Seam with a rubber seam in the hem. Types of seams. Hem with open cut

Various methods are used for processing garment parts and their joining. When threading parts and their parts, machine or hand stitches are used. Stitch - a repeating element of the thread stitching between the needle punctures (fig. 56). A sequential row of stitches forms a stitch. The seam - the place where two or more parts are joined by machine stitching.

The parts are connected to each other with seams of different widths. The seam width is the distance from the cuts of the part to the line (fig. 57). Slice - the contour of the cut out part. All machine seams are classified according to their purpose (fig. 58).

Figure: 56. Forming a machine stitch

Figure: 57. Machine seam

Figure: 58. Types of machine seams

Joint seams are characterized by the fact that the parts to be joined lie on either side of the seam. The most common and simplest of the connecting seams is the stitch (fig. 59). To complete it, the parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are equalized and grinded on the machine.

Figure: 59. Stitch seam

The hem seam belongs to the hem seam (fig. 60). It is used to decorate the edge of parts by bending the cuts of the part itself.

Figure: 60. Hem seam

Sewing operations in the manufacture of any product are performed according to certain rules. They include different types of work: manual, machine, wet-heat. For their technologically correct implementation, it is necessary to know the special terminology, to comply with certain technical conditions.

Handicraft

When doing manual work, the needle is held with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and its ear should rest against the thimble worn on the middle finger (Fig. 63). Place your left hand on the fabric at the beginning of the seam, with your fingers pressing the fabric against the table.

Figure: 63. The correct position of the needle in the hand

Machine works

When performing machine work, the following requirements must be observed:

1. Check the absence of pins in the parts of the product before performing operations.
2. Select the number of threads, machine needles, stitch frequency in accordance with the thickness and type of fabric, the purpose of the seam.
3. Position the seam allowances to the right of the needle, the product detail to the left.
4. Sew machine bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitching.
5. Line the machine stitch exactly on the marked line.
6. Remove threads from all temporary stitches.

Damp heat works

Before starting work, you should check the degree of heating of the iron.

When performing wet-heat work, the processed area of \u200b\u200bthe product or part is located closer to the working one. Parts or products are moistened and ironed in the direction of the shared thread until completely dry after each machine operation.

There is a special terminology to designate various operations in the garment industry (Table 7).

Table 7.1. Handicraft terminology

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
	Connecting two parts, approximately equal in size, along the marked lines with temporary stitches	Bringing together parts of the belt, etc.
Sweep	Securing the folded edge of a part with temporary stitches	Closing the side and bottom cuts of the apron
Tack	Temporary connection of small parts with large stitches for temporary use	Applying the tape to the product
Sketch out	Temporary joining of two pieces overlaid with temporary stitches	Basting the trim on the apron

Table 7.2. Machine terminology

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
	Thread connection of two or more equal or approximately equal in size parts along the aligned edges	Stitching parts of the product
Stitch	Overlay stitching to secure the folded edge of a part or product	Blind cut apron
To grind	Connection of two or more parts of different sizes	Sewing tape to the product
Customize	Overlapping stitches to join them	Trimming the trim on the apron

Table 7.3. Wet heat terminology

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
Sanforize	Wet-heat treatment of fabric with steam and drying to prevent subsequent shrinkage	Decating fabric before cutting
Iron out	Unfolding seam allowances in different directions and securing them in this position	Ironing the seams
Iron	Laying the edges of the parts on one side and securing them in this position	Ironing seam cuts
Iron	Reducing the thickness of the seam or edge of the product	Iron on seams
Iron out	Removal of fabric jams on individual parts and the product as a whole	Ironing the finished product

Before making a product, you need to master the techniques for making machine seams. Technological maps 8, 9 will help you with this.

Basic terms and concepts

Stitch, stitch, seam, seam width, seam seam, iron-on seam

Questions and tasks

1. What is called a stitch? line? seam?
2. How are seams distinguished by their purpose?
3. How to determine the seam width?
4. What is the difference between stitch seams and edge seams?
5. What do you think is the difference in the manufacture of a seam and a hem seam?
6. What do the terms “sweep”, “sweep”, “grind”, “line up” mean?
7. Find out if there are motorists among your family and friends. Ask them to tell you about their work.

Practical work 8. Making samples of machine seams

1. Examine WPS 8, 9.
2. Prepare the classroom for work.
3. Carry out samples of machine seams according to the flow charts.
4. Check the correct manufacturing of machine seam samples.
5. Get your classroom in order.

Technological map 8. Production of samples of grout seams

Tools, Materials, and Utensils: 8? 10 cm, scissors, cotton thread No. 40 (50), bobbin, hand needle, pins, needle case, thimble, tailor's chalk (soap), ruler.

1. Prepare 4 pieces of fabric measuring 8x10 cm.
2. Set aside 1 cm from the cut with a ruler and mark with chalk or soap.
3. Draw a straight line through the points parallel to the cut of the fabric using a ruler.
4. Fold and split in two parts with the right sides inward, aligning the cuts.
5. Sweep and grind the details. Remember! The distance between the stitches should be 0.1 cm. Bartacks should be made at the beginning and end of the sewing.
6. Remove the bunching threads.
7. Carry out wet heat treatment; iron the seam on one sample and press on the other.

Check yourself! The joint width is uniform along the entire length; the line is straight; bartacks are made; wet heat treatment is done carefully.

Technological map 9. Manufacturing of bend seam samples

Tools, materials and accessories: 8x10 cm cotton fabric scraps, cotton threads No. 40 (50), bobbin, scissors, hand needle, pins, needle bar, thimble, tailor's chalk (soap), ruler.

Open hem hem

1. Prepare 1 piece 8x10 cm in size.
2. Set aside 1 cm from the upper cut of the part and draw a line with a ruler.
3. Wrap the cut of the part on the wrong side by 1 cm along the marked line and stab.
4. Sweep, the width of the seam is 0.5 cm from the fold.
5. Stitch, keeping the distance from the basting stitch - 0.1 cm. Remember! Bartacks must be made at the beginning and end of the stitching.
6. Remove tangle-free threads.
7. Press on the seam.

Check yourself!

Closed hem hem

1. Prepare 1 piece 8x10 cm in size (on the base).
2. Place the fabric with the wrong side on the table, with the front side towards you.
3. Set aside 1 cm from the top cut and draw a line with a ruler.
4. Set aside 1 cm from the chalk line and draw a line parallel to the cut.
5. Fold the cut of the part to the wrong side by 1 cm and sweep (or iron).
6. Wrap and stab again the fold of the part by 1 cm.
7. Sweep, the width of the seam is 0.3 cm from the inner fold.
8. Stitch, the width of the seam is 0.1-0.2 cm from the inner fold.
9. Remove tangle-free threads.
10. Press on the seam.

Check yourself! The joint width is uniform along the entire length; the line is straight; bartacks are made; the seams are neatly ironed.

Then let's go ahead and talk about machine edge seams!

Machine edge seams are intended for processing the edges of parts and the bottom of the product. They are subdivided into edging and facing. I suggest you get acquainted with the most common of them.

Edging

Open cut hem seam - is used to design cuts of outerwear parts (bottom of the product, inner cuts of the hem ...), as well as edging of seams (in products without lining). Edging width - by model. The distance from the edging cut to the edging line is 0.3 - 0.7 cm.

Closed-cut edging- used for edging the cuts of parts (neckline, armholes, bottom of the product in light clothing ...) The width of the edging is also according to the model. The distance from the closed edge of the edging to the line is 0.1 - 0.3 cm.

Facing

Piping seam - we use when turning sides, valves, collars. The width of the turning seam is 0.5 - 0.8 cm. The seam sections must be trimmed: one is smaller than the other by 0.2 - 0.7 cm. The edge size is from 0.1 - 0.4 cm. The distance from the edge of the edge to the line is by models.

Split seam - we use it to process the sides at the bend of the lapel. In this case, when basting a seam, place the folds of the parts at the same level.

Frame seam - used mainly in the manufacture of facing loops and welt pockets. The width of the frame for loops is 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The width of the seam of the turning is 0.4 - 0.5 cm. The width of the frame for pockets is 0.5 - 0.6 cm, in some details - 1.5 cm. The frame is fixed with a line into the seam of the facing of the facing or at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam of the attaching of the facing from the wrong side of the seam allowance.

Hem with open or overcast hem - we use when processing the bottom of products and sleeves, when overlapping the inner edges of the hem, neck stitching, bottom of the sleeves ... The distance from the hem edge to the line - according to the model (optional). The distance from the cut to the line is 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The distance from the folded edge to the sewing line is 0.1 - 0.3 cm, to the zigzag stitch is 0.2 - 0.7 cm.

Closed hem hem - it is used for overcasting the edges of parts, the bottom of products and sleeves, the bottom of the lining, inner cuts of the hem, facing in the products without lining. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the inner hem is by model. The width of the inner hem is 0.5 - 0.7 cm. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the edge of the inner hem is 0.4 - 0.5 cm. The width of the inner hem is 0.3 - 0.4 cm.

Hem seam with piped cut - serves for covering the bottom of trousers, skirts. Edging width - by model. The distance from the piping seam to the line is 0.1 - 0.3 cm.

Hem seam with stitched lining - it is mainly used for covering the bottom of jackets and jackets. The width of the lining seam is 0.7 - 0.8 cm. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the line is according to the model. The amount of bending of the part is 3 - 4 cm.

These are the interesting seams. I wish you success in mastering them! Try to sew each seam on a piece of fabric for practical skill. And if you have any questions, ask in the comments to this article or at.

© Olga Marizina

Today we will talk about the seams that are made on a sewing machine. Machine seams are divided into 3 main groups - connecting, finishing and edge. Having studied the types of seams, understanding how each of their seams is performed and practicing on the samples, you will ensure that all the seams in the products are perfect.

Connecting seams

Stitch seams are used to grind parts of a product, and are the most common when sewing products. Stitch seams are made using a simple machine stitch. The stitch length depends on the fabric and the purpose of the seam.

Figure: 1. Types of seams - connecting

Edge seam

To form a stitching seam, two parts are folded on the edge with the front sides inward, the cuts are equalized and a machine stitch is laid at a distance of 0.5-2.0 cm from the edge.

The seam can be made either without a fit or with a fit of one of the part being sewn. When sewing a seam
with a fit, the upper part is planted. A rib stitch is used when joining sleeves with armholes, burlap pocket details, as well as when making other stitching seams.

Stitch seam "in ironing"

When performing a stitching seam, the stitching is first performed on the edge, then the allowances are ironed on and both allowances are ironed on one side. A stitch seam is used to join the side, shoulder and other seams of delicate fabrics.

Stitch seam "flattened"

When performing a stitch seam, the stitching is first performed on the edge, then the line is ironed, the allowances are ironed in different directions. The seam is used to join the side, shoulder and other seams of products.

Figure: 2. Types of seams - connecting overhead

Open-cut patch seam

To make an overlay seam with two open cuts, the parts are placed on top of each other with the front sides up and grinded at the same distance from the cuts. Slices are left open. The width of the allowances is 0.2–0.7 cm. This type of seam is used when sewing products from fabric that does not require processing - loden, sheepskin fabrics, parts of gaskets, etc.

Overlay seam with one closed cut

When making a patch seam with one open cut, first perform a seam seam per edge. Then the line is ironed, the seam allowances are ironed onto one of the parts, along which a finishing line is laid on the front side. The distance from seam to stitching depends on the model 0.5–1.0 cm.

If the model provides two finishing lines, then the distance from the sewing line to the first sewing line is 0.2 cm. The distance from the first line to the second is 0.5–0.7 cm.

An overhead seam with one open cut is used to join parts (for example, a yoke with a shelf) when making clothes.

Two-sided patch seam

a) To make an overhead seam with two closed cuts, the edges of the cuts are folded to the wrong side or swept by 0.5-0.7 cm. One edge is placed on the other and a line is laid at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edges This seam is used to sew belts, straps, cuffs, etc.

b) The second way to make an overhead seam with two closed cuts is to bend both cuts by 0.5–0.7 cm, put on the product and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from each edge. Applied when performing the wings.

Figure: 3. Types of seams - connecting underwear

French seam

To perform a French or double seam, the parts are folded with the wrong side inward and grinded with a seam width of 0.3–0.5 cm. Then the detail is turned onto the front side and the seam seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The second line is laid at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the fold so that the cut of the seam is sealed inside. This type of seam is used when sewing clothes from loose and transparent fabrics.

Seam seam

To complete the sewing seam, two parts are folded with the front sides inward, the allowance for one part is cut to 0.5 cm. Then the parts are grinded. The allowances are bent towards the part so as to cover the smaller cut. The cut of the larger allowance is folded over and the second line is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 cm from the folded edge. The width of the sewing seam is 0.7–1.0 cm. The sewing seam is used for the manufacture of bed linen, as well as in products made of fine fabrics without lining, denim.

Lock seam

The seam "in the lock" is similar in design to the seam, but it is made a little differently. First, a patch seam is made with two open cuts. Then each part is turned to cut
and are adjusted according to the allowance. The seam "in the lock" is very durable and is used when sewing products where reinforced stitching is required - work clothes, backpacks, etc.

Figure: 4. Types of seams - finishing

Top seam

To complete the topstitching seam, first perform the seam seam, then the seam allowances are laid out in different directions and on the front side two finishing lines are laid at the same distance from the seamstitching line. The distance from the sewing line to the detaching line depends on the model (0.2-0.5 cm), from the seam cut to the detaching line - 0.2-0.5 cm. The topstitching seam is used to join the sections of products made of materials where the seams are ironed not allowed. For example, in leather goods.

Stitch seam

To complete the seam, mark the required fold width, lay the fold along the markings and stitch. The seam is used to make folds on products.

Open cut stitching stitch

To sew an open-cut stitching seam, it is necessary to grind the part along the markings, turn it to the front side and stitch along the edge. The seam allowance remains open. Such a seam is used when making pockets, yokes, etc.

Closed-cut stitching stitch

It is carried out in the same way as an open-cut topstitching seam, but the seam allowance is cut off and stitched inside with a finishing seam. This seam is used when making pockets, yokes, etc.

Figure: 5. Types of seams - finishing

Applique seam with piping

Insert the edging between the details according to the markup, stitch it in. Place the line at a distance of 0.3–0.4 cm from the edge of the piping. Turn the parts to the front side, lay the allowances on one of the parts, press them down. It is used when finishing seams on the front side of products and on the lining.

Edge seam with piping

Fold the edging with the detail of the product, stitch it. Turn the details to the front side, press them down. This type of seam is used for finishing pockets, collars, bedding, etc.

Figure: 6. Types of seams - edge

Open cut edge hem

When making a seam, the bias tape is attached to the part of the product at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, folded over to the front side and adjusted 1 mm to the right of the edge of the tape. The inner cut remains open and may be covered with a lining or left open, depending on the product.

Closed cut edge seam

When sewing a seam, the bias tape should be stitched to the seam allowance at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, wrap the seam allowance with an inlay, tuck the edge of the tape and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. It is used when edging sections of products without backing.

Tape edging

For edging with tape, tape with closed cuts is used. The width of the tape is determined by the model. To complete the seam, the edge of the part is wrapped with a tape bent in half, a seam is laid along the edge of the tape. It is used for edging pockets, collars and other details.

Border seam "in a frame"

To make a seam, the oblique facing must be bent in half, ironed. Apply the facing along the markings, sew a seam, bend the facing, press it on. This type of seam is used when processing framed pockets.

Split seam

When making a facing seam into a split, first perform a seam seam "on the edge", then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The seam is used when processing belts and other double-sided parts.

Edging seam

When making a facing seam "in a split", first perform a seam seam "on the edge", then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened to form an edging on one side. The seam is used when processing hem, collars, cuffs and other clothing details.

Figure: 7. Types of seams - edge

Overcast seam with closed tape

To make a seam, bend the inlay in half, stitch it to the product detail along the edge at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, turn the inlay to the front side and stitch along the edge. Such a seam can be used for processing the bottom of parts and sleeves, facing pockets, etc.

Double tapered seam

To process a seam, it is necessary to stitch one side of the inlay along the edge of the part, turn the inlay to the front side, bend over the edge and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge of the inlay.

Figure: 8. Narrow edge seams

Moscow seam

To make the allowance, turn it by 0.5 cm and lay a line at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. Cut off the excess allowance, bend the edge of the part by 0.3 mm and lay the second line over the first. The Moscow stitch is used for processing the edges of delicate fabrics - scarves, shawls, etc.

Zigzag

To sew a zig-zag seam, bend the cut and stitch along the edge. The width and frequency of the stitching are determined by the model. Cut off excess stock. Such a seam is used for processing the edges of flounces, sewing knitwear, etc.

Hem seam with open cut

A seam in a hem with an open cut is performed in this way: the cut of the seam is processed with an overlock seam, the allowance is folded over and adjusted.

This seam is used when hemming the bottom and sleeves of products.

Hem seam with closed cut

When sewing a seam in a hem with a closed cut, the cut of the seam is folded by 0.5–0.7 cm. The stitch is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.

Which a novice seamstress needs to know.

Now is the time to familiarize yourself with the fourth sewing lesson, in which we will talk about machine seams.

According to their purpose, machine seams are divided into connecting, edge, decorative and finishing.

Joining seams are used to connect parts;

Edge seams - for processing sections of parts from the wrong side;

Decorative and finishing seams - for decoration of the product.

Closed hem hem

A hem seam with a closed cut is used when hemming the bottom of the product, the edges of sheets, towels, etc. The cut of the part is folded to the wrong side first by 0.5-1 cm, then again by the width of the hem, swept and stitched at a distance of 0.1- 0.2 cm from the first fold.

Open hem seam

An open-cut hem seam is used to process the inner cuts of the edges of the hem, stitches, necklines, armholes, etc. The cut is folded inside out by 0.5 cm and sewn on the wrong side at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold.

Double-cut stitch

A double-hemmed seam (narrow) is used for hemming when a narrow seam is needed, for example, when processing the bottom of flared skirts, edges of frills, flounces.
The cut of the part is bent to the wrong side by 0.3-0.5 cm and sewn at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold, then trimmed to the line, folded again and sewn next to the first line.

Yokes and other details are sewn with a stitching seam. It is performed with two lines: connecting and connecting and finishing. There are two types: with two and one open cut. In the first case, two parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are trimmed and connected with a stitching seam equal to the width of the finishing line plus 1-1.5 cm. The seam is ironed. On the front side, a finishing line is laid at the desired distance. When performing a stitching seam with one closed and one open cut, the parts are folded with the front sides inward so that the cut of one part protrudes beyond the cut of the other by the width of the finishing line plus 0.5 cm, and grind at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut top part. The seam is ironed towards the smaller cut. A finishing line is laid on the front side.

An overhead seam can be with open (a) and one folded (b) cuts. Perform it in one line. An open-cut patch seam is used when joining spacers such as a bead strip. Sections of the parts lying next to each other are superimposed one on top of the other, the line is placed between them. The seam width is 0.1-1 cm.
An overhead seam with one bent cut is used to connect yokes, patch pockets, etc. The cut of one part is folded, swept over, ironed and applied to the front side of the second part along the marked line.
Then they are basted and stitched at a distance from the folded edge provided by the model.

Details Author: Anna Koshkina

Edge seams are used to process the edges of products: bottom of sleeves, bottom of products, i.e. if you need to process the edge of the product, then you can choose one of the proposed seam options. You can design other edge seams yourself.

Hem seams

It is used mainly for light fabrics (in heavy fabrics, this seam can be pressed from the front side), or in the absence of an overlock. With this seam, the cut is well protected from shedding the fabric. They are used to process the bottom of skirts, trousers, shirts, cardigans, jackets, jackets, etc.

Hem seam with open cut (picture # 1).
Such a seam can be used when the fabric does not crumble at all.
Additional explanations if the fabric is crumbling:
Such a seam can be used with additional operations: if our sewn seam is hemmed (line 1 in the figures), then we put it on top of another fabric and sew on this edge (figure 2, line 2). Often this is done when the product is then put on a lining, then it will completely cover all the ugly inside.
Or, for example, such a seam can be used when the knot is thought out in such a way that the cuts are not visible from the inside out, because, for example, this edge is completely sewn on (Figure 3).
Line # 2 can be laid anywhere, you can even clearly in line # 1.
But if you are not laying in line # 1, you need to make sure that your folded cut of fabric is captured by line # 2, so that the cut of the allowance does not come out onto your face.

Hem seam with open cut (with overlock)... First, the cut is overlocked from the face, then tucked in, then ironed on, and then attached. Suitable for heavier fabrics for processing the bottom of skirts, trousers, shirts, cardigans, jackets, etc. In case of frequent use due to wear and tear of the fabric, the cut may be scattered (e.g. a towel).

Option 1. For processing jackets, jackets.

Option 2. For processing jackets, jackets, jackets. When sewing the second line, the bottom is better fixed.

Hem seam with hem... N. o. - warp thread. It is used when edge processing is required in the absence of an overlock. From the inside, the seam will look very elegant and beautiful. It is rarely used and only for light tissues. The edging is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, otherwise the bottom will not be laid out.

By adding a piping layer before sewing on stitch 2, the seam can be applied to heavy fabrics. So, for example, you can process the sides in a coat.