
  2. Blank memory card. You may have to take over a thousand RAW images, and even getting by with regular JPEGs will take a lot of memory;
  3. Remote control or laptop connected to the camera. They are used to ensure that there is not the slightest hesitation when manually releasing the shutter, so it is better to rely on modern technology.

About shutter speed and aperture

The shutter-to-frame ratio should be 2/1, that is, if the shutter speed is 2 seconds, the shutter interval should be 4 seconds.
Many professionals advise shooting in A (aperture priority) mode and metering the entire frame, as you will inevitably encounter flicker - brightness flickering from frame to frame. That is, if the camera calculated 1/60 of a second for one frame, and then the sun came out from behind the clouds and the shutter speed became 1/1000 of a second, then in the final video you will have light and dark frames in a row and the overall image will flicker. Therefore, it is recommended to use manual mode and shoot each frame with the same parameters.

Now about the shutter speed and the interval between frames. As mentioned earlier, it is best if the shutter speed is twice as fast as the interval between shutter releases. In other words, if the interval is 4 seconds, then the shutter speed must be set to 2 seconds. This is optional, but highly desirable and is due to the fact that movie cameras have a device called an obturator. This is the name of a disk, one sector of which is transparent. It rotates at a speed of 24 revolutions per second and every half a revolution opens access to light on the film, that is, it is exposed for 1 / 48th of a second at a speed of 24 frames per second. With this shutter speed, fast moving objects are "blurred", but we perceive it naturally. If it is larger, then the video sequence of the time-lapse will become "jerky", therefore, to ensure its smoothness, you need to set the shutter speed twice as fast as the time between shutter operations.

Approximate frame intervals:

Fast clouds: 1–2 seconds;
- slow clouds: up to 10 seconds;
- starry sky: 20-30 seconds, pause - 1 second.

You should not take this as a law, the camera settings can be set correctly only at the shooting location, because they depend on a variety of light sources, both natural (sun, moon, sky) and artificial (lanterns, headlights of cars).

About photosensitivity

Don't set the ISO value higher than your camera allows. By the way, cameras are more noisy when heated, so if you are shooting a time-lapse in the sun, you can cover it and the lens with a white or reflective opaque cloth. For example, for the Canon 5D Mark II, the ISO must be less than 3200.

A few more useful little things:

Use a lens hood to minimize glare;
- to save battery power, turn off the playback function after shooting;
- when shooting late in the evening, closer to the night, introduce slow exposure compensation.

Shooting in the early morning, afternoon and evening

When shooting during the day, when the camera offers a shutter speed of 1 / 1000th of a second, it is better to use shading filters, similar in design to polarizing filters. They increase the luminous flux up to ND 400, depending on the rotation relative to themselves. If you want to shoot a time-lapse in the early morning, at dawn, or in the evening, at sunset, remember the so-called "golden hour". This is the first hour after sunrise and the last one before sunset, although the exact duration varies with the time of year. This time frame, when the sun is low in the sky, producing soft, diffused light, is a great time to take a time-lapse shot.

Check all settings again before shooting:

  • fully manual mode on the camera;
  • manual focusing mode on the lens;
  • disabled stabilizer on the camera and lens;
  • manual white balance;
  • RAW / JPEG;
  • charged battery;
  • free space on the memory card.

If everything is ready, or so it seems to you, take 10-15 test shots, then quickly scroll through them, and if everything suits you, then start shooting, if not, then go over this text and see what you forgot to do or did not So.

After you have filmed all the material, a reasonable question arises: what to do with it? not manually insert all frames into Windows Movie Maker? There are many programs for this, I personally advise you Sony Vegas, but before that it is better to batch process photos in Photoshop (insert the link to the tutorial), because Sony Vegas will not allow you to experiment with colors and light in the same way as the same “Photoshop ".

Create a time-lapse in Photoshop

Step 1. Create a new project

In the "File" menu, select "New ..." and set the settings for our video sequence. The resolution is better to take HD 1920 × 1080 24 p.

Step 2. Set the step between photos

In the "Options" menu, select "Properties", then go to the "Edit" tab and in the "New still image length" section, set the time interval between the photos. I personally use 0.060 to create time lapses, which is about 24 frames per second.
You probably don't need smooth transitions, but, just in case, they are hidden under the "Automatically overlap multiple selected media when added" checkbox.

Step 3. Add photos to the timeline

Since your photos are already numbered in the desired order, you just need to transfer them from the Project Data or Explorer window to the timeline, and they will form a finished video sequence.

Step 4. Render

Many people wonder: why do their videos weigh so much after processing in Sony Vegas? The answer to this question is quite simple: you need to choose the appropriate codecs, and the size of your videos will be reduced from several gigabytes to 100-200 megabytes.

So, in the "File" menu, select "Calculate as ...", in the "Save as ..." column, mark "Windows media video v11 (wmv)", and in the "Template" column - "6.4 Mbps HD 1080-24 p video ". The "Custom ..." button allows you to select codecs for audio. After that, press the "Save" button and wait for the end of the render.

If the computer does not have enough random access memory for processing, then I advise you to start by restarting your computer by disabling the startup programs, or lowering the quality of the output video by lowering the bitrate or resolution to 720p.

See the selection and be sure to try your hand at this unique technique!

Follow our news! Good luck to you!

What is a time-lapse and how does it work

To begin with, what is time-lapse photography, or, as it was called before, time-lapse photography. The camera normally takes a certain number of frames per second of natural time, that is, the time in which we live and which we feel. My
can shoot (depending on the resolution, that is, on the size of the frame), in two different modes: at a speed of 30 frames per second and 60 frames per second (real time, of course). The more frames per second a video has, the smoother and less jagged the transition between frames in the video will be, the easier it will be for the brain to perceive these series of pictures as a single continuous process. If you are thinking about which is better - 60 or 30 frames per second, I will say that for almost a hundred years, film was shot at a speed of 24 frames per second.
So that's it. Time-lapse is the formation of a second of a video from the same, say, thirty frames, but taken not in real time, but with a certain interval in it. So, if you set 1 sec in the TL Video settings, then the camera will take a frame every second, having typed thirty frames into the buffer, it will create 1 second of a video (30 seconds will pass in real time), and a time-lapse video with a length of one minute will contain 60x30 \u003d 1800 frames, which took (1 frame every second) 1800 seconds, that is, 30 minutes of real time.

If you shoot a time-lapse with TL Video 2 sec settings, then a one-minute video will be filmed in one hour of real time. Accordingly, the longer the interval between frames in a time-lapse, the more real time it will take to shoot it. I will attach a plate below - it shows that an hour-long video with a frame per minute frequency needs to be filmed for 1800 hours. This is 75 days, if that.

frame
time-lapse
every
... sec
1 2 3 4 5 10 15 20 25 30 45 60
0,5 0:15:00 0:30:00 0:45:00 1:00:00 1:15:00 2:30:00 3:45:00 5:00:00 6:15:00 7:30:00 11:15:00 15:00:00
1 0:30:00 1:00:00 1:30:00 2:00:00 2:30:00 5:00:00 7:30:00 10:00:00 12:30:00 15:00:00 22:30:00 30:00:00
2 1:00:00 2:00:00 3:00:00 4:00:00 5:00:00 10:00:00 15:00:00 20:00:00 25:00:00 30:00:00 45:00:00 60:00:00
3 1:30:00 3:00:00 4:30:00 6:00:00 7:30:00 15:00:00 22:30:00 30:00:00 37:30:00 45:00:00 67:30:00 90:00:00
4 2:00:00 4:00:00 6:00:00 8:00:00 10:00:00 20:00:00 30:00:00 40:00:00 50:00:00 60:00:00 90:00:00 120:00:00
5 2:30:00 5:00:00 7:30:00 10:00:00 12:30:00 25:00:00 37:30:00 50:00:00 62:30:00 75:00:00 112:30:00 150:00:00
10 5:00:00 10:00:00 15:00:00 20:00:00 25:00:00 50:00:00 75:00:00 100:00:00 125:00:00 150:00:00 225:00:00 300:00:00
15 7:30:00 15:00:00 22:30:00 30:00:00 37:30:00 75:00:00 112:30:00 150:00:00 187:30:00 225:00:00 337:30:00 450:00:00
20 10:00:00 20:00:00 30:00:00 40:00:00 50:00:00 100:00:00 150:00:00 200:00:00 250:00:00 300:00:00 450:00:00 600:00:00
30 15:00:00 30:00:00 45:00:00 60:00:00 75:00:00 150:00:00 225:00:00 300:00:00 375:00:00 450:00:00 675:00:00 900:00:00
60 30:00:00 60:00:00 90:00:00 120:00:00 150:00:00 300:00:00 450:00:00 600:00:00 750:00:00 900:00:00 1350:00:00 1800:00:00

(note to the tables: at the intersection of duration and frequency - time in hh: mm: ss mode; 25:00:00 is a full day and one more hour of real time)

It can also be seen from the table that there are pairs of equal amounts of time spent shooting.
For example: for an hour of shooting, the "frame every two seconds" mode will give a minute of video. And the same shooting time in frame per second mode will give two minutes of video. That is, the less often the camera takes shots, the faster the picture on the screen changes.

Below is another table for shooting modes with a frequency of 60 frames / sec (this is in the video quality settings;).

frame
time-lapse
every
... sec		 total duration of time-lapse video, minutes
1 2 3 4 5 10 15 20 25 30 45 60
0,5 0:30:00 1:00:00 1:30:00 2:00:00 2:30:00 5:00:00 7:30:00 10:00:00 12:30:00 15:00:00 22:30:00 30:00:00
1 1:00:00 2:00:00 3:00:00 4:00:00 5:00:00 10:00:00 15:00:00 20:00:00 25:00:00 30:00:00 45:00:00 60:00:00
2 2:00:00 4:00:00 6:00:00 8:00:00 10:00:00 20:00:00 30:00:00 40:00:00 50:00:00 60:00:00 90:00:00 120:00:00
3 3:00:00 6:00:00 9:00:00 12:00:00 15:00:00 30:00:00 45:00:00 60:00:00 75:00:00 90:00:00 135:00:00 180:00:00
4 4:00:00 8:00:00 12:00:00 16:00:00 20:00:00 40:00:00 60:00:00 80:00:00 100:00:00 120:00:00 180:00:00 240:00:00
5 5:00:00 10:00:00 15:00:00 20:00:00 25:00:00 50:00:00 75:00:00 100:00:00 125:00:00 150:00:00 225:00:00 300:00:00
10 10:00:00 20:00:00 30:00:00 40:00:00 50:00:00 100:00:00 150:00:00 200:00:00 250:00:00 300:00:00 450:00:00 600:00:00
15 15:00:00 30:00:00 45:00:00 60:00:00 75:00:00 150:00:00 225:00:00 300:00:00 375:00:00 450:00:00 675:00:00 900:00:00
20 20:00:00 40:00:00 60:00:00 80:00:00 100:00:00 200:00:00 300:00:00 400:00:00 500:00:00 600:00:00 900:00:00 1200:00:00
30 30:00:00 60:00:00 90:00:00 120:00:00 150:00:00 300:00:00 450:00:00 600:00:00 750:00:00 900:00:00 1350:00:00 1800:00:00
60 60:00:00 120:00:00 180:00:00 240:00:00 300:00:00 600:00:00 900:00:00 1200:00:00 1500:00:00 1800:00:00 2700:00:00 3600:00:00

It can be seen that an hour-long video at a speed of 1 frame / minute will be filmed in five months. If you decide to shoot with these settings, stock up on power banks, food, water and warm clothes. Well, do not forget to leave links to the time-lapse video you shot in the comments!

Here is an example of a time-lapse video I shot (frequency - frame / 500ms, that is, a frame every half a second. Fifteen minutes in the wind and cold. If I had such a sign before filming, I don't even know if I would shoot it). And now about slowmo (slow-mo, slow motion) - video shooting with a slow motion effect