Californian worms: breeding as a business. Raising California Worms How to Raise California Worms

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Breeding Californian red worms is a task that even a schoolchild can do. After all, there are no difficulties in creating optimal conditions for this. Moreover, there is practically no need for even financial investments. Running such a business is a very profitable business. And the profitability is clearly proven. The main thing is to find a reliable sales market.

California worms have an excellent ability to quickly and efficiently process organic waste, creating excellent vermicompost. This is a unique fertilizer, which in its composition surpasses even humus. Experts say that vermicompost is almost eight times better than the humus we are used to.

Moreover, vermicompost has no odor, so it is recommended to use it not only in the garden, but also for feeding indoor plants. Most often, such complex fertilizer is applied to the soil in the spring. It can even be added to containers with seedlings. The main thing is to stick to proportions. Everything is fine, back to normal.

Best places for breeding

To begin with, it is important to choose the place where the worms will breed. This could be a cottage, garage, basement or other household space similar to those listed above. You can use any kind of box or container. Although you can dig a hole in the ground. But it is imperative to line the cavity with natural material to prevent the individuals from spreading.

California worms on hand close up

How to breed red worms

There are no significant differences between puffballs and California worms. In addition, the latter are more effective in processing organic matter. As for their living conditions, red individuals prefer a warmer environment and simply cannot tolerate frost.

Unlike rainwater species, Californian species do not crawl to the surface during rain. They are more comfortable staying in the ground (substrate).

Manufacturing and arrangement of a worm house

The optimal place for breeding is considered to be a compost pit (or heap), boxes or lodges. Food comes from organic waste. This may include manure, bird droppings, straw, wood chips, vegetable peels and other organic waste. Everything is collected in a heap and thoroughly moistened. After a few months, the organic matter decomposes and good conditions for breeding are created.

The lower part of the container or container you come up with must be able to allow moisture to pass through. Because excess moisture can harm the inhabitants of the soil mixture. This will become an ideal vermicompost. With the water passing through the upper tray with worms, biomaterial will also come out, improving the substrate.

Soil preparation

You can use humus, rotten leaves and even cooking waste as a mixture, in other words, almost any organic waste. This will create comfort, softness and nutrition in the resulting habitat. To enrich the mixture with oxygen for normal decomposition of organic matter, it is important to dig up or gently mix the compost at least once a week.

The substrate must meet the required parameters of acidity, humidity and temperature. This will be discussed in detail below.

Settlement

Initially, California worms must be introduced into a smaller container with a ready-made substrate. It will act as some kind of pallet. Experts advise covering the top of the pallet with a high-density fabric. This will keep the heat inside the imaginary container.

Before populating the main family, it is recommended to place a test batch. If after a couple of days everyone is still alive, you can continue the resettlement.

When at least 10% of the individuals have died, it is worth reviewing the soil mixture. Perhaps it is too sour. To correct the situation, you need to add straw, plant tops or sawdust to the substrate.

Nutrition

It is recommended to feed the worms only after eating the previous portion. Otherwise, you yourself will provoke obesity in your wards. They can be fed manure, bird droppings, plant tops, paper, cardboard, vegetable peels, straw, hay, sawdust and other organic waste. If you live in your own home, then there will never be problems with food.

The nutrition of worms should not be neglected. But feed only after destroying the previous portion

Spoiled baked goods, used tea leaves and grounds from natural coffee are considered a special treat for these animals. You should not throw citrus waste into the compost. This may increase the acidity of the mixture. From time to time it is important to supplement the composition with ground remains of eggshells. This procedure will allow you to painlessly maintain the acid-base balance of the environment.

Care

Optimal conditions of detention:

• acidity - 6.5 - 7.5 pH;
• temperature - 20-25 degrees Celsius above zero;
• humidity - 70-80%.

California worms are heat-loving spineless animals. For their normal development and reproduction, the temperature must be maintained within 25 degrees Celsius above zero. If the mark on the thermometer scale decreases, they will eat worse and reproduce less. When the temperature reaches 5 degrees, the creeping creatures may die altogether.

It is important to pay attention to the water used to water the substrate. It should not be chlorinated, otherwise the living creatures will die.

It is worth turning the compost at some intervals. This will ensure oxygen access to the substrate.

From time to time the compost in the worm bin needs to be turned

Wintering

Since these invertebrate animals are very afraid of the cold, preparation for winter must be thorough.. It is important to ensure the required temperature regime for them and to prevent overcooling of the soil mixture.

To do this, fresh compost 20-40 cm thick is laid on the surface of the container. Then everything is watered generously and covered with hay or straw in a thick ball of 0.5 m. The topmost layer may freeze a little in severe frosts. But it's not scary. For a common substrate where the worms will be located, there will be no problems. With the arrival of spring, the inhabitants of the soil mixture will already feed on the top of the humus. Whereas the lower 2/3 of the total volume of compost will already turn into high-quality vermicompost.

Sales Features

Since the cost of one worm is low, to get a good profit you need to reach wholesale volumes. This product may be of interest to pet stores, agricultural farms, fishing farms and even fishing stores. Active advertising is needed here.

First, you should sell your product to friends and neighbors, for example, who are going fishing. Well, then look for a bigger customer.

Profitability

Breeding Californian worms is extremely profitable. Since production itself is practically inexpensive. All proceeds are net.

Practice shows that 1 sq. m of nursery will allow you to get about 1-10 thousand individuals and half a ton of vermicompost for sale. Considering that 1 unit costs around two rubles, you get 20 thousand rubles in your hands. The main thing is to find a profitable and permanent place to sell your products.

Mistakes in breeding

• It is strictly prohibited to use chlorinated water to create compost. Because bleach is considered a killer trace element for worms. If there is no other water, it should be left to settle for several days. After this, the chlorine will go away. By the way, rainwater is also suitable. Cheap and cheerful;
• Fresh manure should not be added to the compost. During its humus, the temperature can rise to almost 600 degrees Celsius, and the inhabitants of the compost will simply die;
• old manure is also not suitable. If it has been lying there for more than three years, the amount of nutritional components will be insufficient for the normal growth and reproduction of invertebrate animals.

In general, it is worth noting that raising California red worms is not difficult. Our country has created all the conditions and opportunities to engage in this extensively as a business and earn good money. The main thing is to think over the sales market and set up your own small production. And we have already discussed in detail how to do this.

Entrepreneurial activities for breeding worms are characterized by a high level of profitability and low capital costs. Among other things, you can even do this at home or in an apartment (by allocating just one room).

1. Waste-free production.

"Prospector"

Earthworm

Dendroben

Muckworm

The advantages of this type of worm lie in its distinctive characteristics for vermicultivation. Previously it served as the basis for breeding such species as the Prospector and the Red Californian worm.

Red Californian worm for breeding at home.

Based on the dung worm, a new population can be developed, characterized by greater gluttony, growth and reproduction speed, depending on the needs of customers.

flour worm

• loosening the soil;
• timely feeding;
• watering the soil.

Among all the species of earthworms existing in the world, only a few can be cultured under artificial conditions.

But the most universal in their characteristics and the most economically attractive are the worms belonging to the “Red Worms” species.

The red earthworm usually has the commercial name “California”, since it was in the state of California in the United States of America that its intensive cultivation began in the fifties of the last century. Among the various species obtained as a result of various selections, the red worm obtained by the American Barrett, as a result of the selection of a common dung worm, is widespread and successfully reproduced.

What does a California red worm look like?

The red California worm is dark red in color (brown-red with violet-pearl tones), the body of the worm is elongated, cylindrical, flattened on the abdominal side and divided into segments, each of which has two bristles on each side. Cultured individuals have a length of 6 to 9 cm, and a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. The weight of an adult worm is in the range of 0.2-1.0 g. Body temperature 19-20°C.

The Californian worm is very prolific, and its lifespan is 4 times longer than the lifespan of a “wild” earthworm.

Different lifespans and fecundity of forest earthworm and red Californian worm.

Life expectancy of the red Californian worm: about 16 years, during which it regularly copulates every 7 days, starting from the 90th day of life, if the litter is at an acceptable temperature for it.
The California worm is hermaphrodite (bisexual) and cannot self-fertilize. However, as a result of cross-fertilization of two earthworms, two eggs or capsules are formed, one for each individual, which mature and open in 14-21 days, depending on the temperature of the worms' habitat in the litter.

Rules for breeding Californian worms

Each capsule or cocoon contains from 2 to 20 worms, and on average 7 young worms are born from each individual of the common earthworm in the climatic conditions of southern Europe.
The number of young worms very much depends on the temperature outside the cocoon in the habitat, however, in a simplified way we can say that the sexual activity of this worm decreases in the cold months and reaches a maximum of fecundity in the temperate season and decreases again in particularly hot months.

Temperature regime for cultivating the Californian worm

It should be emphasized that one of the main concerns of a new worm breeder is maintaining a constant temperature of the bed. Optimal conditions, that is, humus production and sexual activity, are achieved at a bed temperature of 19 to 20 °C.
The California worm is afraid of both excessive cold (0°C) and too much heat (over 42°C), so measures must be taken to protect it from unfavorable climatic conditions.

Advantages and disadvantages

The California red worm reaches sexual maturity at three months of age, when it can be considered fully mature. Two earthworms per year can produce an average of 1,500 young worms under fairly normal temperate climate conditions. Thus, one pair produces 3,000 young worms annually over five generations.
This pair, grown in an optimal environment of constant average temperature, constant and controlled humidity, adequate food and sufficient water, can produce 7 to 10 young worms per capsule and up to 20 to 21 young worms when reared in a greenhouse.

The Californian earthworm differs from the ordinary earthworm by its higher vital activity and the ability to process food faster and more completely. As a result of processing one ton of substrate, about 600 kg of vermicompost, A the increase in worm biomass is 100 kg.

As noted above, the only drawback of the California worm is that it is too heat-loving. Its instinct of self-preservation at subzero temperatures is weakened and therefore, when its habitat cools, the Californian worm does not go deep into the soil to the freezing depth, but gathers in one place in large quantities and freezes safely. So if you are going to breed this type of worm, you should take care of good a worm farm with a positive temperature in winter, or the piles will have to be well insulated when grown outside.

Entrepreneurial activities for breeding worms are characterized by a high level of profitability and low capital costs.

About breeding worms as a business in the country or in a private house

Among other things, you can even do this at home or in an apartment (by allocating just one room).

In addition to the fact that worms themselves are a product of sale, they can provide additional income as fertilizer and worm tea, which significantly accelerate the development of plants.

This idea will be especially interesting as an additional business for gardeners, poultry and fish farmers. This production will perfectly supplement agribusiness with useful humus, and poultry and fish farms will be supplied with healthy complementary foods at cost.

Advantages of a business idea with minimal investment

The economic justification for breeding worms at home is due to the clear advantages of a profitable business with minimal investment.

Benefits of breeding worms:

1. Simplicity of the equipment used.
2. High rate of reproduction of individuals.
3. The presence of a high level of demand, as well as ample opportunities to open new sales points.
4. Minor ongoing costs for care and feeding.
5. Waste-free production.

In just one year, an entrepreneur can receive more than fifteen thousand individuals and up to one ton of fertilizers (with a nursery size of 2 m2). Having made simple calculations, you can see that the net profit from the sale of 15 thousand individuals will be about $700. In addition, the profitability of this business can be increased by selling the collected ton of worm tea and humus. In today's economic situation, the profitability of breeding worms for humus production reaches 145%, which is an excellent indicator for such low initial costs.

Which worms are best for breeding?

Any type of worm can be used for breeding worms as a business. The most popular and cost-effective are the types presented below.

"Prospector"

Appears to be a key competitor of California red worms. "Staratel" is distinguished by its high ability to quickly process biomass into fertilizers. Characterized by high activity. One of the advantages of breeding this species is its high resistance to temperature changes; it can withstand from +9 to +30 degrees.

Earthworm

It is characterized by a high level of adaptation to the environment, which makes it an excellent tool for making a profit even in a city apartment. The only drawback of this type of worm is its low reproductive activity, which, however, can be compensated experimentally.

California (red) worm

To effectively and profitably breed California red worms at home, you need to maintain (at least) three families, each of which contains a thousand individuals. This species is characterized by a whimsical appetite for food (special food is required). Reacts sharply to temperature: the room should not be below +10. A distinctive advantage is high-quality humus.

Dendroben

This type of worm was specially bred by farmers as bait when fishing. Despite the low level of reproduction rate and life expectancy, dendrobena are quite large and fleshy. Also, worm cocoons are able to withstand temperatures down to -18 degrees, after which they are hatched at a positive temperature level. Excellent for soil improvement and, as a result, may be of interest to companies involved in agricultural activities.

Muckworm

The advantages of this type of worm lie in its distinctive characteristics for vermicultivation. Previously it served as the basis for breeding such species as the Prospector and the Red Californian worm. Based on the dung worm, a new population can be developed, characterized by greater gluttony, growth and reproduction speed, depending on the needs of customers.

flour worm

Like the others, this type does not require any specialized knowledge and significant capital to build a profitable business process. It is characterized by a high reproduction rate and resistance to temperature changes.

Helpful advice! It is worth noting that the natural habitat of one type of worm can be destructive for other species. For example, if an earthworm and a dungworm live together, the earthworm dies. Since the waste products of a dung worm are toxic to others. Keeping all types separately will reinsure the business against losses.

Conditions for breeding worms

Worm care consists of the following:

• loosening the soil;
• maintaining the required temperature range;
• timely feeding;
• watering the soil.

Almost all types of worms do not require special conditions for feeding. The temperature level, as mentioned above, should not fall below +9 degrees and rise above +30. Worms love moisture, but don't overdo it. The soil moisture level should not exceed 85%.

After the population has grown, the “extra” individuals should be moved to another container. Otherwise, the worms will stop reproducing. Also, after increasing the level of compost in the soil with worms, it is necessary to loosen it. In the vast majority of cases, this is no more than twice a week. Correct and timely loosening of the soil makes it possible to provide insects with the necessary access to oxygen, which has a beneficial effect on their reproduction rate.

Ways to sell finished products

The worm farming business has a wide range of marketing opportunities. For example, after reaching a sufficient number of individuals, you can safely establish contacts with various pet stores, as well as fish farms. Moreover, the geography of sales of finished products is not limited solely to one’s own city of residence. Using the Internet, you can find websites of pet stores in other cities. Recently, an online store has been an effective way to promote products sold.

Another, no less important method is direct sales in urban markets. One package of worms (thirty individuals) will cost on average $1-1.5.

As for humus and worm tea, this is an indispensable fertilizer for many gardeners and summer residents. By setting the average market price, you can quickly develop a significant customer base of retail buyers. You can find out more in this video.

California worms

There are a huge number of species of worms, but few are able to reproduce and live in artificial conditions. Economically attractive and universal in their biological characteristics are worms that belong to the “red” species. They are used as excellent bait for fishing, production of vermicompost, liquid fertilizers and protein meal. Why do some earthworms have the commercial name "California"? There is a fairly simple answer to this. In the United States of America in the 50s of the 20th century, intensive cultivation of this worm began, which is where its commercial name came from. It was obtained as a result of the long work of the American Thomas Jason Barrett (Thomas J. Barrett, 1884 - 1975). He is the founder of industrial vermiculture in the USA. The ancestor of the California worm and prospector is the common dung worm.

What do California red worms look like?

The body is elongated, in an adult it is slightly flattened in the middle. The color ranges from dark red to brown-red, sometimes you can see pearlescent tones. The body is divided into segments with two setae. Thickness from 3 to 5 mm, average length from 8 to 10 cm, adults reach up to 14 cm. Weight from 0.4 to 1 gram, body temperature 16-22 C.

Fertility

After fertilization, two cocoons (capsules) are formed, one for each individual. Cocoons open after ripening in 3-4 weeks (depending on temperature, substrate humidity and acidity). An average of 4 to 8 young worms are born from each capsule.

California worm - the best pet for a summer resident Part 2

During the cold season, sexual activity decreases, as well as during particularly hot months. As for the moderately warm season, sexual activity increases significantly. The worm lives 13-15 years, after two to three months of life under moderate conditions for it, it is able to produce new cocoons.

Optimal temperature conditions

Maintaining temperature is the main task, which is especially important in both winter and summer. The maximum production of vermicompost and the highest sexual activity when the substrate temperature is within 20 C. Excessive cold below 0 C or high cold - above 35 C negatively affects the worm; under these conditions it dies, like any other species. Pay close attention to vermiculture conditions. The optimal number is considered to be 750-1500 individuals per square meter, with a substrate height of about 25 cm. When working with ridges and piles, it is worth taking into account the temperature regime on the floor, since in winter a large amount of cold comes from below. The temperature of not only the environment, but also the entire volume of the substrate (feed) should be measured.

Advantages and disadvantages

A mature worm is considered after two to three months from the moment it emerges from its cocoon. Two mature individuals produce from 1000 to 2000 young heirs per year. It can be calculated that over five generations, one pair produces a large number of heirs, which must sometimes be divided into different ridges or boxes. If the concentration of worms is too high, the speed of their development will be slowed down. An excessive amount in a certain volume where they grow and reproduce does not allow some worms, especially young ones, to reach areas of the substrate that have not yet been eaten by their neighbors. In this case, there must be a constant average temperature and humidity, a sufficient amount of moisture. Good vermiculture conditions make it possible to obtain up to 15 young worms from one cocoon.

The Californian worm is much more active than a regular earthworm, reproduces faster and processes the substrate, and lives longer (up to 15 years compared to 4 years of a regular dung worm).

The disadvantage is that they do not like the cold. At sub-zero temperatures, they are unable to go deep into the ground sufficient for self-preservation - the entire population moves to warmer areas. If everything freezes, the individuals gather in one lump and die. We can conclude that growing “Californians” in winter is associated with maintaining optimal temperatures necessary for their life.

Buy California worms

Agrodream is engaged in breeding and sales. You can buy in unlimited quantities and in any container, for example in a plastic container, bucket or special box with substrate at low prices. We will ensure safety during transportation. You can purchase worms for fishing by pick-up from our farm. For vermicompost production and breeding, we recommend purchasing a population of worms for breeding.

Buy worms for fishingBuy a biohumus

home< Разведение Калифорнийских червей в домашних условиях.

Breeding California worms at home.

Breeding the red Californian worm (RCW) at home is a very profitable activity, because the food for the CRC is any organic waste, which is processed by the worm into a balanced, environmentally friendly fertilizer vermicompost. Also, the California worm multiplies very quickly, which allows the worm to be sold biomass and individually to fishing shops and agricultural enterprises, as protein supplements for animals and birds.

The best type of earthworm for breeding at home and industrially is the red Californian worm. Before purchasing worms, please note that the worms must be mobile and red in color. At first, the worm should be in its native substrate to get used to the new food.

A high-quality California red worm broodstock (family) should number at least 1,500 individuals.

To breed the California worm at home, use boxes, piles (beds), compost heaps or pits. Organic waste is used as food for worms: manure, bird droppings, plant tops, fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, sawdust, food vegetable waste, cardboard, paper, etc.

Basic rules for preparing substrate (compost) for further colonization of worms:

• Do not use chlorinated water to moisten compost. Chlorine is poisonous to worms. If the water is chlorinated, you need to let it stand for 2-3 days, the chlorine will go away, you can also use rain water
• It is forbidden to use fresh manure, since in the process of burning out the manure, its temperature will rise to 70-800C and the worm will die
• It is not recommended to use old manure that has lain for more than 3 years; it contains a small amount of useful substances for worms.

Organic waste is collected in heaps and moistened. In this way they rot for 1-3 months.

Dimensions of the compost pile:

• pile width 1.2-2 meters
• height 20-30 cm
• any length.

The California worm easily gets used to different food, so when using different composts, we recommend doing a test colonization. A little prepared substrate is placed in the box and 50-100 adult worms are populated. If after 24 hours they are all alive, then the compost is suitable for further colonization. If 5-10 worms die, then the cause may be increased acidity or alkalinity. If the acidity is high, add a little limestone or regular chalk; if the alkalinity is high, add straw or sawdust to the compost; you can also add plant tops.

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

• acidity 6.5-7.5 PH
• temperature 15-220C
• Compost moisture content is 70-80%.

Breeding California worms at home begins in the warm season, the worms are populated in the compost by 1-3 families per 1 m2, and after a couple of months they begin to select worms that have already reproduced. The worm is selected in this way: the worm is not fed for 2-3 days so that they get a little hungry, and then 7-10 cm of fresh compost is placed on the top of the pile or box, and after a day this layer is removed. The majority of worms, up to 60-80%, enter fresh compost. Only juveniles and worm cocoons remain in the lower substrate. We repeat the procedure for sampling worms several times.

Breeding Californian worms at home as a business

It is not possible to select all the worms in this way; 3-4% remains in the processed compost, which is already a fertilizer - vermicompost. The worms selected in this way are placed in new piles, boxes, or used for sale.

With the onset of winter and temperatures below -50C, the piles must be well insulated. To do this, fresh compost or fermented manure 25-40 cm thick is placed on the piles, watered with water and covered with hay or straw 40-50 cm high. The top layer of 5-10 cm may freeze in winter, but it will not pose a mortal danger to worms, since it is a heat insulator. In the spring, the worms will feed on the top layer of compost; 2/3 of your pile will already be vermicompost.

All discus breeders know very well that the more varied the feeding of discus, the better the results will be. One such food that is fed to juvenile and adult discus fish is California worms. Let's just say that this type of food is rarely used for feeding discus fish, either because California worms are not common, or because discus breeders are unaware of the possibility of using such food. Below are the contents of a report on feeding discus fish with California worms, taken from the Internet.

Many discus lovers try to diversify their pets' diet.
Excellent food for discus fish are earthworms and, in particular, the fast-reproducing, heat-loving California red worm. A clear confirmation of these words is an excerpt from Vladimir Anisimov’s article “Trump Worms”, published in the magazine “Smena” No. 2-3 for 1992:
“... finally... he treated me to information: in the West, the Californian worm... is eaten.
— In America it is the main additive to baby food.

Breeding worms at home as a business

Japan is ready to pay $225 thousand for one kilogram of dried worm...
- How many?
- You heard right. Why is this product valuable? 70% of the worm's weight is digestible protein. I emphasize - digestible! There is not a single crop or animal with such an amount of digestible protein. We are stuffed with wheat protein - so we walk around fat. The chemical composition of “Californian” is 16 amino acids! For comparison: meat has 6 amino acids, tomatoes have three. Again, not a single plant or animal product has anything even close in calorie content."
I was able to find the following information about the California worm on the Internet.
The California red worm is a new breed of the earthworm Eisenia foetida, obtained at California State University in 1959. Its length is up to 10 cm, diameter is 3-5 mm, body weight is about 1 g, the appearance of a new generation in 21 days, the onset of puberty in 90-120 days. Earthworms are hermaphrodites. They reproduce sexually using cross-fertilization. The worms lay cocoons, from which up to 20 embryos emerge. Cocoons are visible on the body of the worm as thickenings (rims). Life expectancy is from 10 to 16 years. The offspring of two worms can reach 1.5 thousand individuals per year. After 40 days, the worm population doubles. The body of the worm contains 67-72% protein, 7-19% fat, 18-20% carbohydrates, 2¬-3% minerals, almost the entire set of amino acids that are not found in food of plant and animal origin, as well as biologically active substances.
The advantages of cultivating the Californian worm are: high fertility, low financial and time costs, simple production technology. They can be bred both on an industrial scale and in an apartment, on a balcony and in a summer cottage.
Worms can be kept at home in a box made of wood or plywood, in an old glass aquarium, or in a plastic box. They don’t crawl out of the boxes in which they are bred. Sand must be placed at the bottom (you can make holes in the bottom so that excess moisture flows into the pan) - it serves as drainage. Then a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm, a layer of food waste 3 - 5 cm, again a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm. It is recommended to add a little ground eggshell to food waste, because... “Californians” do not like acidic environments.
It is convenient to use two boxes for keeping worms. This way you can provide both a larger number of them and a safety net in case the crop dies in one of the boxes.
Californian worms live at temperatures from plus 4 to plus 40 degrees, and work actively at air temperatures of plus 15 - 25 degrees.
The habitat is a special substrate rich in organic compounds (manure, composts, organic waste and garbage), but not soil. In one day, the red Californian worm processes a mass of compost equal to its own weight.
The substrate in which the worms live must be moist. The degree of humidity of the substrate is determined as follows: take the substrate from the worm placement layer into the palm of your hand and squeeze it in your fist. If moisture comes out between the fingers, the substrate’s moisture is sufficient; if drops of water come out, then it’s over-moistened; if moisture doesn’t come out, the substrate is dry and needs to be moistened.
California worms feed only on dead plant debris that has begun to rot. Therefore, the worm's menu should consist only of plant foods. You can use any plant residues: banana and citrus peels, coffee grounds, drunken tea, potato peels, cabbage leaves, apple cores, carrot peelings, beets, spoiled and boiled vegetables and non-dairy cereals. Before feeding, it is recommended to either mince them or freeze them in the freezer. Spilled tea and coffee grounds can be placed without any processing. Worms love bread very much. You can feed the worms grass and leaves. It is not recommended to feed worms with meat waste.
The frequency of feeding depends on the number of worms in the box and the growing temperature. As the temperature approaches the optimum (25°C), the amount of food consumed by the worms increases. It should be given a little at a time every 2-3 days, trying to feed so that the unprocessed subtract does not accumulate.
From time to time you need to stir the substrate in order to improve the access of oxygen necessary for the worms to breathe.
I will briefly describe the process of feeding discus worms.
First you need to “dig up” the worms. In the place where food was recently placed, you can always find them in sufficient quantities. So there is no need to dig through the contents of the entire box.
The dug up worms can be kept in water for several hours to free them from the soil. You can simply rinse the worms several times under running water, as shown in the photo. It is convenient to use a strainer or small colander for this procedure.
Then large worms should be crushed and washed again under running water. You can also rinse it in a jar, draining the dirty water. Worms, even chopped ones, quickly sink to the bottom, and dirt sinks much more slowly.
The last stage is feeding the discus. He is, of course, the nicest.
A California worm culture kept in two plastic boxes feeds 12 adult discus fish every other day. Labor costs are minimal. Daily attention is also not required. With a little more effort you can easily increase your worm harvest. Of course, for a large aquarium farm the situation will change somewhat.
Finally, it should be noted that worms can be frozen. In the summer, Californian worms can be propagated in sufficient quantities in large containers at the dacha. And for the winter, take part of the heat-loving crop home and keep it in a box
I hope the above will help discus lovers expand the feeding diet of their pets.

Alexander Burtsev. Moscow, April 2013

Tags: Discus, feeding, California worms

Views: 17628

03.08.2017

The red Californian earthworm was bred by scientists from the American state of California (where its name comes from) as a result of breeding work back in 1959.

The worm has an elongated segmented body, slightly flattened on the abdominal side and a rich dark red (burgundy) color. An adult can reach nine centimeters in length and up to five millimeters in thickness. The invertebrate, like all representatives of the worm family, is a hermaphrodite. Life expectancy is approximately sixteen years.

Today, this variety of worms is bred on private farms, in summer cottages and orchards in order to obtain first-class “ Vermicompost", which is considered one of the best biologically active and environmentally friendly natural organic fertilizers. " Biohumus“as a result of processing organic plant residues, and it is this work that Californian worms successfully do, grinding and fertilizing the soil.

Invertebrates are also excellent nutritious food for poultry and are widely used in recreational fishing as highly effective fish bait.

Acquisition

To obtain high-quality Vermicompost“It is necessary to purchase Californian earthworms. This can be done in specialized farms. You should not buy worms from your own hands, because you will not receive guarantees that they were not dug up a kilometer from your home. At a minimum, an enterprise or farm that trades in California worms must have a special permit issued by the services that control their activities.

It is advisable to purchase worms in large quantities at once (at least one and a half thousand individuals), because only this size of the colony will have genetic stability. When purchasing, you must choose live and lively worms that have a juicy red color, and the initial population must contain both young animals and invertebrate cocoons.

During the course of a day, one adult individual is capable of processing an amount of organic matter that is equal to its own weight.

In a favorable environment, a colony of the Californian worm can increase more than five hundred (!) times within a year. Even in natural conditions, the density of worms can range from one hundred to twenty thousand (!) individuals per square meter of soil.

Preparation of nutrient substrate

The optimal nutrient medium for growing California worms is compost (a heap or pit), which is preliminarily filled with rotted manure (if fresh is added, the worms will die), chicken droppings, grass clippings, food waste (potato peelings, peels of fruits, vegetables and root crops, tops ) and carrion.

It is advisable to grind large waste fractions or grind them in a meat grinder, since worms do not have teeth and therefore are not able to chew food.

You should not put citrus waste into compost, as it can increase the acidity of the substrate, and worms will not survive in an acidic and fermented environment. For this reason, it is advisable to add crushed eggshells and fine river sand to the compost, the grains of which help invertebrates digest food better.

It must be remembered that worms feed exclusively on rotted plant debris, so it is better not to put the remains of animal food in the compost.

Excellent food for invertebrates are waste fermented milk products, spoiled baked goods, used tea leaves and coffee grounds.

It is advisable to carefully turn the compost from time to time (so as not to harm the growing population), to ensure access of oxygen inside the substrate.

The quality of the finished compost can be checked in the following way: several adult worms are placed on the damp surface of the substrate and then observed. If the subjects do not crawl inside, but remain on top for a long time, it means that the environment is not suitable for their existence and additional composting is required.

To avoid an unpleasant odor and prevent the appearance of all kinds of insects, in particular flies and fruit flies, it is better to build a compost pit away from residential buildings, somewhere in the shade of trees.

During the winter, the compost pit with worms must be covered with durable plastic film.

Breeding worms

To breed California worms you will need two containers (larger and smaller). A smaller container should have a perforated bottom to allow excess moisture to drain through the holes, as these invertebrates react very poorly to excess moisture.

The prepared substrate is placed in a smaller container and the worms are introduced into it, after which it is placed in a larger container that acts as a tray. It is advisable to cover the top of the worms with a thick cloth.

The humidity of the substrate must be at least thirty-five percent. To moisten it, it is advisable to take water not from the tap, since the chlorine content in it can be destructive for the worms, but use either rainwater or let it sit for some time.

By the way, the water that will pass through the substrate layer and accumulate in the second container is an excellent valuable fertilizer, since it washes out “Veriohumus” from the first container. This water is popularly called “vermicha” and is useful for watering indoor flowers and seedlings.

It is advisable to feed invertebrates only after they have eaten the previous portion of food, so as not to provoke the fermentation process.

The optimal temperature for the life of the colony should be about twenty-five degrees plus. When the temperature drops, the worms will feed and reproduce less well, and at five degrees Celsius they may even die.

It is noteworthy that, unlike their ordinary counterparts, California worms do not crawl to the surface during rain, preferring to remain in the substrate.

Useful properties of "Veriohumus"

Ready " Biohumus“It has no odor and smells like ordinary soil, although it exceeds ordinary humus in humus content by eight (!) times, so its application perfectly heals and fertilizes the soil.

« Biohumus"contains a huge variety of enzymes, growth hormones and biologically active substances. It is impossible to “overdo it” and “overdo it” with applying this fertilizer to the soil!

The table below demonstrates only some of the beneficial microelements contained in Vermicompost:

	Up to 35 percent
Nitrogen content	Up to 2 percent
Phosphorus content	Up to 2 percent
Potassium content	Up to 1.2 percent
Magnesium content	Up to 0.5 percent
Calcium content	Up to 3 percent

« Biohumus", as a rule, is applied to the soil in the spring, pouring it into previously prepared holes or rows intended for sowing seeds of cultivated plants, and is also added to the soil for growing indoor and ornamental plants.

Water infusions " Vermicompost» used for pre-soaking seeds, which significantly improves their germination, or used for watering seedlings and feeding flowers.

Why do they keep and breed such seemingly unattractive creatures as earthworms?

Mainly for the production of vermicompost. Vermicompost is a valuable organic fertilizer, the main waste product of worms. The worms themselves can also be used as food for various pets (fish, amphibians and reptiles, as well as some species of birds and rodents). But since my pets (cat and Japanese finch) categorically refused to eat worms, I keep worms exclusively to obtain vermicompost. The bulk of the worm population lives in my summer cottage. There is a special worm hutch equipped there, which is covered with spruce branches and film for the winter. But I also keep some worms in my city apartment.

They live in a terrarium, in the bottom of which a number of holes are made so that excess moisture does not accumulate. Naturally, the terrarium should stand on some kind of pallet. The terrarium is located in a dark corner under the table because the worms do not like light.

Worms feed on almost any organic matter - potato peelings, various kinds of kitchen waste, used tea and coffee infusions, bread crusts, soaked newspapers, etc. You should not overuse citrus fruits (lemon, orange and tangerine peels), they strongly acidify the substrate. It is also better to refrain from using animal waste - meat, egg whites and yolks, etc. - mainly for two reasons, firstly, because of the unpleasant odor that occurs when animal protein decomposes, and, secondly, if you breed worms in the country, meat and other animal waste can attract rats and mice. Worms do not eat animal fats (milk, etc.).

Some people say that you shouldn't feed animal protein to worms because worms are vegetarians. But they are more likely to be scavengers than vegetarians. In my opinion, decomposed vegetable protein is not very different from decomposed animal protein. Although it is possible that worms prefer plant protein, they are also capable of eating animal protein. After all, they feed on the simplest nematodes. There are very few animals in nature that have strict dietary restrictions; There are very few absolute vegetarians or absolute carnivores. Cats and dogs, being carnivores, enjoy eating grass. Cows, along with grass, absorb a sufficient amount of animal protein in the form of insects and other small animals. The absence of strict food restrictions allows animals to adapt to changing environmental conditions. As an example, we can cite pigs, whose ancestors are known to have been predators. But let's get back to the worms.

From time to time the worms need to be given eggshells and fine sand. Sand serves worms in the same way as pebbles serve chickens - to improve digestion. Of course, all food given to worms must be put through a meat grinder or crushed in another way, since worms do not have teeth and cannot chew food. In addition to all this, you should not forget about watering, since if the substrate humidity is less than 35%, your worms will die within a week. Under no circumstances should you use chlorinated water for irrigation. Chlorine is poison for worms. Either rainwater or well-settled water is used.

I add food periodically in small layers. When the terrarium is full, I transplant the worms with part of the old substrate into another terrarium, and start everything over again. And vermicompost from the old terrarium is ready for use. Worms can be transplanted manually, but this is a rather tedious task. It is better to stop feeding the worms for a while and let them get hungry. Then place on top straw cuttings or torn paper soaked in a sugar solution. You can use the pulp of vegetables and fruits. In two or three days, most of the hungry worms will rise up to new food, from where they can be collected. In one day, one worm can process an amount of organic matter equal to its own weight. And the average weight of an earthworm is 0.5 g. I don’t presume to say what the optimal density of worms in a worm house (terrarium) should be. Under natural conditions, the density of worms ranges from 100 to 20,000 individuals per square meter.
I use vermicompost produced by worms for indoor flowers and seedlings. This way I save money and get a product that I have confidence in. Because you can never say exactly where the soil you bought in the store came from. From the items that I found in bags of flower and garden soil, one could make a fairly extensive exhibition - stones, sticks, bones, and even an entire anthill with live ants and ant eggs. If you use vermicompost for indoor flowers, individual worms or their cocoons may accidentally get into the flower pot. Some gardeners, for some reason, are afraid of this. However, worms cannot cause any harm to flowers. They do not gnaw roots, because, as I already said, they do not have teeth. They can only eat a rotten root, but with rotten roots, the plant will die without worms. But if you are uncomfortable with the idea that there are worms living in your flower pot, then it is easier to simply pick them out by hand than to try to poison them with something or, as some people advise, to put the pot in water and wait for the worms to choke. This can only destroy the plant. Worms can live in water for quite a long time (up to a week).

Some unpleasant moments that may arise when breeding worms.

This is, firstly, the smell of the waste that you feed the worms, and, secondly, the appearance of all kinds of extraneous insects. Ready biohumus has no unpleasant odor, it smells like ordinary earth. In addition, worms secrete certain substances that serve as a kind of deodorant. However, newly placed food that the worms have not yet begun to eat may emit an odor. Much here depends on the type of food; soaked newspapers or tea leaves do not emit a special smell, but coffee leaves even have a quite pleasant smell. But if there is animal protein in the food, the smell can be quite nasty. In this case, the new feed should be sprinkled with ready-made vermicompost. Some, however, use EM preparations, like Baikal or Vozrozhdenie, to combat unpleasant odors. Personally, in the fall I bring a certain amount of soil from the dacha and periodically sprinkle the substrate with it. I think that this is also good for seedlings, since vermicompost is similar in its properties to the soil in which the seedlings will grow in the summer.
As for insects, most often the substrate contains fruit flies, and sometimes fools. By themselves, these creatures are completely harmless. They cannot harm worms. Rather the opposite. It is known that worms feed on protozoa nematodes, bacteria, fungal spores and other microflora and microfauna. True, I don’t know whether the worms eat the eggs and larvae of fruit flies or worms. Be that as it may, it’s unlikely that anyone will like the presence of various midges in the apartment. Since the appearance of these insects is primarily associated with the increased humidity of the substrate with which you feed the worms, you can fight them by reducing watering (but without stopping completely, so as not to kill the worms). As someone suggested to me on one forum, you can use sticky fly tape to kill fruit flies if you stick it in strips on the lid of the terrarium. Podur can be caught using a piece of raw potato. They love it very much and gather on it in large numbers. You should not use pesticides; you can poison worms.

Where to get worms?
1. buy red Californian worms.
2. buy specially bred Russian (for example, Vladimir)
3. dig up in the garden, in the forest, collect on the street after rain.

Before discussing these three options, I will make one important aside. Whatever option you choose, you still won’t be able to find exactly the same food for the worms that they are used to. And the main advantage of keeping worms is that you can get valuable fertilizer from your free waste. There are different opinions about how easily worms switch to new food. Professor Igonin used to be of the opinion that worms have a rather difficult time getting used to new food. Some of his colleagues believe that this is not such a significant issue. And Anatoly Mikhailovich himself (after he started selling “Vladimir Prospectors” :) now speaks less categorically. Judging by my experience, I can say that it is not worth suddenly switching worms to a new food. You can lose, if not the entire population, then most of it. It is good if by this time the worms have already laid cocoons. Young, newly born worms become accustomed to the food they tried at birth. If it is still necessary to transfer the worms to a new food, then this should be done gradually, gradually mixing it into the old one.
From this point of view, consider all three of the above options. Since the ability to adapt to new conditions depends to a large extent on the worms themselves. If you decide to buy “Californians”, then make sure that they are selling you really Californian worms, and not ordinary ones dug up right here under the fence. Sometimes nematodes are sold under the guise of juvenile worms. The seller must have a permit to sell worms issued by the quarantine service. Red Californian worms are highly productive, but are quite picky about the substrate and living conditions. They are only suitable for home keeping, that is, they live only in warm conditions. If you want to settle them in the country, then most likely they will freeze in the first winter. As for the Vladimir worms, they are undoubtedly more adapted to our conditions. This is a good option if you don't mind spending money on worms. If you are going to keep worms not only at home, but also in the country, or only in the country, then, in my opinion, it is better for you to dig them up in a nearby forest or in a field. And move them to your worm shed. These will be the worms most adapted to your conditions. Do not forget to just dig them up along with the ground, and gradually add your new food to this ground. The most adaptable of those that I have seen, in my opinion, are the Moscow worms, which I picked up on the street after the rain. Apparently they are so accustomed to living in difficult urban conditions and eating all sorts of rubbish that they are not so easy to lime.
Well, in a nutshell, that's all. Read more about worms in A.M. Igonina "How to increase soil fertility tenfold with the help of earthworms."

Dmitry Lyalin.

More about vermicompost

Composition of biohumus and its properties
The main product of compost processing using technological worms is the humic organic fertilizer vermicompost - worm compost.

Biohumus of 50% humidity contains 12-15% of humus.
The agrochemical value of dry vermicompost is as follows:
. humus - 25-35%;
. nitrogen - 0.8-2%;
. phosphorus - 0.8-2%;
. potassium - 0.7-1.2%;
. magnesium - 0.3-0.5%;
. calcium - 2-3%;
. acidity pH = 6.9-7.2;
. microflora - 2*10**12 cells/g;
. fulvic, humic acids;
and all this in a balanced way.

Biohumus is also a microbiological fertilizer. Adding it improves the soil health. Biocompost exceeds manure and composts in humus content by 4-8 times. Vermicompost contains a large amount of enzymes, vitamins, soil antibiotics, plant growth hormones and other biologically active substances. The duration of action of vermicompost is 5 years.

Unlike manure, vermicompost is not inert - plants react immediately to it. When using vermicompost, the growing season for plants is reduced by 1.5-2 weeks. It has been proven that the humates contained in vermicompost are non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, non-mutagenic, and non-toxic to embryos. Vermicompost does not contain weed seeds. Vermicompost has no odor and is pleasant to hold in your hands.
During storage, vermicompost may even dry out, but will not lose its qualities.

Using vermicompost
Vermicompost can be applied in the spring when digging, it can be poured into holes for seedlings, into rows for sowing seeds.

Vermicompost is added to planting mixtures for growing seedlings and indoor plants.

It is impossible to “over-salt” the soil with vermicompost; the more you add, the better.

Vermicompost can be infused in water and watered with the infusion on plants.

The use of mineral fertilizers mixed with vermicompost is extremely effective.

Norms for applying vermicompost
Since vermicompost has to be saved, its application rates are as follows:
. when planting seedlings in the ground, add 1-2 handfuls of vermicompost to the hole;
. when planting tomato seedlings, add 0.5-1 liters of vermicompost to the hole;
. for potatoes, 0.5-1 liters of vermicompost with each potato;
. mulch the soil under the cucumbers with vermicompost in a layer of 1-2 cm;
. mulch the soil under the strawberries with vermicompost with a layer of 1-2 cm;
. Do not dig up the soil under fruit trees, but mulch annually with a 2-3 cm layer of vermicompost;
The Master Ground company, which supplies vermicompost fertilizer, recommends the following application rates:
. flowers - 0.5-1.5 kg/sq.m;
. vegetables - up to 2 kg/sq.m or 150 g/linear m;
. berry - 0.5-1.0 kg per bush;
. fruit - 1-2 kg for each tree;

Water infusion of vermicompost
An aqueous infusion of vermicompost is used for soaking seeds, watering seedlings, indoor plants, and garden crops.
Mix 1 cup of dry humus fertilizer in 1 bucket of water and let it sit for 24 hours. The water takes on the color of tea. The sediment can be used to feed indoor flowers.
The resulting infusion is used to soak the seeds of cabbage, cucumbers, and tomatoes for 12 hours.

To water the plants, the infusion is diluted with two more parts of water.

Spraying plants with infusion is effective. Spray fruit trees and shrubs after flowering, when the ovary falls, during the period of fruit growth and the formation of flower buds (early August). When spraying fruit trees and bushes with vermicompost infusion in combination with mulching the soil under the crowns with vermicompost, a layer of 1-2 cm, their fruiting becomes regular.

Spraying flower crops three times with an interval of one week accelerates flowering by 1-1.5 weeks.

Soil composition
The basis of the soil - soil minerals make up 80-90% of the weight. They, as a rule, contain almost the entire periodic table, but in a form inaccessible to plants. The smallest particles or flakes of minerals form clay soils, larger ones form loams, and even larger ones form sandy loams and sands. The smallest particles that form clay minerals are in the form of flakes, so their total surface area is huge and they are able to retain ions of elements on their surface in a form accessible for plant nutrition. Some soil microorganisms, with sufficient moisture and heat, are able to dissolve the mineral particles themselves, making the chemical elements bound in them available to plants.
Clay is potentially fertile soil. Tatyana Ugarova calls it “virtually inexhaustible clay minerals.”
Another component of the soil is organic matter, and its most valuable part is humus - the smallest colloidal particles of organic matter, which have an even larger surface and even better retain ions of elements in a form available for plant nutrition. Humus is a repository of basic nutrients. Small clay and humus particles form compounds of the clay-humus complex, which retains nutrients. This is why it is so important to add some loam to your compost pile.
The third component of the soil is its living component - a community of various soil microorganisms - bacteria, fungi, ciliates, amoebas, algae, microscopic worms, etc. Their biomass in the upper 25 cm layer of soil can reach 1.0-1.5 kg/sq.m. soil and more. Soil microorganisms play a major role in the formation of soil fertility. The majority of microorganisms are bacteria.

Features of light soil
Light sandy soils are easily washed, soluble nutrients, along with water, go to great depths and are lost to plants. Therefore, such soils usually lack potassium, magnesium, and trace elements. But fertilizers should be applied to sandy soils not in autumn, but in spring (main dressing) and summer (in the form of dressings), but at half the dose than on clay soils. Such soils dry out quickly, but are well aerated. Organic fertilizers on sandy soils quickly overripe (mineralize), so they need to be applied more and more often.
Sandy soils are less suitable for gardening than loamy ones. To improve the cohesion of sandy soils, in addition to manure, peat and compost are introduced. If possible, claying is carried out - surface application of clay or loam. When planting gardens in planting pits for fruit trees, it is very effective to make 2-3 screens of composted clay with manure with a layer of 2-4 cm every 20 cm.

Heavy soil and stagnant water
If heavy clay soils have little organic matter, they drain water very poorly. They can accumulate excess carbon dioxide, and although carbon dioxide dissolves some minerals, excess is harmful to plants.
If there are poorly permeable layers of soil at depth, then even small depressions on the soil surface can cause stagnation of water in the soil. The same thing happens when there is a close groundwater level. Stagnant water displaces the air in the soil, resulting in acidification (gleyization) of the soil, which is expressed in the appearance of blue spots with an increased content of substances harmful to plants. Beneficial soil microorganisms are inhibited, and harmful anerobic microflora develops. But if the garden is located on a slope and the water moves slowly through the layers of soil, then there are no negative consequences.

Mandatory digging before winter, loosening and systematic application of organic matter - manure, peat, compost, and for acidic soils, the addition of lime improves the permeability and structure of clay soils.

Soil structure
Soil rich in microorganisms is glued together by mineral and organic colloidal particles into small lumps that do not fit tightly together, which allows air to penetrate deep into the soil and water not to linger on the surface and wet the soil. The humus-rich clay crumbles into small lumps. The passages of microscopic and earthworms, cavities of dead plant roots also improve aeration and permeability of the soil.

Adding lime to heavy clay acidic soil also improves its permeability and structure.

Soil microorganisms
Some soil microorganisms decompose organic matter introduced into the soil, promote the formation of humus, and make nutrients available to plants, others bind atmospheric nitrogen, synthesize organic compounds, and the next convert these compounds into forms accessible to plants. Soil microorganisms convert phosphorus into a soluble state, even decompose minerals, and first of all, practically inexhaustible clay minerals, delivering the entire “periodic table” to plants. Some plants are unable to develop normally without certain microflora. As a result of the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms, the soil becomes structured and crumbly.

The lifespan of bacteria and other soil microorganisms can be very short - from days to several hours. If there is food, warmth and humidity, they multiply very quickly, and die off very quickly if the “food” runs out. But their biomass and waste products constitute the very “nutrient broth” for plants, which includes not only simple compounds for plant nutrition, but also amino acids, vitamins, auxins, antibiotics and many other nutrients and plant growth stimulants.

Most beneficial soil microorganisms are most favored by a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction of pH 6.5-7.0 in the presence of moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 15-30°C. Organic matter is needed to feed soil microorganisms. There are two ways for organic matter to enter the soil - root excretions of plants with post-harvest residues and the introduction of organic matter into the soil from the outside, in the form of compost, manure, green manure, etc.

Root discharge
Plants do not remain indebted to microorganisms - living plants feed soil microorganisms with their root secretions, and not just with dying post-harvest residues, although roots also make up about a third of the plant's mass. Tatyana Ugarova gives a figure - up to 20% of the total mass of plants is root secretions. The composition of root secretions includes organic acids, sugars, amino acids and much more. According to T. Ugarova, a strong plant abundantly feeds soil microorganisms, and a massive proliferation of rhizosphere (root) beneficial microflora occurs. Moreover, plants stimulate the development of predominantly microflora that nourishes plants, produces plant growth stimulants, and suppresses microflora harmful to plants.
Composting is an art
- this is how the exceptional importance of compost for the garden is now assessed. Unfortunately, we still pay very little attention to the correct preparation of compost (if at all). And properly prepared compost is the basis, the guarantee of the future harvest.
When preparing compost, it is important to add some loam (clay garden soil). Loam also serves as a source of soil microorganisms - "sourdough" and binds nutrients formed during the maturation of compost as part of clay-humus complexes. In particular, clay-humus complexes arise when soil particles are mixed in the intestines of an earthworm, which is why the effectiveness of worm compost - vermicompost, which is also enriched with beneficial microflora from the worm's stomach - is so great.
Briefly, the sequence of layers of the compost heap: 15-20 cm of grass and similar waste, sprinkle with ash, dolomite or lime 300-600 g/sq.m. meter, and sprinkle everything with clay garden soil - approximately a 2 cm layer. And so several times. The compost should be watered through a sprayer (or from a watering can) to keep the pile constantly moist.
Adding compost to the surface of the beds enriches the soil with microorganisms, revitalizes it, and does not at all come down to a simple conversion to nutrients N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). Be sure to prepare compost for your garden!

It is curious that in the Mitlider method using boxes without a bottom filled with a mixture of sawdust and sand, by the end of the first season the sawdust turns into crumbly, humus-rich loose soil, saturated with soil microorganisms, which in its effect on the underlying soil and plants is very similar to a layer of compost in the garden! (But remember - you cannot dig up fresh sawdust with soil!)
Beds after harvest
Loose, humus-rich soil should not be left bare, not covered with plants or a layer of organic mulch, which provide food for soil bacteria and create conditions for their life, protecting the soil from drying out and weathering. Therefore, if you have bare beds left after harvesting, sow any crop as a ground cover, like green manure. In the spring, mow the plants - place the tops in compost, and the roots remaining in the beds, which have absorbed nutrients, will give them back to the soil, preserving its fertility.

conclusions
. All beds, including Mitlider's narrow soil beds, require the introduction of humus - well-rotted manure or compost, vermicompost, which enrich the soil with beneficial soil microflora and humus, which increases the soil's ability to retain nutrients.
. Thus, a combination of organic and complex mineral fertilizers can increase soil fertility faster than using each type of fertilizer separately.
. Vegetables are most beneficial when grown without nutritional deficiencies. But over time, a nutritional deficiency of some macro and micro elements may arise, even if at first there was plenty of everything. Each area may have its own shortage of macro and micro elements. Therefore, fertilizing with corrective fertilizers is necessary.
. Most beneficial soil microorganisms are most favored by a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction of pH 6.5-7.0, in the presence of moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 12-30°C.
. Very light, sandy soil requires the addition of peat and clay - claying, peaty soil - sand and loam. Excess water should be removed by carrying out drainage work.
. The ground should not be left bare - the soil should be covered with either plants (or lawn) or a layer of organic mulch. The addition of compost and manure humus to the beds plays an extremely important role in enriching the soil with microorganisms.

Numerous fishing enthusiasts are well acquainted with such an indispensable attribute of their hobby as California red worms, but even the most avid of them do not always know that this is the name of what they use as bait. And even more so, they do not suspect that they can be used not only in this capacity, but also in at least several others.

Types of earthworms

Let's start with the fact that worms are the most common species of invertebrates on the entire planet, and their habitat does not include Antarctica. In fact, there are a huge number of their types and subspecies. Biologists distinguish three main categories, depending on the behavior of worms in their natural environment. These are Anecic, Endogeic and Epigeic.

The first species “prefers” to exist on the surface of the ground, and these worms dig holes deeper, usually vertically downwards. The main food for this species is organic matter, which they process into humus. This category is characterized by an immediate decline in activity and ability to reproduce when moving from their usual habitat to any other, including artificial, which, for example, is necessary when breeding them. This variety plays a vital role in soil formation, and its practical use is limited to natural soil formation without human intervention. Plus, anglers use it as bait.

The second type “prefers” more mineralized soil, which contains significantly less organic matter. Worms of this category dig horizontal holes, do not like the surface and need constant soil processing. Thus, they saturate the earth with various nutrients, enriching it for further use by vegetation, and also increase the oxygen content in it. The use of this variety of earthworms is also mostly uncontrolled and is mainly natural.

The third type is the one that will be discussed in the article, since it is the Californian worms, as they are also called, that can easily tolerate artificial living conditions, and their use has specific economic benefits. This variety prefers the top layer of soil for life, and, to be more precise, all kinds of organic matter, which it is so rich in. These are leaves, remains of trees, bark, and so on. Californian worms do not dig deep and branched systems of burrows.

The popularity of this species from an economic point of view is due to the possibility of its breeding in artificial habitats. The main factor is only the presence of a sufficient amount of organic material, which is quite easy to implement, and also the absence of the need to use a deep layer of soil. Farming California worms involves a number of important technical issues that must be taken into account.

Worm business

To understand the basics of worm breeding, it is necessary to give several definitions that are used by professionals in this field of activity.

Compost is a fertilizer obtained from organic waste as a result of its decomposition with the direct participation of microorganisms. The most common sources for its production are peat, manure, bird droppings, foliage and a variety of garden waste.

Vermicompost, or vermicompost, is a product of compost processing by earthworms, bacteria and some other organisms. In particular, Californian worms can be used as a result of certain breeding work to improve the overall quality of fertilizers obtained as a result of production activities.

The production of vermicompost is the main driving force of the worm farming business, since this product is in certain demand. And not only within the domestic segment of agricultural activity, but even abroad, which should also be thought about when preparing plans for the development of your own business in this area. And although such a business may include the very distribution of worms and their cocoons as a completely self-sufficient part of it, vermicompost represents the most profitable investment.

Using vermicompost

The most common use of this fertilizer is associated with the cultivation of various vegetable crops. This applies not only to greenhouse forms such as tomatoes or cucumbers, but also to potatoes. The increase in productivity achieved using vermicompost reaches 40%. Also, vermicompost is extremely effective when growing strawberries, wild strawberries and other types of berries cultivated in various regions. At the same time, they are characterized by an increase in productivity of up to 60%. Obviously, the use of this fertilizer is in good demand, which means it can be easily sold and made money from it.

We should not forget about the rich importers of vermicompost. For example, countries in the Arab world, in particular the UAE, widely use vermicompost to grow various crops, harvesting up to three harvests per season. At the same time, they pay well for high-quality vermicompost. Thus, the cost of one ton of products fluctuates in the range of 2 thousand dollars. In Europe, vermicompost is bought for 600 euros, which also looks very attractive. In Russia, these products are not so valuable; for example, a forty-liter package costs about 400 rubles. That is, with a competent approach to advertising and sales, you can still make money by selling vermicompost. However, to get into this market, you will have to work hard and not only earn a good name, but also create a truly effective production structure.

Basic Economy

Since this article discusses the cultivation of the Californian worm, you should know the main advantages of its use from an economic point of view. And although there is an opinion among people about the incredible characteristics of this variety, you still shouldn’t fall for it. Advertising activity in this area really inflates the numbers to incredible proportions. California red worms are reported to live up to 15-16 years, which is a common misconception. In fact, the life expectancy of individuals is not very different from that of their domestic relatives, amounting to a period of 5-6 years.

California worms supposedly exist in temperature conditions from 2 to 40 degrees. This is also not true, their activity practically disappears at 35 degrees, not to mention the fact that at 4 degrees they begin to die. In general, all advertising gimmicks are quite obvious. Despite all this, the Californian worm still has some advantages over its domestic counterparts, so it is profitable to buy it specifically for creating your own business.

Real advantages

Among the widely advertised advantages that actually take place, one can mention activity even in the winter season, which cannot be said about the rain variety, as well as the compactness of the populations in which Californian worms prefer to live (photos of them, by the way, can be seen at the beginning of the review).
In addition, it is necessary to note the higher level of reproduction of this species in comparison with the usual one. And although there is also an advertising exaggeration here, the figures are quoted almost tens of times, in fact this figure is somewhere between one and a half to two times higher. So California worms still have obvious advantages, which determines the choice of many zealous owners.

Breeding

The breeding process can be considered in two main types: industrial, when work with a large number of individuals is necessary, and home, when an ordinary garden plot can also become a source of good income.

Breeding Californian worms requires proper organization of activities and following certain instructions. Let's consider the main points of creating your own business, first within a garden plot, and then in an industrial setting.

Vegetable farming

The California worm is purchased in the form of either adults, or fry, or in cocoons, depending on the season, financial capabilities, etc. In the garden plot, it is necessary to prepare a square hole one meter by meter and about 70 cm deep. To prevent the worms from leaving To explore the open spaces of the garden community, you should compact its lower surface and cover the walls with boards. The nutrient medium, or, as it is also called, the substrate with worms, is dumped into the hole and carefully leveled with a pitchfork. A layer of plain substrate is then added. To obtain vermicompost, it is necessary to carry out the so-called worm extraction.

Naturally, before obtaining vermicompost of normal quality, several weeks must pass so that the worms have time to process the nutrient medium. Extraction involves adding a layer of substrate on top, thoroughly loosening it, after which the worms crawl into this top layer. Next, you need to carefully remove this layer, saturated with them, and transfer it to a new pit to continue the vermicompost creation cycle. The average drawing time is about three to four weeks.

The resulting layer of processed compost is sifted, dried, after which it can be sold at a price that an enterprising businessman can negotiate with the fertilizer customer. Well, the worms continue their work in the next pit, performing the cycle of producing new products. This is how Californian worms are mainly used at home.

Another important point is the production of the substrate. The waste on hand is crushed. This can be paper, straw, tops or any other organic filler. The resulting mass is located near the pit and watered with liquid manure. The humidity that needs to be created is about 80%. Checking whether this mass is sufficiently moistened is very simple. If nearby worms do not crawl into it, you must continue to water. The substrate must be loosened once every two weeks.

From the point of view of small investments in the business, it is the California worm that is convenient. Breeding at home does not require serious investment, you just need a sufficient amount of patience and interest in this matter, since, obviously, you have to deal with creatures swarming in the ground and in the presence of not very pleasant odors. In any case, this is a job for true enthusiasts.

Industrial volumes

If we are talking about a professional approach to how to breed the California worm, then there are certain nuances. In the previous section we talked about the number of individuals being 10-20 thousand. When the conversation turns to a volume of a million worms, the approach is somewhat different.

This requires from 10 to 15 sq. meters of area indoors. The temperature that must be maintained is in the range of 15 to 30 degrees Celsius. Natural ventilation and artificial lighting will be required, plus a water supply, preferably non-domestic, since chlorinated water can destroy the entire population. Well or river water is quite suitable.

Careful attention should be paid to protecting the premises from rodents, which can easily destroy a significant part of the colony. That is, you will need a hard covering of the floor and walls. The height of the queen cell should be from two to two and a half meters. Breeding California worms as a business is an activity that requires the same careful preparation as any high-tech field.

You will also need to purchase racks on which trays with worm colonies will be located. It is best to use perforated plastic boxes to ensure the required level of oxygen and easy removal of excess liquid. In each tray, a population density of up to 20 thousand individuals should be planned.

To make the substrate indoors, it is necessary to spread the manure or planned organic waste in a layer of 20 cm and cover it with film. The temperature should be around 55 degrees Celsius. After a day, the resulting mass must be brought to 30 degrees and moistened to 80%. The resulting substrate is laid out in boxes in a layer of 5 cm. At the same time, good ventilation should be remembered in order to remove the resulting gases from the room.

The next stage is for the worms to get used to their new climate, and then to the substrate. Boxes of new food mixture are placed on top of the worm trays. Further actions are simply maintaining the optimal level of humidity in the trays. When the worms have processed the substrate, the resulting vermicompost is separated, dried, sifted and sold to customers.

Thus, the red Californian worm, the breeding of which can be put on stream, can bring a decent income to an enterprising rural resident.

Some technical points

The issues discussed in the article quite generally reveal an area that has decent technology, not adhering to which can easily ruin many weeks of painstaking work. The main driving force of the business is California worms. How to breed them is a whole layer of technology that a beginner should know, adjusting environmental conditions to the unpretentious needs of their “workers”. However, there are still a couple of important questions. For example, what are California worm cocoons and where can I get them?

In fact, worms lay eggs immediately after mating. Of course, this is very different from the system used by birds, for example, but the principle is similar. The worms carry out copulation, after which they form a so-called cocoon in the body, which separates and then, when opened, can contain from one to five small individuals.

There are specialized agricultural companies involved in the supply of this biomass. By the way, as part of your own worm business, you can create a branch of cocoon breeding activities. There is a separate technology for this, which an entrepreneur can also take note of and master.

The convenience of using cocoons in the worm business is due to obvious conditions. The most important thing is transportation, and from a breeding point of view, also the value of this product. Therefore, you should also pay attention to this feature of worm breeding when designing your own business related to their breeding.

Conclusion

As already mentioned, there is some advertising euphoria associated with the incredible qualities that California worms supposedly possess. Reviews from the public vary quite widely: from laudatory to derogatory. However, obviously, there are certain advantages of this type of worms over the same earthworms, especially from the point of view of creating your own business for breeding them. Good ability to reproduce, unpretentiousness, improving the quality of fertilizers, in the creation of which they take the most important part - this is not a complete list of advantages.

In addition, there are at least several aspects of the use of Californian worms. Firstly, this is the actual creation of vermicompost as the most valuable and sought-after product on the modern agricultural market. Moreover, the demand for it has continued to grow steadily over the past few years. With the increase in production capacity, new opportunities for implementation will appear. Thus, the United Arab Emirates is already purchasing vermicompost for exorbitant amounts of money. Of course, this will require hard work, but if an entrepreneur has a desire to produce in this area, then entering the international market is quite possible.

Secondly, such a business will obviously increase the number of worms on an improvised farm, if, again, the owner strictly follows the technology. This means that you can sell the “producer” itself, without reducing capacity, but, on the contrary, increasing the number and improving their living conditions.

Thirdly, you can start supplying so-called cocoons, that is, the offspring of the population. And this is another effective way to make money in the field of worm breeding.

In general, this activity requires not only careful planning, but also a certain amount of enthusiasm and desire to tinker with manure and other, to put it mildly, not the most fragrant substances. So the business is unusual and for a certain circle of people it can become a source of good stable income and a way of self-expression in trying to make this world a little better. In addition, it does not require special investments. Of course, the size of the initial investment depends on the scale of the entrepreneur, but, as a rule, at first, a thousand dollars will be more than enough to start a business.