Vine weaving lessons. Weaving baskets from a vine for beginners: how to weave with your own hands with video tutorials. Choosing the right material

The ancient art of wicker weaving has become fashionable in this age of plastic and metal, although there is an alternative to natural material - artificial rattan. Things twisted from natural shoots evoke positive emotions in people. A person, engaged in weaving from willow twigs, maintains a connection with nature, retains knowledge about a useful craft. Making wicker products from a vine with your own hands is both an exciting hobby and a good material help.

Weaving includes several stages. The first point of the step-by-step instructions for weaving from a vine for beginners is the collection and processing of raw materials.

Weave products from any flexible branches. Grapes, turf, bird cherry stalks are suitable for work. However, out of competition - young willow twigs, strong and elastic. Before the inhabitant of the middle lane, the problem of where to get the vine is not worth it. Her bushes grow near large and small reservoirs. All species are suitable for production, except for brittle willow and other fragile varieties. Three patterns are best for weaving , widespread in Russia, Belarus and other countries of the former Soviet Union:

In nature, there are at least 160 varieties of willows. For braiding, cultivated species are grown - purple, rod-shaped. They work with cleaned (barked) and uncleaned (non-barked) raw materials. The peeled branches are used to make fine things - kitchen utensils, decorative items. Unpeeled ones are suitable for household items - baskets, boxes, fences.

cutting branches

Harvesting of vines for weaving baskets and other things is carried out throughout the year, except for June - July, when there is a rapid growth of shoots. The material collected in different periods differs in technological properties.

Before cutting, the branch is checked for flexibility - wrapped around the finger. A suitable twig will stand the test, it will not break. Cut the stems with a knife obliquely in one fell swoop, leaving no notches at the end. Choose annual and biennial twigs growing at the base of a tree or from the ground - they are long, less overgrown with foliage. The vine is sorted during collection into three types:

• large - length more than 2 m, cut diameter from 10 to 15 mm, tied in armfuls of 25 pieces;
• medium - from 1 to 2 meters, cross section from 6 to 10 mm, collected in bundles of 50 pieces;
• small - up to 1 m, in diameter from 2 to 6 mm, bundles of 100 pcs.

Pay attention to the quality of the trunk - take an even, intact, uniform color. Spots, wormholes are not allowed. If the stem smells of rot, does not shine, it is thrown away. Going for a vine, they take a bag, a rope, gloves, a knife, in spring and summer - a pinch.

The rods collected in May or at the end of summer are called juice. They are herbaceous, the bark is easily removed, white. They clean such a vine immediately so that it does not dry out. If the procedure is delayed, then the willow is moistened before sanding. Cleaning technique:

• cut the bark - take a sharp knife, lead the blade along from the warp (butt) to the top;
• do not press hard so as not to damage the wood layer;
• gently peel the white rod, moving to the top, and then towards the butt.

A special tool for debarking is a pinch. The device is made of wire, metal, wood. The simplest pattern is in the form of a slingshot. Two large nails are driven in side by side into a stable place, twisted from below with wire, and the top is pushed apart. Insert the vine into the pinch with the base, hold it with your left hand, and pull it towards you with your right hand. The bark is removed from one side or from two at once.

Features of the autumn vine

Autumn rods are distinguished by a variety of shades, they are used unrooted, colored patterns are woven. They are poorly cleaned, in order to obtain debarked stems, the vine must be prepared - boiled or revived.

The raw materials are boiled for 0.5-1.5 hours, then they are taken out in small batches, cooled under cold water, and cleaned. The capacity for boiling is taken in a larger size. The longer the raw material boils, the darker it becomes. Masters make special boilers from a ventilation duct or HDPE pipe. The design is obtained with a length of about two meters, this option is suitable for those living in the private sector. To get a dark vine, caustic is added, but not more than 2%, from a larger amount the stems become brittle.

Another way to prepare the autumn vine for barking is to revive, turning dormant branches into sap. The rods are tied in an armful, put in a barrel with cuts down. Pour up to 20 cm of clean water at room temperature. Leave in a warm place, add water as needed. After two weeks, the buds swell, the weavers try to clean the shoots. If it is difficult to clean, leave for a few more days. If this does not help, then the plant is boiled. Autumn-winter vine is more elastic, stronger than harvested in spring or summer.

Drying and storage of rods

Harvested rods require drying. Prepare a wooden flooring, lay out the vine in a thin layer. In hot weather, the branches are placed under a canopy so that they do not crack, then they are taken out into the sun. Under the hot rays, the tree is bleached, the layer is periodically turned over for uniform lightening.

In wet weather, the material is dried in a ventilated room and under an awning for no more than a week, but only under the influence of the sun does the raw material acquire a unique white tint. For drying in the sun, two to three days are enough. Then the branches are collected in armfuls and left in the open air for three days. Overdrying is undesirable - the branches become brittle.

In a dry room, willow bundles last 3-4 years. If the rods are put in a hole, covered with straw, they will safely overwinter. The main rule is to protect raw materials from moisture and frost. Stems are stored in bundles, tied twice - 30 cm from the butt and in the middle of the bundle. Before starting work, the vine is soaked for one to two hours in warm water to restore flexibility, then wrapped in polyethylene and left for 2-3 hours. The exact time of these manipulations depends on the size and quality of the rods.

Weaving types

There are several basic types of weaving, on the basis of which complicated interesting options were invented. Simple weaving is an alternate rounding of the main rod with one branch behind and in front. The next row is laid in a checkerboard pattern. To make the pattern, take an odd number of risers.

Twisted rope - braiding is carried out with two rods, crossing them with each other with a figure eight and braiding the riser. The three-rod method is used to transition from the bottom to the sides and to increase strength. With three lozenges they braid the riser like a pigtail.

For layered weaving, several branches are taken instead of one. The technique is similar to the simple version, but the rows are arranged diagonally, the angle of inclination is about 15 degrees.

An interesting weaving method is knotted, popular in China. The vine is tied in a knot at the base after a certain distance. The method is suitable for creating decorative plates, rugs.

If the rod is split into several parts and cut, you will get a willow ribbon, which is used to weave patterns and fine details. The branch is selected long, of the same width, with a diameter of up to 10 mm. Before splitting, the material is soaked, planed dry. To work, you need a metal or ebonite cleaver and a sharp knife. Skillful craftsmen get several strips from one stem.

DIY basket

The most popular wicker craft is a basket. The product is hygroscopic. Products in such a container are not covered with mold. More than one option for weaving wicker baskets for beginners has been developed. The master first of all weaves the bottom or walls, the sequence depends on the craft traditions of the area.

In order to weave a basket correctly, inexperienced weavers attend master classes, study video courses posted on the Internet. In the process of work, the raw material is moistened. Starting weaving from the bottom, follow the scheme step by step:

For the walls, 17 medium even rods are selected with a length not less than the height of the future basket. Insert next to the main branches with a cut into the weave. Old branches are cut at the base, new ones are picked up and tied in a bundle. For a beautiful transition from the bottom to the walls, they are woven into three twigs. Continue with a simple pattern. After a few rows, the top is untied, the sides are braided.

The final stage is edge processing. The branches of the base are alternately pulled through the next two divisions and pulled out in front of the next riser. This is the usual way to finish the walls of the basket. Round baskets are made by braiding a specially prepared frame.

For the handle, a thick elastic trunk is chosen, its ends are sharpened and inserted into the weave. Wrap the base with thinner lozenges, twist to secure. Wrap the handle to the end, similarly fix on the other side.

The finished basket of unrooted vines is left to dry for several days. The branches dry out, the distance between the rows increases. Then lay additional rows along the walls and add twigs to the handle. After a few days, the craft is ready for use.

On the festive table, a drink looks original in a vessel braided with willow ribbons. The capacity is measured, a cross is made of six branches, the bottom is woven larger than on the bottle. Side risers are added as on a basket, fixed at the top. For the lower part, double weaving is used, then they switch to a simple option. Starting from the middle, the number of racks is reduced to narrow the work along the neck. The top is finished with a rope, varnished.

grape fantasies

For weaving, grape branches are used - long and strong. The only drawback of raw materials is noticeable kidney thickening. Small elegant objects made of such material do not look very harmonious. But flower beds, garden figures, wattle fences are durable and impressive. Popular Christmas wreaths are woven from vine stems, the uneven surface gives the product a zest. Wreaths are decorated with cones, toys, ribbons.

Collect material in early autumn, before creating small gizmos, the vine is treated with a pinch. Weaving techniques are the same as for wicker.

A fence made of grapes is used as a wattle fence, decoration for a flower bed, protection from animals. First, the height of the partition is determined, given that the stakes are driven into the ground. Cut columns of the same length, arrange in place of the future fence. Braid from bottom to top. The wood sheet is tied to the risers with a rope so that the rows do not fall when they dry. To complement the composition, decorative wicker crafts are placed around the site.

The work of a weaver is laborious and painstaking. Starting with simple vases and baskets, the master succeeds in creating complex furniture and openwork arbors. The work is addictive and it is impossible to refuse this useful hobby.

Products from a rod can serve decades, filling the house with a cosiness. They are appropriate not only in a village hut, but also in a city apartment. Ready to learn a new hobby and learn how to create masterpieces?

Weaving is an ancient art, the oldest baskets date back to 6500 BC. Wicker products are mentioned in the cultural heritage of almost all corners of the planet. Baskets, trays, boxes and baskets are very diverse and beautiful, they literally attract the eye. Wicker things were so widely used that they were reflected even in the canvases of the most famous artists. Today, ancient wicker weaving techniques are back and added to the list of fashionable hobbies.

Cradle

From household utensils to designer items

The use of baskets and wicker furniture has greatly expanded the scope, these are no longer only country accessories, but full-fledged residents of modern city apartments. Now these things are used not only as household or utilitarian, but also as bright design accents. It should be noted that harvesting vines for weaving does not cause any harm to the environment, but rather rejuvenates willow thickets.

Engaged in this craft with equal success in the countryside and in big cities. An indisputable advantage is the absence of the need to buy raw materials for work, it is quite possible to procure it yourself. Willow thickets abound in almost all regions of our country. For those who love long walks in nature, harvesting will bring only pleasure.

How to prepare a vine for weaving

However, there is an opportunity to buy raw materials for this hobby, although this industry is only gaining momentum. You can weave not only from willow, but also from walnut twig, derain and other fairly flexible species of trees and shrubs. You should choose long and not very thick shoots, they should not branch.

Both unbarked (unpeeled from the bark) material and cleaned are used. Mostly household products are made from unbarked twigs: wattle fences, baskets for vegetables or mushrooms. More elegant, smaller things are made from debarked material. It can be all sorts of vases, biscuits, laundry boxes and a huge variety of other products.

You should not prepare a rod for weaving in the summer. At this time, it is often brittle due to rapid growth. To avoid disappointment, harvesting is carried out in spring or autumn. In winter, it is also quite possible to do this, but the work will be hampered by snowdrifts and frost. The rods cut in the spring are cleaned of the bark without prior preparation, the autumn rod is first boiled, then cleaned. Processing is simple but takes time.

The weaving process quickly captivates and addicts, natural material in the hands takes away the negative and bad mood. And a ready-made little thing, made with your own hands, will delight you with both grace and convenience.

How to start weaving

In order to try to make your first basket, you need to be patient. Natural material does not lend itself as quickly as before laying it in even rows, a considerable number of blanks will be broken. Few tools are needed, they are very easy to get, they are inexpensive. To get started you will need:

• awl;
• secateurs;
• stationery knife;
• side cutters;
• The spray bottle will help keep the rod moist as you work so it doesn't break.

Classical products begin to weave from the bottom, then the walls are woven out, the bend and the handle are made. Taking the first steps in this craft, it is advisable to start with a simple round basket.

Before making it, you need to familiarize yourself with just a few weaving techniques:

• weaving a round bottom;
• ropes;
• layered weaving for walls;
• product bending.

Weaving should be periodically crushed and tamped so that it does not turn out to be too loose as a result. It is necessary to ensure that the rods lie evenly and tightly, without overlapping each other.

Having mastered the basic techniques of wicker weaving, the craftswoman can move on to openwork or other more complex things. You can decorate baskets with various braids, weave other materials, such as straw, birch bark or wooden beads.

The flight of creative thought in this matter is guaranteed! The finished product is varnished, preferably water-based. It is environmentally friendly and odorless, and the processed thing can then be successfully used in the kitchen or in the nursery.

Contemporary uses and examples of basketry

Weaving from a vine is a very flexible skill, its use is limited only by the imagination of the master. Fashionable landscape designers specially order vine sculptures to decorate the site. Wattles, which can be made independently, are in great demand. Elegant and comfortable rocking chairs deserve special attention.

The possession of this accessory already speaks of the status of the owner, of his achievements. You can come up with and make designer decorations and gifts for the holidays, for example, for the New Year.

A special place is occupied by cradles made of wicker. Natural, unprocessed material is perfect for children's rooms. Babies fall asleep really well and calmly in a wicker cradle.

Various shelving baskets will suit almost any interior, they are very convenient for storing small things that you have to keep at hand all the time.

Each hostess will find a lot of opportunities for using such products in her home. For a modern lady with imagination who knows how to weave from a vine, the issue of gifts to loved ones immediately becomes easier. It is unlikely that there will be such a thick-skinned person who does not appreciate a woven little thing specially for him, author's and so warm.

Weaving from a vine is a very ancient type of needlework. Such weaving is quite fascinating. And although now some are replacing the vine with ordinary newspaper tubes, wicker weaving remains quite popular among modern needlewomen. In this article you will find a master class on weaving from a vine for beginners. This master class will help you understand the technique of weaving from a vine for beginners and will reveal many secrets on this topic.

Before you start weaving gizmos from the vine, learn a little about harvesting the vine. Harvesting vines for weaving requires special knowledge. Usually the vine is harvested in winter, it is necessary that the vine be from mature wood. Next, you need to process the vine: clean it from the bark, for the ease of this process, you need to immerse the vine in hot water, namely hot, not cold, bring to a boil and cook for 20 minutes. To choose the right vine, look at the color of its bark, if it is red or orange, you can check for strength: bend, forming a right angle, if the vine has passed these tests, you can safely take it for yourself.

Description of work

A wide variety of baskets and vases are created from the vine. There is also do-it-yourself furniture weaving from a vine. But to weave furniture, you need a great desire and experience in this matter. For beginners, it is better to get by with a regular basket, which can also be very useful in everyday life.

For weaving from a vine you will need:

• Hot water tank
• sharp knife
• wicker

First you need to weave the bottom, to do this, decide what shape it will be. In our case, the bottom will be round. So, let's begin!

We take five sticks and make holes in their middle into which we insert the other five sticks. So we got the cross. We insert rods for braiding into the same holes and begin to braid the center with a rope in two rods. Weave two rows like this. Next, we move the two rods apart, leave the central one in place, again braid two. And again weave two rows like this. Now we braid two rows of one twig.

Having finished pushing the risers of the cross, we proceed to braid them with layered weaving, as shown in the photo.

We insert under each riser at the tip of the rod, selected for layer-by-layer weaving, we continue to weave until we reach the desired size of the bottom.

In order to weave the walls of the basket, it is necessary to lift the rods and begin to braid them. Raised twigs are called risers.

There are many weaving techniques. The most common is rope. It is with it that we will weave our basket. We will do this with a rope in two rods, i.e. two rods. The previous rod presses the next one from above and, bending around the base twig from the inside, comes out. Then the same is repeated with the second rod and so on. Weave like this, gradually expanding your basket. Be sure to imagine how high your product will be and, having reached half, insert the ends of the rods bent in half into the weaving, which will serve as the handles of your basket. Such handles most often consist of three or four twigs.

Next, continue weaving the walls of the basket. When you reach the desired height, braid the side of the basket and its handles, this will give the basket completeness and prevent it from breaking quickly. Weaving this edge also has its secrets. To competently weave the edge, you need to take any riser and start it for the next two with access to the outside. Next, take the next riser and do the same. And so on, with everyone else. Carefully cut off the excess twigs with a sharpened knife. And that's it, your basket of vines is ready!

Please note that it is important that the rods lie as close to each other as possible. To do this, many craftsmen tap them with a mallet during weaving.

And this is a basket created by layer-by-layer weaving. Such weaving is also very popular among needlewomen. For things layered weaving, we need the same number of twigs as risers. This weaving is done simultaneously with all the rods: each rod goes around the next riser from the outside, then the next riser goes around from the inside and is brought out. We repeat the same in turn with each rod involved in weaving. Weave like this until you reach the desired height. In the same way, gradually expanding if it is a basket.

Thematic videos

Weaving from a vine is shown in the videos provided below, you will find many secrets that will be very useful to you in your work.

Most interesting articles:

Do-it-yourself wicker furniture is easy, and a wicker sofa is even easier

1. DIY wicker furniture - the basics
2. small wicker sofa
3. Making a seat frame
4. Cut out the front legs
5. Cut out the back legs
6. Making the back
7. Making ribbons
8. We give rigidity to our frame
9. Finishing touches
10. We make a seat

Do-it-yourself wicker furniture is not only an elegant appearance and reliability, but also pride in the fact that it is a creation of your hands.

This article will be of interest to two categories of people at the same time:

1. For those who want to turn weaving furniture with their own hands into a hobby
2. For those who want, without going too far into the creation process, to make a small sofa in the yard to sit on it and tie their shoelaces or just take a break.

The first will learn about the basics of weaving furniture.

The second is about how to make such a sofa.

DIY wicker furniture - the basics

In fact, making wicker furniture yourself is not difficult if you move in the direction from simple to complex. Yes, you will need certain skills, and you must know a number of nuances. But they are simple, and mastering them is a matter of a couple of minutes.

There are several types of wicker furniture:

1. Frameless.

   The peculiarity of creating such products is that you need to find a lot of strong sticks. Not bars, not wood, but sticks collected in some park or forest.

   These sticks will be like stiffeners for the whole structure.

2. Joinery-frame and frame (typesetting). In such products, duralumin tubes or steel bars are used as a frame.

   And the weaving itself is done between them.

3. Stick. Here the whole feature is that the sticks are not used to stiffen the weaving, but they themselves will play the role of a supporting structure.

Just the sofa that we will make together today belongs to this type of wicker furniture.

There is also soft and semi-rigid wicker furniture.

If you decide to make furniture weaving your hobby, then you should know that you can weave in different ways.

Below we list the main types of weaving:

• single
• openwork
• combined - in this case, several rods are used

With these types of weaving, you can not only make solid surfaces, but also create patterns.

And in order for do-it-yourself wicker furniture not to crumble after the first use, it is necessary that all parts are firmly connected.

Connections are of two types: detachable and one-piece.

If you connect the details of wicker furniture in the first way, then the product is easier to disassemble and reassemble.

But this method is rarely used.

The second method is more popular, since the product is more durable, and it is easier to use it - after all, in order to connect the parts you need a hammer and nails, self-tapping screws and glue.

But in this case, if the furniture is large, it is more difficult to transport it to another place, because it cannot be disassembled.

Do you think that's enough theory for today?

How to make a small wicker sofa for the yard

You know that the main material for wicker furniture is willow. This suggests that if you have a courtyard, then there is probably a forest nearby or a small park where a willow grows. Why are we?

To the fact that the first thing you need to go there and collect as much material as possible. Along the way, collect strong sticks - about 2.5-3 centimeters in diameter - from which you will make a frame.

As soon as you collect the material, go home and peel off the bark from the sticks and willow.

Leave them to dry.

And when they dry, sand them a little so that you don’t pick up a splinter during use.

In the meantime, they dry, determine the size of the sofa:

• seat length and width
• how far will the seat be from the floor
• how high will the back be

Determined?

Making a seat frame

To do this, cut four sticks to the required size. Let there be two 60 cm each and two 40 cm each.

Fasten them with screws. You should get a rectangle.

Cut out the front legs

There will be three of them. They are also made from sticks.

Their height should be equal to the distance of the seat from the floor that you have chosen. Let it be 40 cm.

Cut out the back legs

To determine their size, add to the height of the front legs the height of the back you have chosen.

Let the back height be 25 cm. Then we cut out two legs 65 cm high (they will be extreme) and one 70-75 cm high (you will fix it in the middle).

Attach them to the seat with self-tapping screws.

Making the back

To do this, cut a stick a little longer than the length of the seat, and attach it to the upper ends of the rear legs with self-tapping screws.

Since our middle leg is higher, you will get a back in the form of an arc.

Making ribbons

To do this, you need to divide the willow twigs into four parts. Any stick cut in the shape of four final stars will help you with this.

Make an incision in the form of a cross at the end of the twig. Divide the twig into pieces with your hands. Put the separated parts into the recesses of the stick in the form of a star, and press on the stick until it reaches the other end. This way you will get four ribbons.

Do the same with a few more twigs.

Just not with everyone, they still come in handy.

With these ribbons you will hide the caps of the screws and nails.

We give rigidity to our frame

To do this, we fasten a stick between the side legs. Also with self-tapping screws. It is also necessary to fasten the middle legs together.

Remember that the stiffeners must be at the same height.

Now you need to attach two sticks along the length of the seat, fastening the stiffeners connecting the legs.

Now you need to attach two sticks that will connect the back leg, located in the center, with the extreme ones.

Attach the sticks diagonally.

The end that will be on the extreme legs should be at the level of the stick that fastens the front and rear legs together, and fasten the other end just below the seat.

Finishing touches

Take a willow twig.

Making wicker furniture with your own hands

Fold it into an arc and fasten it to the left side of the back, nailing it:

• the ends of the twig to the extreme and middle legs
• and the top point of the arc to the back

Do the same with the second part of the back.

Take a larger willow twig and also turn it into an arc. Fasten the ends of the arc with small nails to the side front legs, and the upper part in two places to the seat.

Now wrap all the parts where the caps of self-tapping screws and nails are visible with the tapes made in paragraph five.

And so that it does not unwind, glue it with glue.

We make a seat

To do this, cut out a piece of plywood according to the size of the frame for the seat. Nail it to it with nails or screws.

After that, you process the entire sofa with stain in several layers. As soon as the stain dries, put foam rubber on the plywood and upholster it with material.

Everything. A wicker sofa for a summer residence is ready. You can use it to your heart's content.

DIY wicker furniture

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A business idea for aspiring entrepreneurs who searched on the Internet: do-it-yourself wicker furniture, the technological process, what you need to know, be able to, types of weaving, description, What you need to know and be able to weave furniture.

The technological process of weaving furniture with your own hands

To weave furniture with your own hands, you first need to know the technological process of mechanical processing of wood, choose the material that is beneficial for you (willow or rattan), learn how to store it, study each type of weaving, know how to connect the elements of wicker furniture, have the necessary equipment for work and allocate a place where you will engage in craftsmanship.

Of the equipment for mechanical processing, you need to purchase: hand saws, shmol (for cutting tapes in width), plows, zhamki (steel plates for bending or straightening rods), chisel, iser (a conical steel plate for aligning rows in products and thickening weaving) , chisels, drills, drills, emery skins, screwdrivers, knives and other tools.

The technology for the production of furniture weaving begins with the procurement or purchase of raw materials, for example, you have the opportunity to collect it near a river or in a forest. Having brought the rods home, they need to be re-sorted and cleaned of bark (hot or cold) after, when the rod is completely peeled of bark and has a creamy shiny surface, it is sent for sanding to the grinder.

Then the rod of the vine goes through the process of bleaching, moistened and sent to dry for 20 hours. Then they make a frame for wicker furniture with their own hands, braid it with a split vine.

Making wicker furniture with your own hands

And only after that they choose the type of weaving for furniture to make it with their own hands: simple, thick, solid, rare, openwork, layered, in rows, squares, rope and bend. To make the rods easier to bend, they are moistened in water, and then dried. Details of wicker furniture can be connected: a simple overlay or trimming of wood by 1/3 or 1/4 of the thickness of one part in relation to the width of another part, corner joints (into an overlay), an overlay with trimming and wrapping, connecting two parts on an oblique cut, fastening girth, connection with shooters, underarms and prolegs.

After fixing and shaping all the elements with your own hands on wicker furniture, they are assembled again, dried and polished, and then only varnished, which dries quickly and makes the surface glossy, shiny

Do-it-yourself wicker furniture from a wicker DIY furniture weaving technology What you need to know and be able to weave furniture

What should be the focus of choosing knitted furniture

Like all other things, fashion wicker furniture is one of the decisive factors in the growth of consumer demand for it.

Today it is difficult to judge the fashion for furniture in general, its great variety allows the consumer to create this particular interior, which corresponds to his ideas of a comfortable life. Those who focus on pleasant, exclusive romantic-style interiors, among the preferred options, consider hanging furniture to have full or partial living arrangements, including open and closed verandas.

Which manufacturer is better

Today on the market there is mainly knitted furniture of European, domestic and Indonesian production.

Which one would I prefer?
It is traditionally believed that the European quality of goods is better than, for example, Asia. The cost of producing furniture in Europe is much higher, so you can't talk about its affordability, but it's a big advantage that there are practically no complaints about the quality of users.

Indonesian wicker furniture is relatively cheap and is plentiful today.

It is supposed to be handmade and varied. Unfortunately, there are many complaints from Russian buyers, because most of the production models in Asian countries are not correct due to the broken frame, and the repair of products is not recommended, as it is very expensive. In addition, Asian standards for human physical parameters are different from Asian standards.

For example, armchairs and chairs may not fit as the overall height, depth, and height of the armrests are for Asian.

The Russian manufacturer presents a wide range of wicker products on the market. The main wicker furniture is of high quality and the prices are quite high. The big advantage of buying domestic products is the possibility of repair in case of failure and an immediate guarantee from the supplier.

Why weaving furniture

In general, knitwear, walnut, cane, bamboo, sisal, abacus, raffia are used to weave various products and furniture.

Modern knitted furniture is made mainly from rattan. Most manufacturers choose rattan for a reason, but most of them meet the requirements of all parameters required for the material during its processing and during operation.

Rattan, wood, metals can be used as product frames. Various materials can be used for exterior decoration: glass, leather, textiles, plastics, etc.

DIY wicker furniture

Products are covered with various varnishes, colors. Today we offer furniture for furniture made of natural and artificial rattan.
A feature of woven products is that fasteners are practically not used for their manufacture. The technology allows knitting in such a way that the product will firmly hold the mold in the future.

conclusions

When choosing knitted furniture, be guided by:
Your personal desire for visual perception;
about their financial capacity.

When you settle on similar options, carefully review the supplier information, the material the furniture is made from, and the manufacturer's warranty.
Capture the product with your parameters: take the size of the strap and shape the model in a practical way: does it fit you.

If you are buying furniture from a real store, feel free to sit on it, lie, open all the drawers and doors.

Since ancient times, man has mastered the technique of weaving furniture. Until the advent of technology and modern finishing materials, wicker furniture was almost the only home interior item. Since then, a lot of time has passed, but the good old "braid" does not lose its relevance today.

Moreover, surprisingly, this type of furniture is very versatile and is equally suitable for both urban environments and country houses.

The materials for the manufacture of wicker furniture, both in past times and now, are straw, reeds, lianas, connected in a special way.

Moreover, in this way you can make a variety of home furnishings: such as sofas of various shapes, tables, banquettes, beds and much more. In addition to the original look and spectacular appearance, wicker furniture compares favorably with traditional furniture in a number of advantages.

Perhaps one of the most important is that such furniture is made from environmentally friendly materials, and it is made exclusively by hand, and its production is absolutely harmless to the environment.

The benefits of wicker furniture

In addition, we must remember that such a headset, unless of course it is made by a professional and from high-quality materials, is very durable and will serve its owners much longer than the traditional one.

Thanks to the materials used, no matter how big it is, such furniture will not weigh much and therefore it will be easy to move it when rearranging or, say, cleaning the room.

It is very easy to care for it: you just need to wipe the product from dust and regularly moisten its surface with a sponge, for example, in order to prevent cracking of the “braid”.

Vine weaving for beginners: the best do-it-yourself furniture

We should also not forget about the pleasant appearance of your furniture: weaving patterns will create a good mood and will remind you of nature at any time of the year.

The latest fashion trends have also affected this conservative type of furniture: materials for its manufacture are treated with special chemicals that give them increased strength and moisture resistance, and in addition, individual pieces of wicker furniture are equipped with small wheels that greatly simplify its movement.

Life does not stand still, and models of wicker furniture are already appearing, in which, in addition to the main material, there are also modern ones.

For example, as various shelves and countertops, more and more often in the design of wicker furniture there is impact-resistant glass, which, thanks to a special manufacturing technology, is able to withstand significant loads and physical impact. In addition, in the design of the "braid" you can increasingly find elements made of chrome-plated iron, which improve the appearance and increase the strength of the product.

Among other things, some types of wicker furniture include special pillows that increase the softness of the products, and since these pillows are equipped with removable covers, they are easy to care for and keep your headset looking nice.

Material for making wicker furniture

Willow is certainly considered the most common material for the manufacture of wicker furniture in our latitudes: probably every summer resident has baskets of this material, and abroad they use rattan for this purpose.

Unfortunately, wicker furniture has one, but a significant drawback is its price. Since this is handmade, it will cost a lot: for example, domestic furniture made of willow, in the form of a set of items from a sofa and two armchairs, can reach an amount of several thousand rubles, and a similar imported furniture set will cost about $ 1,000.

In the case of buying a whole living room set, the price can easily exceed $10,000.

However, if you are a true connoisseur of everything natural and for you originality and spectacular appearance play a decisive role when buying, then wicker furniture is what you need. And at any time of the year, it will give you pleasant and dear memories. Happy shopping!

Recently, weaving cozy things for your home has attracted more and more people. I started my journey in this direction about 3 years ago. There was little information, they learned from their mistakes. Therefore, I decided to create a very detailed master class for those who want to join the ranks of the "weavers", and I hope it will make it very easy to start your creativity.

So ... to get started, we need: any fairly strong box that we will braid (it can be a plastic mold or even a pan from your kitchen, etc., etc.); the tubes themselves (I usually use consumer paper for this); cardboard (preferably binding, but corrugated can also be used); a napkin with a pattern you like; self-adhesive film, which can be replaced with any wallpaper; PVA glue, scissors and clothespins. We start work.

According to the shape of the bottom, we cut out two blanks from cardboard.

Photo #2. I recommend pasting one of the blanks (I have it from corrugated cardboard) with adhesive film, this will save the bottom from excessive moisture. We cut out a rectangle in the shape of the bottom with a margin of about 2 cm for the bend.

Photo #3. In the corners, in order to avoid sloppy protruding ends, we make such cuts ...

Photo #4. And we bend them inside.

Photo #5. This is what we should get from the outside.

Photo #6. We first paint the cardboard for the inner layer with white water-based paint. This is necessary so that the pattern of the napkin is brighter. If you have white cardboard, then there is no need to paint. After the paint dries, cover the top with a thick layer of PVA glue and let dry well. If you don’t want to mess around with a napkin, you can simply paste over the second piece of cardboard with adhesive tape.

Photo number 7. If you nevertheless decided to make your braid unforgettable and chose a napkin, first we separate the top colorful layer from it. Prepare iron and paper for baking.

Photo #8. Usually a napkin consists of three words. We remove the two lower layers and can use them for a direct purpose. For the basket, we only need the top layer.

Photo #9. We iron the napkin so that there are no traces of bends on it.

Photo #10. We lay out the ironed napkin on the workpiece (on the side that we painted and covered with glue) and also go through the iron.

Photo #11. In order to prevent the napkin from bubbling and wrinkling during varnishing, cover the napkin with baking paper, set the iron to maximum power and carefully iron the napkin again. I recommend holding the iron in one place for 4-5 seconds. The baking paper will prevent the napkin from burning.

Photo #12. We cut off the excess, the edges of the napkin left in reserve are simply glued on the reverse side with a brush.

Photo #13. On one of the blanks (it doesn’t matter which one), using a ruler, we make markings. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the tubes that you wound. It can vary between 1.5-2cm.

Photo #14. We glue the tubes according to the markings. In what follows, we will call them racks. I use a glue gun, which makes the process much faster. For the drawing that I used in this work, we need to even number of racks.

Photo #15. Paste the second blank on top ...

Photo #16. ... and put the form we have chosen on top of the resulting combination. It is advisable to put something heavy inside so that the form remains in place during weaving. I have a brick, but you can use a jar of water, dumbbells, etc.

Photo #17. We take a knitting needle, substitute it to the rack, bend the rack through the knitting needle to another rack and lift it up. At the beginning of weaving, it is better to use ordinary clothespins for attaching racks.

Photo #18. We bend the second rack for the already bent one, bring it under the third one and also lift it up.

Photo #19. We repeat these movements around the perimeter of the entire workpiece.

Photo #20. We put the end of the last rack on the knitting needle left at the very beginning and pull it up.

Photo #21. This is how it will be clearer.

Photo #22. Here is such a "hedgehog" we got in the end. We proceed directly to the weaving itself.

Photo #23. We take two working tubes and stick them to the adjacent racks.

Photo #24. We draw the first working tube over the second, in front of the first rack and bend it behind the second rack.

Photo #25. We lay the second tube over the first and bend it behind the next rack.

Photo #26. We repeat the same movements to the end. This weaving method is called straight rope.

Photo #27. When the working tube ends, we make an oblique cut at its end in front of the stand, behind which this tube will subsequently lie.

Photo #28. If the holes at the end are not too wide, I recommend widening them a little with a knitting needle or the sharp end of scissors.

Photo #29. We take the next working tube, cut off the thinner end obliquely, dip a little in PVA glue and insert it into the prepared end of the previous tube. To make the tubes easier to connect, the end of the inserted tube can be slightly bent.

Photo #30. The tubes have grown, we continue to weave rope further along the perimeter.

Photo #31. We reached the place where we began to weave a row. We lay the first tube as usual ...

Photo #32. ... but the second one is laid not above the first, but under it. We do not cut the tubes, we continue weaving.

Photo #33. We begin the next row: we lay the first tube no longer above the second, but under it, and wind it up behind the next rack. Such weaving is already called reverse rope.

Photo #36. We got to the place where we started the second row: we mark the place where the first tube should go behind the counter, cut off the excess, apply a drop of glue and simply put the tube behind the counter.

Photo #37. This photo shows how the pattern should be built, and where the second tube should go so that the pattern is not disturbed.

Photo #38. For accuracy, we temporarily remove the form, insert a knitting needle from the inside and use it to bring the end of the second working tube inside the weave.

Early spring is the best time to trim the bushes, it is important to have time to cut the vine BEFORE the sap flow.

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Vine weaving

Weaving from a vine is one of the most ancient crafts. It arose much earlier than pottery and occupied a significant place in the life of an ancient person. Dwellings, outbuildings were erected from the branches of woody plants, fences, children's cradles, sleigh and cart bodies, furniture, children's toys and utensils were made. Back in the 19th century and even at the beginning of the 20th century. one of the most common products in peasant life were wicker bast shoes.

Much has changed since that time, but wicker weaving has not been forgotten. Until now, baskets, bread bins, fruit bowls, trays made of wicker rods are deservedly popular because of their elegance and ability to fit even into the most modern interior.

Made from a rod and furniture, characterized by lightness, convenience and beauty. These are a variety of chairs, armchairs, sofas, banquettes, book shelves, rocking chairs and much more. Such furniture can be used not only indoors, but also outdoors, because it is not afraid of moisture. However, furniture weaving is a whole art, which can only be mastered in practice, after many lessons in weaving simple objects from a vine.

Baskets remain the most common wicker products.

Each master not only weaves his products according to general principles, but also brings something of his own to it. Decoration of wickerwork, and the choice of weaving methods themselves is a matter of taste. It is enough to know only some general principles and types of weaving, and further success will already depend on the practice and imagination of the master. Based on experience, imagination and his own vision of the subject, each master improvises and improves his product in the very course of its manufacture, which allows achieving compositional completeness.

Material

Willow is the common name for a number of plants, which include willow, husk, willow, willow, willow, black sorrel. The rods of many of them, after appropriate processing, are quite suitable for weaving. The exception is brittle willow and some other species. Most often, young shoots of willow, three-stamen willow and basket willow are harvested for weaving.

For weaving, rods are usually used at the age of one to two years. For small graceful weaving, annual shoots are taken, which in some types of willow are thin, long, resembling a cord; for weaving large things, as well as for making the frame of baskets, two-year-old shoots are used. Willow rods intended for weaving should be long, thin, flexible, viscous, straight-grained and split well along the fibers. It is necessary to harvest only those rods, the surface of which, after removing the bark from them, looks glossy.

For baskets, try to prepare rods with a length of at least 60 - 70 cm with a diameter at the butt (at the cut point) of 5–8 mm. Usually, on the same bush, willow shoots have approximately the same physical and mechanical properties. Therefore, before cutting the rods from the bush, you first need to check the quality of one of them. If the willow branch on the cut has a too large core with a brownish-reddish tint, then such a rod will be very brittle. It is best to take branches that have a small, barely visible core at the end of the cut. And of course, you need to choose fairly straight shoots, without growths, damage and knots.

You can harvest a vine for weaving at any time of the year. The process of removing bark from rods is called debarking. But most often this is done in spring and autumn. In spring shoots, the bark is removed easily, without pre-treatment. If the rods are cut at other times of the year, then in order to remove the bark, they need to be soaked or evaporated. In summer and autumn, the rods are soaked in running water of a river, stream, or simply in some container, but then it is necessary to change the water every day. The harvested vine is tied into a bundle, a load is placed inside and immersed in water. Steel objects should not be used as cargo, since the tannins contained in the willow bark can stain the wood in an ugly color. To prevent the rods from being carried away by the current, they are tied with a rope to a peg driven into the shore. The rods are soaked for 1-2 weeks. In order not to wait such a long time, the rods can simply be steamed. To do this, the rods are placed in a tank or trough, filled with water and boiled for 1–2 hours. Then the rods are taken out, allowed to cool and the bark is removed. In the process of work, the rods must be flexible, that is, bent by 180 ° without breaking. It is necessary to separate the rods from the bark within 4 hours after steaming, otherwise the separation of the bark is difficult.

Instruments

The tools used in the work are few: an awl, a sharp knife, pruning shears and a heavy metal bar, which compacts the rows of rods (Fig. 1).

Rice. one. Instruments

To separate the bark from the rod, a special tool is used -pinch(Figure 2).

Rice. 2. Manual pinches

The simplest and most common design

Rice. 3

wheremilki is a metal slingshot driven into a massive bench, table or log. The shemilka can be made from two metal rods. Pointed rods (they can be two thick nails) of the same length are driven side by side into a wooden base, they are wrapped with thick wire from below, laying a coil to coil, to a height of 5–7 cm. The free upper ends are spread in different directions - a slingshot is obtained (Fig. 3) .

With the help of such a pinch, the rods are barked. Work is best done with cloth gloves. Approximately in the middle, the rod is clamped with a pinch, which is held with the left hand. With the right hand, the rod is pulled towards itself. If the bark is removed at the same time only on one side, the rod is passed through the pinch again.

Debarked rods should be dried immediately, otherwise they may lose their value: darken, become moldy and even rot. It is also impossible to fold undried barked rods in heaps, as they will become stained. In the summer, the rods are dried for several days under a canopy on decks in the open air. Dried rods are stored in a dry, well-ventilated area stacked.

Baskets and other large items are most often woven from whole green or barked twigs. For weaving small baskets or other products, split thin rods are used.

To divide the rod into several parts (shrinks), use the cores (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. To the hole

To do this, the rod is pierced with a knife into 3-4 parts, the cleavers are inserted into the cuts and the rod is pulled towards itself, dividing it into taverns. Shanks, in turn, can be planed into tapes (Fig. 5).

Rice. five

Before splitting the rods there, they are soaked in several steps in water for 4–8 hours.

Material handling

Part of the rods intended for artistic weaving can be etched or dyed. To achieve a white solid color, as well as to protect them from decay, products from the vine are bleached. Natural bleaching can be achieved by drying the debarked twigs in the sun. Artificially, the rods are bleached with the help of sulfur: a wicker product and a box with sulfur (60 g of sulfur per 1 m 2) are placed in a special box, which is set on fire, and the box is tightly closed. After 3-6 hours, the rods are bleached.

Bleach rods and using a bleach solution: 1 part bleach, 15 parts water diluted with 1-2% sulfuric acid. All work is done with rubber gloves.

To obtain vibrant colors, conventional aniline dyes can be used. Four packages of aniline paints are taken on a bucket of hot water. A few tablespoons of acetic acid are added to the colorful solution. In order for the rods to be well dyed, they are kept in the dye for about 3 hours, then rinsed with clean water and dried at room temperature. Durable color gives the rods coloring with natural dyes. A grayish-brown color is obtained if the rods are dipped for a while in a solution of iron sulphate. Yellow color gives a decoction of heather, ledum, birch leaves, onion husks; green - a decoction of wolfberries and vinegar; brown - a decoction of black alder branches, shoots and leaves of buckthorn, as well as a solution of potassium permanganate.

Products look very beautiful, individual parts of which were subjected to mottled firing. For these purposes, the surface of the rods is sprayed with clay, and then fired on a burner. The clay is broken.

You can also decorate the rod decoratively by burning out whole patterns, which are first applied with a pencil, and then burned out on the vine with a red-hot iron rod.

To protect wickerwork and to give them a beautiful natural sheen, they resort to varnishing using furniture nitrocellulose varnishes (NTs-222, NTs-218, NTs-223, NTs-224). However, it should be borne in mind that such varnishes are not waterproof, and therefore it is necessary to store products indoors. You can also use polyester wax-free varnishes (PE-232, PE-247, PE-250).

Before weaving, barked rods and ribbons are soaked in special containers in several stages, since the rods turn black from a long stay in water. The material that dries up during operation is moistened with a damp cloth.

Methods and types of weaving from a vine

Depending on the size and shape of the manufactured product, as well as on the method of filling the space between the racks, there are several main types of weaving. It can be solid (thick), openwork or mixed, when several types of weaving are combined. The braid ends with a bend or a pigtail. However, any weaving includes racks, or a base, and weaving rods themselves.

The main types of weaving

The most common type is straight, or simple weaving. This type of weaving is used in the manufacture of suitcases, baskets, trunks.

Simple weaving through one rack can be done with two, three or more rods from left to right (Fig. 6).

To speed up the process, you can weave with several rods at once (Fig. 7).

A rod bends around one rack in front, with the next one behind, until the circle closes.

It must be remembered that in the case of weaving a closed circle, the number of racks must be odd in order for the circle to close.

When weaving the next row, the first rack is bent around from the opposite side, while each rack is fixed in the desired position. Weaving usually starts from the butt of the rod. If weaving with a rod ends in its upper part, then the next one is laid behind 3-4 already braided racks to give the product greater strength. If the rod ends at its base, then a new rod is laid behind the same stand, tucking the ends into the product.

Rice. 6. straight weave

Rice. 7

In the manufacture of not closed, but rectangular weaving, the extreme rack bends around with a turn back, and weaving continues from right to left until the desired height is reached

Racks should be braided with a rod tightly, with tension. From time to time, the rows need to be leveled, compacted and ensure that the posts are at the same distance from each other

If the braid should be expanding upwards, each rack must be pulled towards you. If the product needs to be narrowed, the racks are bent inward, only this should be done evenly so that the product is not asymmetrical. It is better to put a weight on the bottom of the braid to make the job easier.

With one rod, you can also go around not one, but two racks (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Patterns of intricate braiding

The number of racks in this case should not be a multiple of 4 or odd. Another way of weaving is braiding the first and second racks in front, the third in the back, the fourth and fifth in the front, the sixth in the back, etc. (Fig. 9).

Rice. nine. Plain weaving patterns

The number of racks should not be 3.

One of the varieties of simple weaving is layered, or weaving in oblique rows. It is performed through one rack, but the difference is that the number of rods must be equal to the number of racks. The butt of the rod is braided with simple weaving from left to right through one rack into 3-4 adjacent racks. The next rod is laid behind the adjacent left post and braided in the same way, slightly raising the loose ends.

Such weaving is carried out from the right hand to the left and the circle of weaving is necessarily closed, while laying the butt parts of the rods inside the product, and the vertex parts up and out.

If weaving needs to be continued, the butt parts of the rods of the second row are laid in a circle from right to left, with each rod interlacing four racks with a simple weave. The second stage is the alternate braiding of all the remaining ends of the rods for one rack.

With this method of weaving, the rods are selected of the same length and thickness. Layered weaving can also be carried out with several rods (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. Layered weaving

Weaving in rows - one of the simplest types. It is very convenient that the rods in this case can be of different lengths, the main thing is that their thickness is approximately the same, then the product will have a beautiful texture. It is performed immediately with two rods. Weaving begins with the butt ends of the shortest rods; by simple weaving they are braided through one rack to the end of the rod, leaving its thinnest parts unbraided. The butt part of the second rod is laid behind the stoic next to the right of the beginning of weaving and is braided in the same way with simple weaving to the end. Further weaving is carried out in exactly the same way: after the rod is completely braided, the next one is laid behind the rightmost rack, and weaving is carried out from left to right (Fig. 11) .

Rice. eleven. Weaving in rows

square weave (Fig. 12) is performed with one or two paired rods or willow ribbon through two racks. Distinguish between square weaving in a checker and in a checkerboard pattern.

Weaving in a checker perform simple weaving through two racks (Fig. 13).

The second row of weaving is performed in the same way as the previous one, only shifting the first rod one rack to the left, that is, two racks go around from the outside, and the next two from the inside. The thickness of the second strip, like the first, must correspond to its width. Thus, the second strip pulls together those racks between which the weaving rods of the second strip crossed, and disconnects those that the first strip pulled together - the checker of the second strip is in the middle of the two checkers of the first, shifting one rack to the right.

Rice. 12. square weave

Rice. 13. Weaving in a checker

Further weaving is continued according to the principle: the third strip is woven like the first, the fourth - like the second, etc.

A beautiful pattern will turn out if the rods are approximately the same in thickness and painted in two colors, for example, white and brown. The drawing in this case will resemble brickwork when viewed from the side. The second type of weaving is performed from single or paired wicker rods or ribbons by simple weaving through two racks (Fig. 14).

Fulfilling checkerboard weaving, with the first rod, they bend around the first and second racks from the outside, bend inward between the second and third racks, bend around the third and fourth from the inside, and between the fourth and fifth they bring the rod out. Next, the rod is woven, bending around two racks on one side and two on the other (Fig. 15).

Rice. fourteen

The second rod is laid from the inside behind the first and second racks, brought out behind the first and second racks and then in the same sequence. Two racks are alternately braided on one side and two on the other (Fig. 16).

The height of the strip is determined by its checkerboard width, since the square shape must be respected. In this case, you should ensure that the squares of one color alternate with the squares of another. With proper and neat weaving, all cells will be located strictly diagonally

This type of weaving is used in the manufacture of bags, baskets, etc.

Rice. 15. Weaving in a checkerboard pattern

Rice. 16. straight weave

Rope weaving (twisting) used in cases where some parts of the basket or other product must be made the most durable. For example, in flower girls, intersecting or parallel rods are intertwined with a rope, individual elements are connected or fastened together in knitted weaving, as well as when fixing the end of all types of weaving.

Such weaving is performed with a single rod, but at the same time, at least two rods are involved in the weaving process itself. With this method of weaving the rack, the rods are simultaneously intertwined with each other, which gives the product special strength.

Most often, weaving with a rope of 2, 3.4 and 5 rods is used (Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Weaving with a rope in three, four, five rods

When weaving a rope into two rods (Fig. 18), their butt ends are laid on different sides of the first rack: the first rod is laid behind the first rack from the inside and brought out between the first and second racks.

Rice. eighteen. Weaving a rope in two rods

The second rod, on the contrary, is laid behind the first post from the outside and between the first and second it is bent inward, it bends around the second post inside and is brought out between the second and third posts. Next, the first rod is bent around the second rack from the outside and bent inward between the second and third racks.

Twisting the rods between themselves and between the uprights firmly fixes the uprights themselves in the desired position.

A rope of three rods is woven simultaneously with three rods (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. Weaving with a rope in three rods

Three rods are inserted between two adjacent racks. The left rod goes around two racks in front, and the third behind, after which the bar is again brought forward.

The same is done with the next two rods. The rack to the left of the rod from which weaving begins should be marked so that the transition to the next row is smooth. In each row, the transition must be done in the same place.

Weaving with a rope of three rods is used to secure the base of the racks during the transition from weaving the bottom to the walls of the basket.

At weaving rope in two rows in different directions one row is woven from left to right, and the other - from right to left, so that the weaving retains its shape better (Fig. 20).

Rice. twenty. Rope weaving in different directions

This type of weaving is started in the same way as a rope in two rods, with the only difference being that the ends of the rod are directed to the inside of the product. When building rods, their ends are laid on the reverse side. Weaving with a rope in different directions in three, four or more rods is also used.

This type of weaving is used to distinguish between different types of weaving, to fix racks and simply as a decorative element when braiding mirrors, frames, in the manufacture of decorative plates and other products.

A rope in openwork weaving is most often made in two rods of approximately the same thickness and strength (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Rope in openwork weaving

The rod is bent in half and bent around the first rack with the butt end inward, and the top end outward (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22

Next, the top end is passed over the butt end and bent between the first and second posts into the product, it is bent around the second post from the inside and brought out between the second and third posts. The butt end between the first and second posts is bent outward, the second post is circled from the outside, and between the second and third posts it is bent inward, while shifting this end of the rod through the top end.

Ways to finish the edge of the product

The weaving of the sides of baskets, bags and other products ends with a bend, or a special sealing of the edge. Such a kind of border securely fixes the product, gives it strength and rigidity, and also decorates the surface. Bending is performed in various ways. The simplest of them is simple bending for one rack. All racks, starting with the first, are bent from left to right, they go around the right rack standing next to them from the inside and bring them out between the first two racks on the left (Fig. 23). The ends of the racks can also be brought in. Under the first post, you can put a special lining 7.5–8 mm long and equal in thickness to the post. When the weaving comes to an end, the lining is removed, and the last rack is filled in its place.

Rice. 23. Weaving bends

At simple bending for two racks the first (leftmost) rack is folded from left to right and inward. Inside, they bend around the next (second) rack, and outside the third, and lead the end of the rod inward between the third and fourth racks. Other racks are braided in the same way. The lining is placed under the bases of the first and second racks. In this case, the ends of the rods are brought inward, but you can also bring them outward, after cutting off the weaving.

Simple bending for three racks. The first rack is bent from left to right behind the second rack from the inside, and the third and fourth - from the outside, and between the fourth and fifth, its end is bent inward (Fig. 24).

Rice. 24. Weaving bends

All racks are braided in the same way. Linings are placed under the bases of the first two, which are removed after: the weaving circle closes The ends are cut with secateurs

There are other, more complex bending methods: bending into four rods, into three and four pairs of rods. Such weaving requires care and accuracy so that the edge pattern is beautiful and symmetrical.

Another way to decorate the edge is to weave a pigtail from the ends of the racks. Such a seal takes more time, but gives the basket a special beauty and expressiveness.

In addition, there are also overhead pigtails, which are made separately and then attached to the product.

Edge braid of three pairs of rods. Under one rack (right) place the lining and bend it to the right and out. In the same way, the second rack is also bent (Fig. 25, but) under the base of the second post, a lining is placed on top of the bent first post and the first post is bent inward between the third and fourth (Fig. 25, b). The third rack is bent through the rod of the first rack to the right and outward (Fig. 25, in), and the rod of the second rack - outward between the fourth and fifth racks (Fig. 25, e). The fourth rack is bent to the right and down next to the rod of the first rack, thus obtaining the first pair of rods (Fig. 25, in). The rod of the third rack is bent on top of the first pair inward between the fifth and sixth racks, and the end of the second rod is bent outward between these racks (Fig. 25, g).

To get the second pair of rods, the fifth post is bent outward next to the second post bar, then the first pair (the first and fourth posts) is bent over the second pair (the second and fifth posts) and brought out between the sixth and seventh.

The third pair of rods is the third and sixth racks, which are bent over the first pair outward between the sixth and seventh racks (Fig. 25, h). The second pair is bent inward between the seventh and eighth posts, and the first pair of posts is bent around the inside of the seventh post and brought out between the seventh and eighth. With the rods of the first pair, the seventh rack is bent outward - the first three rods are formed (the first, fourth and seventh racks). Then the third pair (third and sixth) is bent over the first three inward between the eighth and ninth racks, and the second pair and eighth rack outward, getting the second triple of racks (second, fifth and eighth).

Rice. 25. Weaving an edge braid from three pairs of rods

From the first three, they take two fourth and seventh racks, bend them over the second three inward between the ninth and tenth, and bend the third pair (third and sixth) together with the ninth outward (Fig. 25, And).

Further weaving scheme: from the leftmost three of the three, two racks (the third is not cut off) are bent up and inward between the two racks on the left, and the innermost left pair is outward with the rack on the left, etc. (Fig. 25, to).

Edge braid with additional rods. Under the bases of the first two racks on the right, rods are placed, they are bent from left to right and outward (Fig. 26, but).

Rice. 26. Weaving an edge braid with lining of additional rods

The first pair of rods is bent over the second pair inward between the first stoics on the left. 1 the top of the bent first pair is bent to the left with racks, the third rack is to the right and out, an additional rod is placed next to it (Fig. 26, b) without tightening the weave too tight.

The second pair is bent to the right, and on top of the third they are passed inward between the next two racks, the fourth rack and the first pair are bent on top of it (Fig. 26, in). The second pair of rods turns out to be bent inward, and the third pair and the first three are brought out.

Next, the third pair is bent inward between the fifth and sixth racks on top of the first triple, and the third pair, together with the fifth rack, is folded outward (the second triple). A pair of rods from the outer leftmost three are transferred through the three on the right, and between the leftmost racks they are bent inward; the leftmost pair is folded inside together with the leftmost stand outward, continuing such weaving until the circuit closes (Fig. 26, e). The ends of the rods are cut off.

Edge braid with additional racks. Additional rods serve to form three paired racks. The weaving scheme is shown in fig. 27. The remaining ends of the three pairs must be braided inside the pigtails, and the ends cut off.

If the basket has a lid, then it is necessary to make a strong supporting shelf for it. This may be a thick row, consisting of four or five rods (Fig. 28). A hoop is made of durable material, equal in circumference to a basket, and attached to it. In the intervals between the first and second racks, the rod must be bent from the outside below the frame. After that, from the bottom up, spirally from left to right, they bend around the hoop rod from the outside, between the third and fourth posts they bend it inward, and between the fourth and fifth, they bring it out (Fig. 29). The second rod is laid under the hoop rod between the third and fourth posts. Next to the first, they bend around the hoop rod from the bottom up, between the fourth and fifth racks they bend it inward, and between the fifth and sixth they bring it out. In the same way, two more rods are woven (if a row of four rods) or three (if a row of five rods). Further weaving is continued in the same way, starting from the end of the first rod.

Rice. 27. Weaving oblique bend

Rice. 28. Ways of weaving a thick row

Rice. 29. Weaving an edge braid of five pairs of rods

At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the rods fit evenly, closing the hoop. Next, the hoop is braided in a spiral along with the racks.

Other types of weaving

openwork weaving

This type of weaving can only be done from racks that are intertwined in a variety of ways, or rods for weaving are used (fixing racks at the beginning of weaving and fastening openwork weaving with a rope, etc.). Products made using the openwork weaving method are distinguished by lightness and elegance, since the space between the racks is not filled. However, most often openwork weaving is combined with other types (Fig. 30).

Rice. thirty. Types of openwork weaving

On fig. 31 shows examples of openwork weaving, including trimming edges and borders with openwork.

Rice. 31. The end of weaving openwork

Weaving

This type of weaving is most often used when creating wicker furniture (table tops, side walls and chair seats, etc.). For weaving, it is preferable to use not whole rods, but willow ribbons, as they are more elastic. You can also combine willow ribbons and rods, various plant materials, and use artificial materials. However, this requires special artistic taste and caution, since such materials do not always combine favorably.

Cloths consist of two parts: longitudinal tapes - warps and transverse - wefts. The warp can be made of round rods (thickness 10 - 12 mm), plates or willow strips, wefts - from willow strips, round rods (thickness 5-7 mm) or artificial materials.

On a sheet of plywood or a board, tapes or rods of the base are laid out and both or one end is fixed, from which weaving begins. The position of the duck parts depends on the weaving pattern: a square cage will turn out if the rods are shifted through one; “Parquet” will turn out if the rods are shifted through two, so that each weft rod passes between two warp rods that are in the same cell. "Parquet" canvas can be made from paired tapes or rods.

Rice. 32

Plates of this type are widely used for chair seats, sunbeds, table tops.

diamond weave

It is created by various combinations of rods and ribbons (Fig. 32). A particularly interesting effect will be obtained if the warp and wefts are of different colors. Weaving starts most often from the middle, and then leads in different directions. In this case, the first weft rod is placed in the middle under the middle part of the warp rod - these are the weaving axes that will pass through the tops of the rhombus. We continue weaving in both directions: three warp rods are covered with a weft on top, and under the next three it is placed below, etc. The following two weft rods from the bottom and top of the horizontal axial are placed in middle parts on five warp rods in the axial vertical in the middle. Next, the duck rods are laid under the three warp rods from the bottom and the next three from the top.

In order for all sides of the rhombus to be even, the number of weft and warp rods must be the same. But you can start weaving from one of the edges.

Weaving from the vine of the simplest products

basket weaving

In many cases, templates are used to create round or oval baskets, which helps maintain the proportions of the product and reduces the waviness of the rods. The weaving of any basket in its classical sense begins with the manufacture of the bottom. The shape and size of the basket depends on how it will be. Accordingly, depending on the structure of the bottom, the types of baskets are also distinguished (Fig. 33).

Rice. 33. Patterns for weaving

Bottom making

for weaving round bottom for the basket you will need 8 rods with a thickness of 8-10 mm, the length of the rods is determined based on the height of the basket. The rods are split in the middle, and the remaining rods are inserted into the splits of four rods at a right angle (Fig. 34, but). Starting from the top parts, the resulting cross is braided with two rods according to the “rope” principle. After two rows of weaving around the cross have been completed, the rods are bred in two, two or three more rows are woven with a rope (Fig. 34, b) and then one by one and again braid them with a rope. The distance between the rods should be the same, and the weave should be tight. After the rods are fixed with a rope, weaving can be continued in the usual way in two rods. Weaving is also finished with a rope, which gives the bottom a special strength.

Rice. 34. Weaving the bottom of the basket

Weaving oval bottom does not differ fundamentally from that described above, except that the rods are divided into lateral and longitudinal. To make the bottom, you will need four long rods (45 cm) and eight short ones (30 cm). Longitudinal rods are inserted into the splits of the transverse rods and they are braided with two rows of ropes of two rods. Then the ends of the racks are evenly spread apart in different directions and again fixed with two rows of rope in two rods. Further weaving can be simple, and you need to finish weaving the bottom again with two rows of rope.

Square and rectangular bottoms have the same structure. Depending on the size of the basket, the required number of rods of the same length and thickness is prepared. The distance between the uprights also ranges from 40 to 15 mm. To fix the racks, they are laid out on a board, a plate or rail is placed on one of their sides and fixed (Fig. 35).

As in other cases, weaving a square bottom begins and ends with a rope, and the middle can be decorated with simple weaving. When the end post is rounded, weaving must be continued in the opposite direction until the rod ends. Increase it in the middle of the bottom.

Rice. 35

Rack mounting

In baskets with an oval or round bottom, rods for racks are chosen of the same size, their butt ends are cut obliquely or planed in a circle. The rods are inserted next to the bottom base post, along the side walls of the oval bottom, one side post is placed next to the bottom base post and two on the end roundings. After that, the racks are bent at a right angle and fastened with several rows of rope into two rods (Fig. 36).

In round bottoms, the side posts are evenly spaced around the entire circumference near each bottom post.

Rice. 36. Fastening basket racks

If the bottom is rectangular, planed posts are placed in its end sides in the same way. Their sides are cut off into a “mustache” or “spade” and inserted under the braid into the holes made. After the butt ends of the side posts are fixed, they are lifted up and fixed with two rows of rope. So that when weaving the rods-risers do not diverge, a template hoop is attached to four of them, and the walls are woven with simple layered weaving.

If the bottom of the basket is made of plywood, it is nailed around the circumference of the rack. A plate is placed on top of the rack and fixed with nails, after which the racks are fixed with two rows of rope.

Racks can also be attached with simple loops. To do this, use round rods or plates. From the outside, a rack is applied to the upper hoop with the butt part up, it is bent inward around the hoop, and the end is brought out on the left side of the rack. The same end is bent from left to right from the outside through the rack and along the hoop from the bottom side. In the same way, the second post is fixed at a distance three times its thickness, while fixing the end of the first post. Further fastening is carried out in the same way.

To make the fastening more reliable, you can use a double loop. The method of weaving is the same, with the only difference being that two turns around the hoop are made with a rod. In this case, it is better to cut the rack by 1/3 of its thickness to the length of the double bend of the hoop and fasten the rod to the hoop with the cut side.

Racks can also be attached with a lingering loop. The stand is applied with a cut-off part to the hoop from the outside, it is bent around the hoop, taken out from the left side of the stand, shifted from left to right through the stand and again bent from bottom to inside and up outward, tucking the end of the stand into a loop. The loop is tightened by pulling on both ends of the stoic.

Handle attachment methods

The shape and method of fastening the handles depend on the purpose and appearance of the product. Handles can be soft, hard, folding, attached, or simply decorative. The handle in a utilitarian product must be firmly fixed and withstand significant loads, while in women's bags, decorative design comes to the fore. The thickness of the handles depends on the size of the basket and can be made from debarked or unbarked rods.

Handles can be made from one or two rods, as well as from a whole bunch. In addition, handles can also be made from other natural or artificial materials (metal rods, leather, etc.).

The simplest type of handle is an ordinary hole in the wall of the product. You can make bow handles from additional rods that are attached to a basket or bag after braiding the hem. In baskets made from two perpendicular hoops, one handle can be made - it is half of one of the hoops. Such handles can be braided with plastic ribbons or round wicker.

Handles can also have a rigid, as well as a hinged mount (Fig. 37).

For this purpose, wire is woven together with the bottom racks and the walls of the basket. After the sides of the basket are braided, loops are made of wire, which are attached to those woven into the handles. The handle can also be made from a special blank. In the side wall of the basket, the rods are moved apart, where the prepared, pre-moistened handles are filled. The ends cut obliquely are wound to the main handle with willow ribbons or rods.

Rice. 37. Rigid and hinged handles

Cap making

If a lid is provided in the basket, then at the end of weaving the walls of the basket, a rope of five rods is woven out of them so that the ends of the rods of one rope converge with the ends of the rods of the rope on the other side and do not overlap each other. For this, additional rods are connected by the corresponding ends . After weaving with a rope is completed, the risers of the walls are tied into a bundle, tilting them, and tied in this position with thin short rods in layered weaving (4–6 cm). The tapering part of the walls of the basket is finished by weaving a rope into two pairs of rods (Fig. 38).

Rice. 38. Cap making

The upper part of the lid is woven in the same way as the bottom of the basket, only thinner rods are selected. In addition, the dimensions of the lid must match the dimensions of the bottom. When the top of the lid is ready, risers are placed in it and braided with a rope of four rods. Having bent the risers, a rope of three rods is woven on them from two places. After the height of the walls of the lid has reached the desired height, weaving is completed by bending into three pairs of rods, in which the ends of the risers from the inside are bent, passing through one riser.

The lid is fixed in such a way that it tightly closes the basket. Loops for these purposes can be made of wire or wicker. You can also make a lock to close the basket.

It is made from a single bundle of rods, starting weaving from the bottom. The size of the rods used depends on the desired size of the product. With a willow ribbon, the butt ends of the rods are tightly tied into a tight bundle. The rods of the beam are racks that are spread apart and braided to your liking - with a rope, simple weaving, in one, two rods, etc. (Fig. 39).

After the racks are fixed, you can continue with the usual weaving.

Rice. 39. planter

Coasters for dishes

These products are relatively easy to manufacture and will find application in any home (Fig. 40). To weave a round stand (diameter 13 cm), you will need 12 racks 35 cm long and one additional rack 20 cm long. The racks are folded crosswise, an additional rack is applied to one half so that their total number is odd.

Rice. 40. Dish stand

The crossed racks are bent around with a thin stem and braided around the crosspiece in the form of a spiral. After completing the first few turns, the groups of racks are divided into pairs, while the additional rack should remain alone. Further, the spiral interlacing of the racks around the first turns continues. The coils should be very tight, without clearance, adjacent to each other. After several turns are made, the pairs of racks are divided into single ones and weaving continues. There is another way to weave a coaster from more racks. Racks must be laid in four groups in the form of eight rays diverging from the center, add an additional rack to one of the groups. Still undivided groups of racks are braided according to the darning principle in two rows: after several turns passed over and under the same groups, the next turns are passed over those racks that were on top of the turns and vice versa.

Rice. 41. spiral weaving

There is another way to lay the same number of racks at the beginning of work (their number can be even, then there is no need for an additional rack). The same 12 rack-rods are folded crosswise in bunches of 6 rods. A long thin rod is folded in half, braided around the crossed racks and continued to weave in a spiral, crossing the ends of a thin stem in front of each group of racks. After dividing the groups of racks into single, both ends of the thin stem are woven close to each other. The racks are braided until the diameter of the stand reaches 12.5 cm. The finished product is placed in water for several hours, after which the softened racks are folded onto the wrong side of the work (the front is considered the upper, working side). Round wicker parts look more attractive if their edges are laced, for which additional racks are placed in the walls of the product.

To make a smaller stand for a cup of hot coffee, a small teapot or a vase of flowers, you will need 6 rods of medium thickness, 10 cm long, for the frame; 24 rods of 30 cm for the border; thin vine for weaving. The crosspiece of the frame is made of crossbars of three rods each. The cross is braided twice with a rope, after which all the rods of the cross are separated and weaving continues until the diameter of the base becomes 6 cm.

Material: 8 thick rods 30 cm long for the frame; 32 rods 42.5 cm long for the uprights of the sides; 2 rods with a diameter of 2.8 cm, a length of 30 cm for handles; 4 handle guides - short cuttings of a vine with a diameter of 2.8 cm, pointed at one end; thin rods for weaving the base and sides of the tray; planed tape for braiding handles.

frame for the base of the tray is made in the same way as for the stand. The frame is braided several times: first with a rope of two rods until the diameter of the base is 15 cm, then three times with a rope of three rods, five times with a rope of two rods and again three times with a triple rope. In the process of weaving, it is necessary to ensure that the base of the tray does not bend.

All protruding ends of the rods are cut off, and pre-sharpened rods for the racks of the side of the tray are inserted into the base. In order for the racks to bend without breaking, the very edges of the base of the tray must be squeezed with pliers. The ends of the bent posts are brought together over the base and tied tightly.

Disembarkation. With the help of this operation, the direction of the weaving of the tray is changed when moving from the base to its walls. To do this, three rods of medium thickness must be sharpened at one end and inserted into the base next to three adjacent racks. The stand to the left of the first rod is marked - there will be a “transition” in this place. The base is braided once with a rope so that the weave fits snugly against the base, and goes first down, then up and around the rack. All racks must be at the same distance from each other, so they must be moved apart during operation.

Rice. 42. Tray

After five more rows are woven with a rope, the racks are untied and guides for future handles are inserted. The distance between the guides should be about 10 cm.

Edge. At a distance of 0.7 cm from the woven edge of the side, all the racks are squeezed with pliers so that they can be easily bent to one side. Three adjacent racks are bent and the weaving of the edge of the three rods begins. The edge is woven with a simple bend, threading each rack in turn inside the tray. The ends are cut.

Pens. Blanks for handles must be moistened, their ends sharpened and bent in an arc. Remove the guides and insert handles in their place. The end of the tape for braiding, face down, is inserted into the side to the right of one of the ends of the handle. The end of the braid that goes inside the tray should be 15 cm. With this end of the braid, go around the edge on the same - right - side of the handle and again thread it through the side at the same level, but already on the left side of the handle. Then the long end is passed over the edge to the left of the handle so that you can start wrapping the handle. The short end of the braid must be braided to the handle. A piece of tape is laid over the handle, inserting the ends into the edge next to the ends of the handles. Then it is necessary to wrap the handle tightly at the base three times, thread the end of the braid under the segment that runs along the handle, tighten and wrap the handle again over this segment.

In the same sequence, they braid the entire handle. For strength, you can fix the braid at both ends of the handle with studs.

If desired, the tray can be made without handles and used as a bread box or fruit basket (Fig. 42).

For large and small paintings and photographs, the frame is made in the same way. Only the thickness and length of the laths of the unwoven frame, the pitch of the holes for the bending rods and its height depend on the size of the picture (for a 9x10 mm photograph, its height is 3 cm).

Material (for a frame measuring 320x465x1.5 mm): 4 strips 15x15 mm of the appropriate size; (for a photo 9x 12 cm - 12x 12 mm); 16 screws with a diameter of 2 - 2.5 mm, about 12 mm long; a long rod for ropes with a diameter of 1.5 mm (ends with a diameter of 1 mm); 4 rectangular plywood triangles measuring 2x8 cm; 100 rods diameter 2- 2.5cm long 11cm; 24 rods diameter 2~ 2.5mm long 15cm; 120 rods with a diameter of 2 mm, a length of 12–13 cm (for a pigtail).

All 4 rails for the frame must be cut 1 cm longer than the nominal size to fit the joints at the corners. The outer corners of the rails and the right angle of all triangles are twisted. The outer sides of the front surface of all 4 rails of the frame are rounded, the joints of each corner of the frame are aligned and the correct assembly of the rectangle is checked with a template - a sheet of paper cut exactly to the size of the photo. There should be a gap of about 0.5 mm between each long side of the template and the bar so that the photo can be framed.

On the slats, every 1.5 cm, mark the centers of vertical and horizontal holes for rods and holes for screws with a diameter of 2 mm, in the corners -

10 mm Before drilling holes, the upper part of one of the frame strips (preferably short) is cut off so that a photo can be pushed in there.

The frame is assembled by placing a triangle from below to the planks and screwing it to the planks with screws, sawing the ends of the screws protruding beyond the plank.

The butt side of the rods is sharpened and inserted into the holes so that their butt part protrudes 1 mm from the planks into the frame. Rods 11 cm long are placed in all horizontal holes, and rods 15 cm long are placed in the corner holes. Rods 13 cm long are inserted into all vertical holes and, starting from the middle of the long side, an edge pigtail in three rods. The rods are bent outward (pigtail in this case will move inward as much as possible and will hold the picture well) and weave clockwise. The last bent rod is fixed with a clothespin.

Weaving begins with a pigtail, not an edge, so that the rods do not break in the process of weaving a braid. The rods are inserted into the horizontal holes immediately around the entire perimeter of the frame with butt parts and weave three rows of rope with rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm. When bending, the rods are bent from left to right, and the next rod is taken from the left. Before bending, the rods must be wetted and sharpened with their ends sticking up. We bend the rods according to the following scheme: 2 rods are bent from below, 1 from above (behind the second, in front of the first) and the pointed end is placed in the rope next to the next rod Bending height - 4 cm After bending around the entire perimeter, several rods in each of the corners place them connections with a rope are fixed with glue.

The product is varnished and after it dries, all protruding ends are cut off.

Cardboard is glued to the triangles and a photograph is placed in a frame. A pigtail protruding 1.5 mm into the contour of the photo will hold it in the frame.

Basket for vegetables

This is the easiest type of basket to make. The first stage is the manufacture of a frame from a walnut or willow stick of medium thickness. Two hoops of the same size are bent from a stick, cutting off the ends of the sticks into a wedge (Fig. 43).

The ends of the hoop are fastened and the hoop is inserted one into the other. The crossing points are intertwined with a rod or willow ribbon, firmly securing the cross. There are several ways to braid a cross. The longitudinal risers of the basket are made of thicker rods, the length of which must correspond to the length of the lower arc so that the basket is equal-sided. Further, starting from the cross, the bottom of the basket is braided with simple weaving towards the middle.

Rice. 43. Weaving the hoop frame and the bottom of the basket

Basket

Material: 10 thick rods 32.5 cm long for the bottom of the basket; 40 thick rods 55 cm long for racks; 40 thick rods for additional racks 15 cm long; material of medium thickness for weaving the base of the basket, walls and handles; tape 1 cm wide; a rod 1 m long and 8-10 mm in diameter for a handle; 2 guides for the handle with a diameter of 6 or 10 mm.

Anishv. 5 rods out of 10 prepared for the frame are pierced in the middle with an awl. Without removing the awl, in this hole, expanding it, insert the remaining five rods one at a time so that a crosspiece is obtained. Stepping back from the middle, one thin rod is bent around one of the crossbars. The cross is braided with a rope. At the beginning of the third row of weaving, each crossbar of the cross is divided into pairs of rods, holding them with your fingers. They make three rows, and then divide the crosses into single rods and continue weaving until the diameter of the bottom reaches 30 cm. Strengthen 40 side racks, squeeze them with pliers at the very edge of the base of the basket, bend the racks and tightly tie the ends.

The racks at the base are braided with six rows of ropes of three rods, and the first row can be braided with a rope of four rods. In this case, four braiding rods are inserted into the base and each left rod is passed in front of three posts and behind one post. When moving to a rope of three rods, the first rod goes around the marked rack. The transition is made, as usual, with the remaining three rods, and weaving is continued with an ordinary rope. It turned out a solid base of the basket. Untie racks. The ends of the additional racks are pointed and inserted on the right side of each of the main racks (to give the basket more strength).

The end of one piece of tape is fixed between two posts and all the posts are braided with straight weaving.

Pens. From different sides of the basket against each other, guide rods are inserted for its base. Six rows of rope are woven with three rods, the protruding ends of the additional racks are cut. The walls are finished with a simple rope. The rod for the handle should not be too long so that the basket does not seem bulky. The ends of the rod are sharpened and inserted into the place of the guides. From a vine of medium thickness, rods are cut 37.5 cm longer than the length of the base of the handle, one end is sharpened. On each side of the basket to the left of the base of the handle, five rods are inserted and five go around the base of the handle from the outside, three or four turns are made around this base so that the rods cover it along its entire length, going towards each other from the right and left ends of the handle. The ends of the braid are brought out through the gaps between the posts to the right of the handle, and then one by one they bend around the handle at the edge of the basket. The ends of the rods are passed inside the basket to the left of the handle and the ends are filled. The basket is ready.

The cup of the flower is made in the same way as the bottom of the round basket. The cross is made of three pairs of rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 4 cm. Rods with a diameter of up to 1 mm are twisted until the diameter of the product reaches 3 cm. etc. On the left of each of the trimmed racks of the bottom, with pointed ends, bent rods with a diameter of 1.5 and a length of 14 cm are inserted into the weave. This

there will be the first, lowest corolla of petals, the height of which is 5.5 cm. The roundness of the petal is given by slightly pressing its tip with a finger down in the direction of the cup. All petals are slightly bent outward. While the calyx is still wet, make it slightly concave.

12 rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 11 cm are bent in the middle, inserted and shaped in the same way as the petals of the 1st corolla. To the right of the first and third racks of the bottom, over the petals of the 1st corolla, insert the first petal of the 2nd corolla 4.5 cm high. The second petal of this corolla is inserted over the 1st one to the left of the second and fourth racks of the bottom and the remaining 10 petals are also inserted. Then bend them up already. The remaining racks of the cup are cut off completely (before weaving).

Just like the petals of the 1st and 2nd corolla, 6 petals are made from rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 10 cm. On the left, the second and fourth racks of the bottom insert the first petal of the 3rd corolla over the already inserted petals. Its height is 3 cm. Having inserted it, it is strongly bent upwards. The second petal is also made, inserting it to the left of the fourth and sixth pillars of the cup. 4 more petals are inserted in the same way.

Near each rack of the cup, 4 rods should be inserted, and near one of them there is also a rod of the petiole of the flower. The joints of the rods are fixed with glue.

The petiole is a light brown rod with a diameter of 2.5–3 mm. When wet, it is slightly arched, chiselled, and inserted next to one of the cup posts.

The flower is varnished and, after drying, all protruding ends are cut off.

To make the center of a chocolate-colored flower, before varnishing it must be smeared with glue, and then with stain.

Cage for birds

The weaving of the cage begins with the manufacture of the bottom, for the basis of which stick-risers are used. Their number is determined by the size of the bottom. The risers are straightened, planed and inserted into the hole of the board, and the extreme risers must be paired. The bottom is first braided with a rope in two rods, and then they switch to simple weaving. They finish weaving with a rope in two rods, making sure that the weaving is tight in the course of work.

The risers of the cage are woven with a rope and three rods, starting from each corner and going beyond the rest, until the rods run out. The risers of the cage are left unbraided.

4 sticks are nailed to the corner risers at the desired height parallel to the bottom, the middle of which is twisted with a rope into two rods to give the cage strength (Fig. 44).

Rice. 44. Cage for birds

The lid of the cage is made in the same way as the bottom, only with a more rare weaving. A bend in three pairs of rods is woven along the edges of the lid.

The lid is hinged to the cage, in front of it a lock is made in the form of a hook or loop.

braiding

Since ancient times, large bottles for liquid have been used in the household. To prevent such bottles from breaking during transportation or storage, they were braided with willow twigs or placed in a special case.

It is not difficult to make such a case; its weaving is almost the same as making a round basket. The size and shape depend on the bottle.

If the bottle is not very large, it is better to braid it with a continuous weave. The bottom is woven the same as for round baskets, only a slightly larger diameter than the bottom of the bottle. The risers are strengthened in the same way (Fig. 45), the bottom is finished by weaving a rope into three or four rods.

Rice. 45. Braiding the bottle

Next, you need to bend another riser so that their number is odd, and braid the risers with willow ribbon. In order for the shape of the braid to match the shape of the bottle, in the tapering part, the risers are connected in pairs and, after continuing to weave a little, one riser in a pair is cut off. Further weaving is continued in the same way, and finished with a bend.

For greater convenience, a handle can be attached to the bottle.

fruit bowl

Fruit bowl dimensions: height - 18 cm, top diameter - 21 cm, stand diameter - 14 cm, bottom diameter - 10 cm. Shape - half-open bud.

Material: 8 rods with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 115 mm (for the bottom); 20 rods with a diameter of 1–1.5 mm, 50 cm long (for the bottom); 48 rods with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 90 cm (for the main racks of the wall); 48 rods with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of approximately 45 cm (for additional wall studs).

The bottom is woven with a rope in two rods until its diameter reaches 10 cm. An ordinary oven pot can serve as a template. Before inserting the wall racks, 2 adjacent bottom racks are cut (but not all at once), to the right of each rack, 3 wet rods of the wall rack are inserted with a cut to the bottom rack (their butts are cut “on the mustache” on one side and pointed). Crimp, bend up and tie all the wall racks into a bundle. Weave 4 rows of landing (ropes of three rods, where the first rod lies not on top of the next two, but below them) with rods with a diameter of 1.5 mm. They untie the racks, insert the form and tightly tie it to the bottom. At the same time, a form for a stand in the form of a truncated cone 3 cm high is tied from below, the upper diameter is equal to the diameter of the bottom, and the lower one is 3–4 cm larger than it. The rods of the wall racks are bent from left to right at a height of approximately 14 cm at the widest point of the pot (so that you can take out the mold) according to the scheme: in front of the third, behind the second, and bring it out near the bottom

The bend is done only under the elastic band. The next troika for bending is taken from the left and, having passed the troikas through the landing ropes, they are brought out. Next, the ends are soaked and braided over the cone according to the scheme: behind the second, before the second, behind the first, and the ends are brought out. The ends are soaked again and braided like this: from the bottom of the first wall stand, from the top of the first stand, the ends are led behind the wall stand over the rope and cut off there. The bottom bend should end at the bottom of the cone; do it the same way as the top.

Prepare additional racks and bend them in the same way as the main ones, inserting them into the rope between the main racks. Their pointed ends are inserted into the ropes between the main posts and glued. The distance between the upper borders of the first and second bends should be approximately 3 cm. Coat the product with varnish from the inside and out, and after it dries, cut off all protruding ends.

Rice. 46. fruit bowl