Transferring the image to polymer clay. Translation of the image onto polymer clay. Tools and materials

Cognitive master class on image translation into polymer clay... This technique gives a lot of room for decorating polymer clay products. This feast does not require any specialized materials.

Necessary materials:

• plastic,
• vodka (cheap, not tincture),
• cotton swabs,
• stationary knife,
• the image itself (in my case, it was printed on photo paper by an inkjet printer)

1. First you need to decide on the plastic. Here the choice is quite large, but most often Fimo, Cernit and Polish are used. The process is basically the same.
I chose Polish for myself because of its inexpensive price, as well as good fat content, which is very important for translation.

The next step is to prepare the image to be translated. You can use clippings from magazines, books, or you can prepare your drawing yourself and print it on a printer, which can be done in any more or less large photo workshop.

Important: if you are a beginner (although not only), then it is better to make several repetitions of the desired drawing on the sheet, because in case of failure, you can always redo :-)

Now you need to roll out the plastic. It's not so easy to do this with Polish, because very sticky (when fresh). There are several ways to reduce stickiness, but more on that next time. I roll it out, covering the top and bottom with cellophane packaging from the CD, then the plastic sticks to the film, rolls out well and easily separates from it. (in this case, you can work with fresh plastic).

2.3. We take the picture, turn it "face" down on the already rolled plastic and press it (I pressed it with a manicure tool, but in principle I do it with a stationary knife) in order to remove air. Remember to flip the image, otherwise it will be mirrored (especially for photographs of people)

At this stage, you can stop and leave for a while so that the fat of the plastic soaks the drawing, then it is better to transfer. Just at this time, I cut out the desired shape, although this can be done at the end.

4. Moisten liberally with vodka. But you can not leave it, but immediately wet it with vodka, I use cotton cosmetic circles for this. It is necessary that the sheet is completely wet and the drawing appears. Press a little so that the remaining air comes out if there is still one. Here you can also leave to soak, the more the paper gets wet. the easier it will be to remove. I just cover the top with wet cotton circles, sometimes 10 minutes less, sometimes more, as time is possible.

5.6.7. carefully remove layer by layer of paper to the image, moistening with vodka. At the end it is especially neat, because the image could be accidentally torn, so print multiple copies of the same image at once. Gently, in a circular motion, we begin to drive on the paper, it will begin to roll right under the fingers and go off. But be sure to watch so as not to accidentally remove the paint layer. Better to let some of the paper remain. it is then easy to remove after heat treatment. and constantly moisturize your fingers, the paper should always be wet. From time to time I just squeeze out a little vodka on top so that the drawing is always wet.

8. Cut off the excess plastic (if you haven't cut it off yet) into the oven (see the instructions on the package), or how I (I have a gas oven and any plastic burns in it) put it in a water bath. In the case of Polish plastics, 15 minutes is enough. after letting the product cool down and wash off the remaining paper under running water, it comes off very easily.

9. After the product has cooled down, the excess paper can be removed with water. Finish the edges. After drying, it is imperative to varnish, otherwise the image will not be bright and will wear off over time.

Further, there is a flight of imagination, you can decorate, or you can process the edges with zero sandpaper or polish for nails and open it with varnish and the product is ready. It is imperative to cover with varnish, otherwise the drawing will be erased over time.

Creative success!
Go for it and everything will work out!

I'll tell you about an interesting and very popular nowadays technique of transferring an image to polymer clay. With its help, you can make completely unique and very beautiful jewelry for yourself or in.

First you need to choose a suitable image. It is desirable that it be black and white (I just haven't tried it with color images yet). The picture must be printed on a laser (!) Printer and cut to the required size workpiece. Now we take a small piece of polymer clay. For such products, it is better to take clay high Quality (Fimo, Premo, etc.).

We roll out the clay to the required thickness, overlay the cut out picture and cut off the remaining clay along the edges. Having prepared all the blanks, you need to take formic alcohol (sold in pharmacies), wet a cotton swab with it and blot the image. Repeat this action 5 - 7 times with quite strong pressure.

Then you can act in different ways: either try to immediately carefully remove the paper (the image should be transferred to clay) and then send the product to the oven, or bake it along with the paper. Both options are suitable - as it is more convenient to whom. In the oven, the workpieces should be for about 10 - 15 minutes at a temperature not higher than 140 degrees.

We cover the finished products with a special varnish and bring them to the desired look using jewelry rings, hooks, etc. These are the amazing things that end up with - a set of earrings and brooches!

To be honest, it took me a long time to accurately and efficiently translate an image. It is important to make sure that the whole picture fits snugly against the clay!

Transfer of a drawing to polymer clay

There are several ways to transfer an image to polymer clay, in this tutorial I will briefly talk about them.

Using liquid transparent polymer clays. I only know of two such types - Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) and Donna Kato-Sauce. This method gives us a very subtle image that can then be placed (glued) onto any surface such as paper, polymer clay, wax, plastic, glass and fabric.

Take a picture or photo. It is desirable that the image has "margins" of about 1-1.5 cm, because the edges of the product are very thin and break. These extra margins can be trimmed after baking. With a shaving brush or if your picture is very small, apply a thin layer of TLS to the picture with an ordinary art brush. Apply the polymer in a thin, even layer, slightly outside the pattern. Bake your product according to the polymer clay instructions. Then immediately immerse it in a vessel with ice water for 20 minutes. But if you keep it in the water even longer, then nothing bad will happen. After 20-30 minutes, remove the image from the water and gently roll it up with your finger, wipe the paper off the plastic. All that remains is a thin, flexible film with a pattern printed on it. Be especially careful at the edges - they break easily.

Now you can use your drawing on almost any surface using TLS, PVA glue or acrylic.

This way of transferring images to plastic consists in baking the prepared product with a pattern applied to it. We use a decal, but you can choose any drawing or photo. The drawing can be printed on a printer or copier, simply drawn with waterproof ink or pencils on laser paper, or it can be printed on glossy paper.

Select your image for translation and trim off excess edges. IN this method do not make extra fields of the picture, because the clay layer will be the thickness you selected for the product.

Prepare your polymer clay. Use light shades of clay or white or translucent polymer clay. Darker clay colors will hide your image.

Prepare your work surface. You can put the clay on waxed paper to prevent the clay from sticking to the table. Roll out the polymer clay to the desired thickness.

Place the decal in a bowl of room temperature water. Let it sit there for a while until the paper is soaked in water.

Take the picture out of the water and put it wet on polymer clay. If you are using special decals, separate the backing from the paper. If you have a photo or drawing, place it face down on the clay.

Use a paper towel to thoroughly but gently blot the drawing until both the picture and the polymer clay are completely dry.

Use your finger to smooth the picture very gently to remove any tiny air bubbles between the paper and the polymer clay. Alternatively, cover the picture with a piece of paper and polish it through the paper from the center to the edges, so there is less chance of damaging the picture.

Cut out the desired piece of polymer clay with a pattern of the shape you want. If the clay layer is too thin, add an extra layer below. Then you can bake your product according to the instructions for polymer clay. After baking, allow the product to cool to room temperature before touching the pattern.

If you used not a special decal, but a drawing or photo on paper, then after baking, carefully remove the paper from the plastic under running water or by placing your product in a bowl of water. With light circular motions of your finger, "erase" the paper layer from the surface of the product.

The third way to convert your image to polymer clay is to alcohol treatment (some use the usual vodka).

As in the previous case, we take a drawing printed on a laser printer, or cut from a magazine. Place it face down on the rolled plastic and smooth it carefully so that no air bubbles remain between the picture and the clay layer. Then, with a cotton swab or a soft cloth soaked in alcohol, we blot the drawing so that it is soaked in alcohol. You can even pour a piece of plastic with a picture placed on it with alcohol and let it lie down for a while. We carefully "scrape" paper well-soaked with alcohol from the plastic with any flat, non-sharp instrument, for example, the back of a knife or a ruler. If the drawing dries up, it must be moistened again and again with alcohol until we remove all the paper. We carefully place the finished piece of plastic with a picture on it in the oven and bake. Do not touch the picture on raw plastic with your hands, otherwise the drawing will be on your hands, and not on your product!

Video tutorial on how to transfer a picture to plastic

Notes:

If you are translating a photo or drawing with text, then print the image in mirror image.

Click on the picture to enlarge it

Question about opportunity grinding decals are very thin. It is possible that very small surface irregularities can be smoothed out with fine-grained sandpaper No. 600 or 800, but the risk of damaging the picture remains quite high. Try to roll out the polymer clay as evenly as possible before baking so that you do not have to polish it later, for fear of erasing the pattern from it.

A product made of polymer clay can be decorated with a beautiful image using the decoupage technique, or you can apply a pattern of your choice acrylic paints... But we suggest using an even simpler method. Transfer of a drawing to plastic will allow you to transfer any image or photo to a polymer clay product.

You will need:

• printed picture
• some plastic

1. Print the image on a laser printer, it does not matter - black and white or color. Print in a mirror image, especially an image with text.

2. Roll out the plastic to the desired thickness, for example 3 mm.

3. Cut the picture along the outline.

4. Place the picture with the front side to the plastic and roll it on with a roller. Carefully cut off the remaining clay with a knife.

5. Leave it on for a few hours. As soon as it becomes clear that the paper is saturated with plasticizer, you can bake. You can tell by the way the paper looks greasy. See the packaging for the baking time and temperature.

6. After the product has completely cooled down under a stream of cool water, roll the paper off the plastic. Do this very carefully so as not to damage the thin layer with the image.

7. Sand and polish the sides and seamy side of the garment, then varnish.

The patterned pendant is ready!

Another option for transferring an image to plastic: take formic alcohol (sold in a pharmacy) and, attaching the image to the plastic, moisten it abundantly with alcohol. Repeat this process several times as it dries. Then, after sprinkling the paper with water, so that it can be easily removed, put the product to bake.

Handicraft goods store: Hobby-Box.ru

In this lesson I will tell and show you how you can make such a pendant, which will take no more than an hour to make!

Tools and materials:

• Thermal transfer paper for inkjet prints onto light fabric;
• Round pendant base;
• FIMO Soft (Fimo soft) white;
• Acrylic plastic roller or glass bottle. I used an aluminum varnish bottle;
• Shape for cutting out circles (its size must match the size of the image);
• Cling film, scissors;
• PVA glue or any glue for decoupage;
• FIMO polymer clay varnish.

Progress:

Using an inkjet printer, we print the picture you like for making a pendant on paper for thermal transfer of the image. In my case, this is a round picture with a diameter of 19 mm.

We take a small piece of white plastic (1/8 of the full layer of Fimo is enough), knead it and give the shape of a cake about 3.5-4 mm thick). Place the formed cake between two layers of cling film and roll it out with a roller to a thickness of 2.5-3 mm. Without removing the film, we cut out a circle from the plastic using a shape (for me this shape served as a cap from cosmetic product). Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, remove the plastic trim.

On the resulting circle we put a metal base-blank for the pendant, so that the centers of the circle made of plastic and the metal base coincide.

Attention:do not remove the bottom layer of cling film, otherwise you will not be able to remove the pendant from the working surface without deforming it!

Now we slightly press the frame into the plastic and straighten the part of the plastic that was squeezed out through the hole in the center with our fingers so that the surface in the frame is flat.

Next, we roll out another cake 1.5-2mm thick, placing it again between two layers of the film, and cut out a similar circle. Carefully remove the plastic circle from the cling film, tuck it into the pendant, and roll it through the film.

We need food film so that the product can be easily removed from the working surface without deformation. And the surface rolled through the film becomes smoother, and this is extremely important for us.

We release the pendant from the film. It now looks like Figure 11 from the outside, and Figure 12 from the inside.

I tinted the edges of the plastic with eyeshadow - this was required by the coloring and the plot of the selected image (Fig. 13). And the resulting pendant, together with a sheet of paper on which the picture for the pendant is printed, is baked in the oven for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 110-130 ° C.

Even though the outer surface is flat and very neat, it is better to sand it.

Now we will transfer the image to the prepared pendant.

The picture after firing has become glossy and the top layer of the paper with the picture can be easily removed. Cut out the image along the contour, remove the almost transparent film with the pattern, turn it over with the image down and apply it to the surface of the pendant, which has been preliminarily greased with PVA glue. Carefully smooth out the image on the pendant, expelling excess glue and air.

In fact, it turned out decoupage on baked plastic.

After the glue dries, we cover the pendant with FIMO glossy varnish and this is the result of our labors!

The only thing that remains is the most pleasant thing: to choose the fittings and give the product the final look.

For this I used

• bale,
• open rings with a diameter of 4 mm,
• silver ear wires
• leather lace with clasp.