The head of Estel - RBC: We are fighting with women who put on makeup at home. Lev Okhotin: Luxury for love Tour of the Estel factory and business in general with Lev Okhotin, General Director of Estel Professional

How it all began...

Lev Okhotin, the founder and permanent CEO of ESTEL, is a highly qualified chemist, a graduate of the Department of Chemical Technology of Organic Dyes and Phototropic Compounds of the St. Petersburg State Technological Institute. The scope of his scientific interests is the basis of fine organic synthesis, that is, exactly on the basis of which dyes are produced. Before opening his own enterprise, Lev Okhotin worked in a group of managers from one large entrepreneur who invested in various projects and their development. One of these projects was a perfumery and cosmetics factory, which a year later, thanks to the efforts of Lev Okhotin and his colleagues, got out of the crisis. It was then that Lev Okhotin thought about the possibility of creating his own company for the development and production of cosmetic products. There was no question of what to produce, because, as a scientist, the future head of ESTEL was best versed in dyes.

The idea was simple: to develop and put on the market a domestic product of high quality and, of course, domestic prices. Friends were involved in its implementation: Lidia Pavlovna Kovzhina (teacher of the Department of Chemical Technology of Organic Dyes and Phototropic Compounds of the St. laboratories, a pharmaceutical chemist by education). The year 2000 was in the yard, no investments were expected from outside. The initial start-up capital was raised from personal savings. A year later, a series of hair dyes for home use was developed and began to be sold, consisting of 15 shades, called "Estelle" (in the Russian-language spelling).

The brand was quickly noticed not only by buyers, but also by professionals in the beauty industry. In May 2003, Dmitry Ershov (President of the Nevskie Berega Festival), having met Lev Okhotin, tried to infect him with the idea of ​​creating a domestic brand of professional cosmetics. Lev Okhotin waved it off then, but a little later Dmitry Ershov introduced him to Nikolai Ivanovich Kharkovsky (world-class master in hairdressing, winner of the USSR, European and world championships, coach of the USSR national team in hairdressing), who became ESTEL's guide to the world of hairdressing.

As a result, the ESTEL laboratory began research and development of new professional products for itself and by 2005 was able to prepare the first professional line of ESSEX dyes from ESTEL Professional, which consisted of 67 shades, a set of oxygenators, technical shampoos and balms. By the end of the next year, the ESSEX palette had almost doubled in size. The novelty was a success with specialists and their clients, and ESTEL decided to develop and offer salons the widest possible selection of domestic products for hairdressers. What the company did, developing and releasing in record time a huge range of excellent domestic professional cosmetics for hair, and subsequently for the body.

Chronology of the release of professional products ESTEL Professional:
2006

• COLOR OFF emulsion is the first domestic highly effective product for removing persistent (oxidative) dyes from hair.
• The ESSEX color line has been supplemented with the ESSEX LUMEN CONTRAST color gel for contrast highlighting and toning.
• A range of products for permanent hair waving WAVEX.
• CUREX hair care series, including VERSUS WINTER winter hair care products with antistatic effect.
• Hair styling line AIREX.

• A new line of premium DE LUXE professional dyes with a unique chromoenergy complex, including chitosan, chestnut extract and a complex of vitamins.

• New agent for biopermanent waving NIAGARA.
• Professional series for men CUREX GENTLEMAN.
• Special solar line SUNFLOWER for hair protection from ultraviolet rays.

• Professional paint for eyebrows and eyelashes ENIGMA.

2009

• Children's cosmetic line MY ANGEL.
• FITNESS hair and body care series.
• Dye for gray hair DE LUXE SILVER.

• Semi-permanent paint SENSE DE LUXE and premium care line OTIUM, which includes 8 directions: from a series for the care of dyed hair to special therapeutic series for restoring the hair structure.

2011

• Tanning products in the solarium ESTEL SUN Flower (6 types of cream, which is a four-level system for protecting and caring for the skin of the body when exposed to artificial UV rays).
• The ESTEL Element line, representing consumables for hairdressing: disposable towels, foil, collars…
• The OTIUM line has been replenished with the new OTIUM Aqua series.
• Release of the OTIUM HOMME series.

Something happened that at first few people believed: the products of the Russian enterprise quickly enough not only won a solid segment of the professional hairdressing Russian market, but also significantly pressed the world manufacturers.

Production and distribution

The history of ESTEL production began at just 1000 sq. m leased. There was a warehouse of raw materials, and a warehouse of finished products, and an office, and a laboratory, and the production itself. After a short time, the company needed something more reliable and large-scale. So, in 2003, the building was purchased, which now houses ESTEL (earlier, these premises housed the Research Institute of Quartz Glass). In 2004, it was here that production was launched, and here dreams of a significant increase in production from 1 million to 2 million pieces of products per month became a reality. Frankly, at that time for a young ambitious brand it seemed just fantastic volumes. Although these plans were soon exceeded, and now ESTEL produces up to 6 million pieces of products per month. And this is practically the limit of production possibilities. The brewhouse generally operates in uninterrupted mode, 24 hours a day. That is why ESTEL recently decided to purchase an office, production and warehouse complex in Kolpino. At present, the transaction for the acquisition of the OPS complex has been completed, and the warehouse of the company's finished products has already been located in Kolpino, and design work is being carried out at an accelerated pace in the remaining areas, since the launch of the first lines is planned for the end of 2012. Thus, the ESTEL OPS complex not without reason claims to take the position of one of the largest production facilities for professional hair dyes in Europe.

Today, the brand's dealer network includes more than 150 organizations in Russia, the Baltic states, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Armenia and other neighboring countries. The official representative office of ESTEL-Ukraine has been operating for several years already, in 2011 the representative office of ESTEL-Europe was opened in Germany. The first sales started in Poland. The company plans to enter other markets of Central and Western Europe.

Scientific developments and technology for creating products

From the very first day, the company's own laboratory has been working in close contact with the leading specialists of the St. Petersburg State Institute of Technology, thanks to which the latest scientific developments are used. The staff of the laboratory consists of 15 people, three of whom defended their Ph.D. dissertations. In addition to the development of drugs, the laboratory specialists, together with the engineers of the technical control department, take part in quality control of raw materials and finished products entering the production.

Founder and permanent CEO of the company ESTEL- highly qualified chemist Lev Okhotin. Before opening his own enterprise, Lev Okhotin worked in a group of managers for a large entrepreneur who invested in various projects and their development. One of these projects was a perfumery and cosmetics factory, which a year later, thanks to the efforts of Lev Okhotin and his colleagues, got out of the crisis. It was then that Lev Okhotin thought about the possibility of creating his own company for the development and production of cosmetic products.

The idea was simple: to develop and market a domestic product of high quality and at reasonable prices. In 2001, a series of hair dyes for home use was developed and began to be sold, consisting of 15 shades, called " ESTEL ».

The brand was quickly noticed not only by buyers, but also by professionals in the beauty industry. In May 2005, the company prepared and released the first professional line of ESSEX dyes, which consisted of 67 shades, shampoos and balms. By the end of the next year, the ESSEX palette had almost doubled in size. The novelty was a success with specialists and their clients, and in ESTEL it was decided to develop and offer salons the widest possible selection of domestic products for hairdressers, developing and releasing in record time a huge range of excellent domestic professional cosmetics for hair, and subsequently for the body.

Production history ESTEL started with just 1000 sq. m leased. After a short time, the company needed something more reliable and large-scale. In 2004, production was launched, here the dreams of a significant increase in production from 1 million to 2 million pieces of products per month became a reality.

Today, the brand's dealer network includes more than 150 organizations in Russia, the Baltic States, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Armenia and other countries of the near abroad. In 2011, the official representative office of ESTEL-Ukraine, ESTEL-Europe in Germany was opened. The first sales started in Poland. The company plans to enter other markets of Central and Western Europe.

The strongest link of ESTEL is hair dyes: DE LUXE has 134 tones, ESSEX - 114, DE LUXE SENSE - 68. In the near future, it is planned to expand the palette, including in the direction of lighter tones. ESTEL closely cooperates with hairdressing salons and strictly monitors not only the quality of products, but also the correct use of them.

The company sees its mission in a significant development and increase in the profitability of the hairdressing industry as a whole.

What is the secret of the success of the young Russian professional brand? Main resource ESTEL These are people, their potential and belief in success. The work experience of many is equal to the age of the company itself, and this says a lot. After all, things were not always the way they are now. There were very difficult times of formation, entry into the market, but, nevertheless, these people remained true to the cause that they built together. And now, when ESTEL has become a reputable company with a name, with big plans, vast geography, people still remain the most important and expensive in it. Here all patriots in the full sense of the word. As Lev Okhotin himself says, “we are all infected with the same idea in ESTEL!”.

Hundreds of thousands of professionals choose Estel products, as it is a guarantee of beauty and quality. The production of cosmetics under the Estel Professional brand is carried out by a successful Russian company Unicosmetics LLC. All cosmetics that are produced under the Estel brand have been developed and researched in our own laboratories, using the latest scientific developments.

Story

Lev Okhotin, a highly qualified chemist, is both the CEO and founder of Estel. Lev Okhotin began his career as a manager for a large entrepreneur who did not spare money for various projects and their development. Once, one of these projects was a perfumery and cosmetics factory on the verge of collapse. Thanks to the skills of Lev Okhotin, this factory was restored and brought to a qualitatively new level. And it was this that prompted Leo to think about the possibility of creating his own business in the cosmetics and perfumery field.

In his business plan, Lev Okhotin laid down only one, but extremely important idea - to develop a high-quality domestic product with a reasonable price policy. The CEO began his career with the launch of a series of hair dyes for home use called Estel, which consisted of fifteen shades.

Estel hair dye was immediately noticed and appreciated. Already in May 2005, the ESSEX line of professional dyes was created and put into production, consisting of 67 shades, shampoos and balms. And here the company also expected success. It was decided to expand the palette of ESSEX shades.

The product was moving quite successfully on the market, and Lev Okhotin set the following goal for his company: to develop and produce the widest possible range of high-quality domestic hair cosmetics with a focus on salons and masters, in record time.

Climbing the market

The development of production began with rented squares in the amount of 1000 square meters. m. With the development of production, the question arose of a more reliable and voluminous base for work. And this aspect was also translated into reality, which made it possible to double the production turnover, now about 2 million different types of ESTEL products were produced per month. Today, the brand network consists of more than 150 organizations in Russia, the Baltic states, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Armenia and other countries of the near abroad.

Officially, in 2011, the opening of a representative office of ESTEL-Europe in Germany, ESTEL-Ukraine in Ukraine.

It is very important for both salon masters and the average girl to have high-quality hair cosmetics, which will not only not damage, but also improve the condition of the hair, and also allow professional care to be carried out at home.

Estel's goal

The Estel company sees a large-scale development and an increase in the profitability of the hairdressing industry as a whole; in creating a competitive domestic product at a reasonable price. The secret of the success of the young Russian professional brand is not a secret, the CEO boldly declares it. The main resource of ESTEL is people, their potential and belief in success. The period of work of many employees is equal to the age of the company itself, and this says a lot. After all, at first it was very difficult, and they went through this path of development together with Estel. After all, it is very important to have an employee who knows the history of the company from a to z, all the undercurrents, areas that require special attention, who sincerely worries about the professional growth of the company.

Estel school

To expand the Estel industry, train craftsmen and improve the skills of craftsmen, it was decided to open an Estel school. In 2005, the first Estel hairdressing school appeared in St. Petersburg. The organization of the process and teaching methods had to be completely independently formed. Colleagues from the Parisian Academy of Hairdressing Saint Louis came to the rescue in this matter (using the franchising system).

During the training of the hairdresser, only Estel products are used, and the equipment is custom-made by Welonda. The training program complies with state standards and is constantly integrated in order to expand the practical and theoretical knowledge of students.

In 2007, the developed own teaching methods made it possible to open the Estel Academy. The academy conducts testing of new products, training in technologies for working with Estel brand cosmetics, advanced training of experienced professionals, and presentations of the company's new products.

The staff of the company was rapidly expanding, the prestige of the brand was growing, the demand for products was increasing every day. This led to the opening of the renovated Estel Hairdressing Academy, which included the School and the Author's Beauty Salon.

The professionalism of the Estel company is confirmed by numerous awards for such a short period on the market, the massive use of this cosmetics in salons, as well as the level of demand for Estel products.

Video:

Are you expanding production?

- We do this all the time, as far as Estel can remember, every year more than the previous one. Six years ago, the company acquired a large production site [in Kolpino - approx. ed.], we have successfully launched it and we have great prospects in this regard.

- What kind?

- I am not ready to disclose these plans yet, because the plans are of interest not only to customers, but also to competitors.

— By how much do you plan to increase revenue in 2016?

- In 2016, revenue without VAT will obviously exceed 6 billion rubles [in open sources there are company data for 2014: revenue amounted to 3.9 billion rubles. - approx. ed.]. And what profit will turn out, the accounting department will calculate.

— Due to what growth? Have more customers or expanded the line?

- Both.

— In 2008, the share of foreign brands in the Russian hair dye market was over 70%. What is Estel's share now?

— More than 50%. Competitors leave the market. I assumed that foreign companies would behave in a standard way. And so it happened - our direct competitors, for example, reduced their marketing budgets by about 30%. And Estel increased by 20%. But for us the main struggle is not here. We understand that about 80% of women dye their hair at home and only 20% go to salons. It is also clear that the economic situation in the country does not increase the proportion of women in salons. We need to try to change this balance.

- You said that the economic situation in the country does not increase the proportion of women in salons? What does this mean for you in practice?

- Women in 2015 slightly increased the interval between staining, but so far not very critical. According to my estimates, the market capacity in 2015 fell by about 10-15% compared to 2014.

REFERENCE

Unicosmetics LLC, which produces cosmetics under the Estel brand, was founded in St. Petersburg in 1999. According to kartoteka.ru, the company's owners are Elena Mitskevich (35.1%), its CEO Lev Okhotin (12.1%), as well as Valery Panteleimonov, Anatoly Dubynin and Andrey Mitskevich (17.6% each). The company's revenue for 2014 amounted to 3.9 billion rubles, net profit - 642 million rubles.

The company owns two production sites in St. Petersburg (on Piskarevsky Prospect and in Kolpino).

Success Secrets

- How do you manage to increase income in such a situation?

- Let me explain with an example. At one time, perfumers had the question of how to increase the volume of perfume sales. And they came up with - to find a way to make men their clients. The fact is that before men did not use perfume. It was considered, let's say, a female subject. If a man uses a woman's thing, then this is perceived, excuse me, as castration. And then, in order to encourage men to use perfume, marketers came up with an illusory division into women's and men's perfumes. The idea turned out to be successful and the market received a powerful impetus for development.

This example shows that the obvious, standard way of developing a business - copying what competitors are doing - does not bring much success. It is much more productive to open up new opportunities for people - for your customers and partners, even with old products, or to do completely innovative things. Although they rarely do.

— What did you come up with that is so innovative for the market?

Estel entered the professional cosmetics market back in 2005. Then in St. Petersburg, 40% of hairdressers did not work for a professional brand. They dyed their hair with the dye that the client brought with him.

Our first task was to provide the salon master with an opportunity to use professional paint and open up new professional opportunities for him. True, for this the masters had to be trained, because they did not know how to use professional paints. And we started with training, and global. We are engaged in training, and not only for salon masters, but also in educational institutions of the country, which produce a huge number of hairdressers in our country. Engaged in educational and outreach programs.

That's how we won about 30% of the market. And the rest, of course, snatched from our beloved competitors.

- How?

- Of course, the master needs to be taught how to dye, and cut, etc., but in general, you need to go a little to another level. The point is not only how well the borscht is cooked, but also how it is served.

— That is, clients come to you for service?

- Certainly. A woman can go to the store, buy paint for 200 rubles, and paint herself at home. But 20% still go to the salon and pay a thousand for painting. Overpay 800 rubles. Why? Because masters have learned to paint better than a woman can do it at home. Learned how to pitch.

How the business works

- What does the salon mainly earn on?

- If the salon will only shorten the hair, it will be in a deep financial hole. If he paints, he will get out of it. And if it allows the client to purchase products at home, then he will be a great financial success. That is, it is necessary not only to recommend, but to allow to acquire. For a service that is done with care, the client is willing to pay. Selling cosmetics is a service. Not only get a haircut, color, but recommend what the client really needs.

— Your products are sold in specialized stores. Are you planning to open your stores?

No, we are not interested.

- Why?

- Because in the mass market there are very few people, human and a lot of system. There is no direct contact with the consumer. The consumer communicates only with the store shelf.

- You raised the price of cosmetics?

Yes, they raised it, but not in proportion to the devaluation of the ruble.

— Are the components of Estel products Russian?

- To my deepest regret, there are no Russian cosmetic raw materials for the production of hair dye. I hope to live to see the time when organic synthesis in Russia at least reaches the Soviet level. The Soviet Union had not only high-quality chemistry, but also a very good practical application of its products. Unfortunately, then everything fell apart, so we are forced to use raw materials from all over the world.

— Many paints are more expensive than Estel. What are you saving on?

— On the purse of our breadwinner. Of course, price matters. But there are many brands that are much cheaper than Estel, but they are not as popular.

- How do you still manage to keep prices? All raw materials are imported, and the dollar has doubled ...

- There are costs that depend, and there are those that do not depend on the volume of production. Since the volume of production has increased, we have been able to reduce the share of what depends on the volume of production. Logistics - time. Advertising two. We managed to increase labor productivity - three. Rent four. We have managed to cut costs while production is growing.

Expansion

— Can you tell us about upcoming projects?

- They talk about plans to attract an investor, sell a business or brag. To brag means to play in favor of competitors. Estel does not have a task of either the first, or the second, or the third. Our clients will definitely learn about it after the fact. For example, Estel invested in the opening of the production of lightening hair powder.

— How many own salons do you plan to open this year?

“Now we have four of our own salons, and a fifth one will open soon at Liteiny. And that's all. We will no longer open our own salons. For us, this is not a business, but platforms where we work out different business models, test new services, technologies for working with a client, etc. To then recommend them to our partners - both in Russia and abroad.

Estel only in Russia cooperates with 50 thousand salons. And it also has about 10 thousand partners abroad - from Kazakhstan to Germany. Now we plan to discover new territories, new regional markets. For example, go to Mexico and Iran.

— When are you planning?

— In 2017.

- Can you name the approximate amount of investments?

- Several million.

— Do you plan to open factories in new markets?

- At first, of course, we are not talking about factories, let's start with distribution.

business for people

- Do you see interest in other business?

I am not a fan of diversification. Although they say that “you should not put your eggs in one basket”, I believe that you should do what you love. And the love of money is not the best love. You have to love people and do something for them. Maybe they will vote for it. Therefore, I invest in Estel. Why scatter? If you chase two hares, you won't catch one. If we are chasing a hare, then the fattest.

And when some people from Wall-street say that money makes money, it's sad and sad. Still, between money there must be either a service or a product. After all, it is not the machines that acquire all this, but people.

WFTU - the largest organization in the environment, formed on where a large Russian community lived; the organization originated in the 1920s and formally took shape as the May Party.

At the end of September 1945, Okhotin was arrested, and a year later he was convicted on the same basis as the ataman, Rodzaevsky and others. Was sentenced to 15 years.

Biography

In Harbin in 1932, Okhotin first saw during a report at the Russian Club. At the end of 1933, as a student at the Harbin Pedagogical Institute, he joined the WFTU (remained a member until 1943). In 1934, Okhotin made a personal acquaintance with Rodzaevsky.

Since 1935, he was a clerk, and then head of the office of the WFTU (1935-1937) and publisher of the newspaper "" (1938-1940). At the end of 1936 he was appointed head of the organizational department of the WFTU. In 1937-1938 he was also the secretary of the head of the WFTU Rodzaevsky. Okhotin's wife - headed in 1936-1943.

Okhotin was a member of the Supreme Council of the WFTU from 1937 to 1943.

Court

Okhotin was charged with active anti-Soviet activities after fleeing the USSR, in particular, participation in a fascist organization and membership in the Supreme Council of the RFU. In addition, according to the verdict, he was an agent of Japanese intelligence, being an employee of the Japanese military mission from 1940 until the day of his arrest, preparing spies, saboteurs and transferring them to the USSR for subversive work.

All defendants pleaded guilty. On August 30, 1946, at 5 o'clock, Ulrich began and finished reading the verdict at 5:30 o'clock. According to the verdict, Okhotin L.P. was found guilty, and he, as well as Prince Ukhtomsky, “considering their relatively smaller role in anti-Soviet activities,” was sentenced to 15 and 20 years, respectively.

Lev Okhotin died at a logging site in , having served two out of fifteen years in prison there.

Case review

Family

Father Pavel Okhotin (? - 1916 or 1917) - officer, died.

Mother Nadezhda Mikhailovna Melnikova, until 1919 Okhotina (1887 -?) - until 1916 or 1917 was married to Pavel Okhotin. In 1919 she married Alexander Melnikov, head of the Chita police section. Until August 1945 she lived in Harbin, her further fate is unknown.

Stepfather Alexander Petrovich Melnikov (1883 -?) - in 1919 he married Okhotin's mother - Nadezhda. Until August 1945 he lived in Harbin, his further fate is unknown.

Sister Alla Ilinskaya (1915 -?) - was married to Alexei Ilyinsky (1906 -?). Until August 1945 she lived in Harbin, her further fate is unknown.

Brothers Alexei Melnikov (1920 -?), Georgy Melnikov (1922 -?), Sergei Melnikov (1928 -?), and sister Tamara Melnikova (1932 -?) lived in Harbin until August 1945, their fate is unknown.

Wife - Evlalia Grigoryevna Okhotina, nee Silinskaya (12/4/1912 - December 1981,) - was born in the family of a priest. In 1922, together with her family, she emigrated from Russia to Manchuria. In 1934 she married Lev Okhotin. Headed in 1936-1943. From 1943-1945 she was a housewife. In the autumn of 1945, she was arrested in Harbin and sentenced to imprisonment. After being released from prison in 1956, she married a former member of the WFTU Migunov. She died in December 1981 in the city of Dzhambul.

Okhotin in art

Okhotin is one of the heroes of the novel "In those days in the East" by the Soviet writer Timofey Chernov. He is presented in the work as an anti-Soviet and a devoted comrade-in-arms of the Japanese.

Notes

1. Rendering in any way assistance to that part of the international bourgeoisie, which, not recognizing the equality of the communist system that is replacing the capitalist system, seeks to overthrow it, as well as to public groups and organizations that are under the influence or directly organized by this bourgeoisie, in the implementation of a hostile anti-USSR activities.
2. Espionage, that is, the transfer, abduction or collection for the purpose of transferring information that is, in its content, a specially protected state secret, to foreign states, counter-revolutionary organizations or private individuals.
3. The commission of terrorist acts directed against representatives of the Soviet government or leaders of revolutionary and workers' parties, peasant organizations, and participation in the execution of terrorist acts, even if by persons who do not belong to counter-revolutionary organizations.
4. Destruction or damage with a counter-revolutionary purpose by explosion, arson or other purposes of a railway or other means of communication, communications, water supply, public warehouses and other structures, or state and public property.
5. Anti-Soviet agitation and propaganda.
6. Any kind of organizational activity aimed at the preparation or commission of the crimes provided for in this chapter [meaning the chapter "Counter-revolutionary crimes"], as well as participation in an organization formed for the preparation or commission of one of the crimes provided for by this chapter.

Sources

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2. GAHC. F. R830. Op. 3. D. 35230. L. 9.
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4. , With. 138.
5. GAHC. F. R830. Op. 3. D. 35230. L. 57v.
6. , With. 172.
7. Investigation case N-18765 against G. M. Semyonov, K. V. Rodzaevsky and others // Central Archive of the FSB RF. L. 459.
8. Investigation case N-18765 against G. M. Semyonov, K. V. Rodzaevsky and others // Central Archive of the FSB RF. L. 462.
9. , With. 416.
10. Investigation case N-18765 against G. M. Semyonov, K. V. Rodzaevsky and others // Central Archive of the FSB RF. L. 442.