Etching of brass products. Question about etching brass. Chemical etching of non-ferrous metal surfaces

1. Development of the layout

The tasks were as follows: try to make handrails, make handwheels for davits, stop anchors, ladders, anchor chains, ladders for pipes, five-pointed stars and a double-headed eagle
Drawn in CorelDRAW. On the layout, I made all the lines at least 0.18 mm thick, only on 4 rails for the experiment I made 0.10 mm (looking ahead, I’ll say that I didn’t manage to feel the difference here).

It turned out this:

At the end, in order to “fill in” the free space, I printed a steering wheel and a star from character fonts. It was already too lazy to pull "sprues" to them.

2. Preparation of materials

I diluted ferric chloride in a jar of mayonnaise (I poured a third of a jar of powder and poured boiled water (warm) into two-thirds). On the bank it was written: "Dilute 1 to 3", but I decided not to bother about this.
Ferric chloride chose as the most affordable. for me (the RADIO DETAIL store got caught sooner than HOUSEHOLD GOODS) You can also poison with copper sulphate, hydrochloric acid with hydroperite, nitric acid.

Cut from copper? (maybe some kind of alloy, because it wildly springed) about 0.2mm thick foil piece according to the size of the master and carefully cleaned it.

3. Transferring the layout to foil

The printer, unfortunately, printed disgustingly. I just refilled a cartridge for him and, apparently, the remnants of spilled toner made themselves felt ...

But there is nothing to do - I chose a more or less clean place on the sheet and placed the master there.

I cut out a sheet of A4 format from the substrate of the ORAKAL film, printed the master on it and ran to iron it.
I put foil on top of the printout and ironed it through a couple of sheets of paper with an iron (at maximum heat) for about two minutes. The master did not fit on a piece of foil :(, well, nothing ...

Again, I used a film holder due to availability. Many use glossy magazines and even aluminum foil - there is a lot of room for experimentation. I was afraid to shove foil into the printer - suddenly the edges will scratch the drum.

4. Etching

This is where I made my biggest mistake. I had to close the other side of the foil. The articles advised painting over with nitro or sticking it with tape. True, someone warned that it would be difficult to tear off details from adhesive tape, but I was reluctant to paint, because of the smell and loss of time, and the film was "at hand". "It will lag behind in the solvent," I decided, and, without thinking twice, covered it up with a white ORACAL, deciding that the etching process would be clearly visible on white.

I poured a solution of ferric chloride from a mayonnaise jar into a plastic substrate from under the products (a commonly available analogue of a photo cell) and put foil there.

The etching process is boring to disgrace. To speed it up, I blew on the solution, creating a flow. Apparently, this should not have been done. It seemed to me that the etching went faster where I blew, with all the sad consequences.

The plate was etched unevenly

Apparently there were several reasons: both my "blowing", and errors in the development of the master, and the bending of the plate. As a result, the handrails, due to lateral etching, began to "disappear" in the middle, while the ladders had not yet been etched through.

To avoid all this, it is necessary that the plate is placed horizontally and the solution is mixed as evenly as possible. The etched surface must be carefully sanded/polished and degreased.

Deciding to wash under water and cut off the finished lifelines, I made a second mistake - some of the lines were washed away, along with some helms, to which I was too lazy to reach the sprues.

I managed to separate the details from the film with great difficulty. Wiping with acetone did nothing. The rails were torn during separation. I threw the small things in acetone entirely. The film fell off, but the glue layer swelled up to 1 mm thick and did not want to dissolve. It was the first hour of the night, and I just erased it with my fingers ...

Then I found out that it was necessary to gasoline it.. Here's what happened:

But in the future, my choice is clear NC varnish.

In conclusion, I want to say: I was satisfied with the experiment. Despite the fact that more or less only stop anchors and several handwheels turned out from the details, I gained "invaluable" experience and a firm conviction that it is possible and necessary to poison at home. The whole process took me 3 hours. I consider the cost of materials to be insignificant - the foil was inherited from the pantry, ferric chloride is still useful.

Here are some conclusions that I made for myself:

The development of the master largely determines the quality of future details. If possible, you should not place complex (ladders with handrails) and simple (handrails) elements together. You should not get carried away with small details (it was in vain that I made buttresses in the anchor chains, although the ladders came out fine).
It is necessary to achieve uniform etching of all areas, it is in it that the guarantee of quality.

In the future I plan to experiment with "bulk" etching.

I am happy to hear advice and criticism of my actions.

METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for the controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the action of specially selected chemical reagents.

A number of ways METAL ETCHING provides for the activation of etching reagents through other physical phenomena, for example, the application of an external electric field during electrochemical etching, the ionization of atoms and molecules of reagents during ion-plasma etching, etc.

In the literature, the term "etching" is usually accompanied by a definition explaining the specific etching technology- chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical, etc. When using the term "etching" without further definition, as a rule, it means chemical etching of metal in an aqueous electrolyte.

For artistic metal etching When a part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

chemical etching of metal- "liquid" etching
electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
ion-plasma - "dry" etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING we use the most used technologies: chemical etching of metal and galvanic etching.

METAL etching - features

Etching, as one of the stages electroplating used for preliminary preparation of metal products for the application of protective coatings. With its help, a pre-degreased surface is cleaned of oxide films for better adhesion of the galvanic layer to the base.

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Etching copper is widely used by us for processing copper clichés, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

We fulfill copper pickling and pickling brass chemical or galvanic way. We select the type of pickling solution, its concentration and processing time individually, and the parameters of the solution depend on the thickness of the oxide film to be removed.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Metal chemical etching called a method of reproducing various patterns, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemical means. on the surface of metal objects.

Chemical pickling brass , chemical copper pickling and their alloys is based on the reaction of special mordant compositions with the base surface, as a result of which oxide films are dissolved. For processing, we use solutions of concentrated acids, in which the products are placed for a certain time. In this way we perform preliminary or glossy etching. Obtaining a matte or shiny surface with chemical etching of metal we regulate the degree of acid concentration and holding time.

galvanic etching

Galvanic etching of metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over metal chemical etching and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself pickling electroplating way is much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical pickling technology both in terms of time and volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which, when galvanic etching gases harmful to health are not formed.

At galvanic way etching copper and brass products (anode) are placed in galvanic bath with pickling solution. As electrolytes, we use solutions of orthophosphoric, hydrochloric and sulfuric acids. Reagents (lead salts) are added to the electrolyte to prevent overetching of the surface. The oxide film is separated from the metal as a result of the release of oxygen.

If you carefully examine the drawing through a magnifying glass, chemically etched way, it will turn out that the edges of the individual deepened lines are uneven and that the deeper the line, the wider it is etched. At galvanic etching the edges of the individual lines are completely smooth, and the walls of the recesses are vertical.

Pre-treatment of the object is also applied when galvanic etching.

The processed object serving as the anode is suspended in galvanic bath, containing a pickle, on a wire that is soldered with tin solder to an uncovered place, the place of soldering is varnished. The other end of the wire is connected to a plate of the same metal that serves as the cathode. As a pickle for steel and iron, we use iron sulphate or a solution of ammonia; for copper pickling, pickling brass and bronze - a solution of copper sulfate; for zinc - zinc sulfate or a solution of zinc chloride.

If you need to do and etch different parts of the picture to different depths, then after a certain period of time we remove the object from galvanic bath, rinse those places that do not need to be etched deeper, and apply a protective coating on them, and then hang the object again in galvanic bath and continue etching.

METAL etching - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- sophisticated technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is only for professionals.

Our company has a proven track record galvanic etching and chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all the necessary equipment to carry out METAL ETCHING and in the case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We apply technology metal etching for copper pickling and pickling brass .

By using metal etching technologies we do:

applying a texture or relief pattern in the artistic processing of materials -
production of premium and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plates
production of metal plates: facade plates and office plates
production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
production of logos, trademarks, corporate style items
production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
production of metal objects for wall cladding, entrance groups, fireplaces, portals, gratings
removal of the surface layer of contaminants, oxides, grease, etc., for example, scale from metal blanks
chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer disturbed during the previous mechanical treatment
etc.

We manufacture metal plates and panels mainly using brass. This metal, under the influence of the external environment, oxidizes over time, therefore, we cover the plates with various types of decorative coatings: gold, silver, nickel, bronze, which ensures their safety for a long time. If necessary, the elements of the plate and panel can be painted over with colored enamels.

METAL ETCHING it is produced by us in two ways: it is possible to cover all the lines and surfaces of the pattern with a substance that is affected by the mordant; on the contrary, it is possible to protect all gaps from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the pattern free. If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the drawing will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second - the drawing will come out in-depth.

Etching copper and pickling brass in our production conditions, it virtually eliminates defects due to the use of special equipment and an established system for monitoring the preparation and metal etching.

Our company offers services galvanic etching and for individual and mass production.

After doing metal etching if necessary, we perform grinding, patination and applying a protective layer.

METAL etching - types of products

By using metal etching you can get the most diverse type of copper and brass products, ranging from textured panels to art products and decorations.

Brass pickling , textured panel

Brass pickling , texture with volume

Etching copper, textured panel

Etching copper, textured surface with patterns

Brass pickling , art drawing

Brass pickling , art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

Brass pickling , decorative ornament

METAL ETCHING - our work

METAL ETCHING- decorative moto pads with the author's design, part of the motorcycle tuning, moto pads are made of brass with relief engraving and three-dimensional image application, for contrast levels, the background is blackened and matte polished

Brass pickling- embossed plates for decorating the facade of a country house

Brass pickling- a copy of the coat of arms of the times of the USSR for a gift box made of wood, on a metal coat of arms with a diameter of 6 cm, all elements are worked out with a high degree of detail, enamel painting and artificial aging as a finish

Metal pickling- the family coat of arms of the noble family of the Russian Empire "Safonovs", the relief coat of arms is made of brass, the background is oxidized, the upper plan is polished, the finished coat of arms is placed in a frame according to the style

Brass pickling- a gift panel made of metal "Brahmananda Avadhuta", diameter 36 cm; a portrait of a guru, a lotus and a decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, 2 types of grinding and polishing create shine and reflection of individual groups of elements of the composition

Brass pickling- gift panel made of metal "Shiva", diameter 33 cm; the portrait and decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, combined polishing to a mirror shine

Brass pickling- a reproduction of the icon 15x18 cm, made according to the technology etching, line thickness 0.5 mm

Metal pickling- an emblem-skull made of aluminum on the grill of a car, three-dimensional metal carving, pattern etching, assembling a composition from individual elements, oxidation, varnish

Metal pickling- numbers for apartments made of nickel silver, made in high-tech style, relief chemical engraving, directional grinding to give color and texture, number size 7.5x4 cm

Brass pickling- a beer wobbler made of brass for a cafe-buffet is made using the technology of chemical engraving, the size of the wobbler is 30x13 cm, contour sawing and soldering of the holder were carried out, matte polishing and contrast blackening of the background were used

Nickel silver metal plates for decorating table clocks, embossed metal etching with color filling, the size of metal plates is 13x9 and 13x5 cm, respectively, metal grinding to a matte surface

Copies of orders for the restoration of the book "15 years of the Komsomol" were made metal etching, made the Order of the Red Banner and the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, diameter 11 cm, convex relief, aging metal in the color of the original

metal etching a copy of the personal seal of Metropolitan Moses was made (Byzantine period, XI century), the work was made in a gift version in a frame on blue velvet, 2-sided image, the diameter of each seal is 8 cm, the color is "antique silver"

Brass pickling- a metal buckle for a belt, made in a multi-level design, a chased background and a relief image of letters and a coat of arms, size 70x55 mm

2-sided nickel silver medal with a portrait on the front side and the Brandenburg Gate on the reverse side made metal etching, relief image on metal 6 mm thick, medal diameter 6 cm, contrasting blackening and matte polishing were used for finishing

A metal product for a festive event is made etched brass in the shape of a souvenir medal, diameter 15 cm, thickness 5 mm

Family coat of arms, made by technology metal etching, division of elements into zones, filling with colored translucent enamel, decorative frame, oxidation

Etching copper- a damper for the stove, made in a hunting style. Contour cutting of metal and chemical engraving of the picture were used for manufacturing, decorative handles and legs were used for decoration, a frame along the contour with copper rivets

Brass pickling- engraving "Church of the Holy Mother of God", patination and blackening, framed

Metal pickling- decorative panel "Pokrovsky Cathedral", silvering, blackening, size 16x22 cm

2-sided Phaistos disk with a diameter of 10 cm with unique hieroglyphic drawings, made according to the technology metal etching, perfect elaboration of the smallest details and contours with a line thickness of up to 0.2 mm, polishing the surface and filling the lines with color

2-sided sentry ring with a diameter of 10 cm with unique drawings containing information about the ancient calendar system, made using technology metal etching, detailed elaboration of signs on the front surface of the ring and an unusual texture on the reverse side

2-sided Serponov ring with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting a calendar and a map of an ancient civilization, made using technology pickling brass

2-sided star disk from Mittelberg with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of the artifact depicting the oldest world horoscope to date, made using the technology pickling brass, detailed elaboration of elements on the front side and texture on the reverse side

Brass pickling- decorative napkin holder "Calvados", size 18x3.5 cm, background etching and oxidation

Metal pickling- Chased copper plate Temple of Vyacheslav Czech, diameter 35 cm, etching , oxidation, silvering

Metal pickling- gift panel "Fan" made of nickel silver, relief engraving, grinding and blackening

Brass pickling- nameplates for a wooden case with a weapon, made with a protruding relief, look great due to the design with a frame and cutting out the outline along the frame

Brass pickling plate "Sun", made according to the design of a children's hand drawing with the repetition of lines from the movement of the hand, the size of the brass plate is 15x10 cm, chemical engraving, blackening and polishing was used to contrast the background and image

Artistic metal etching , stainless steel etching- number plates made of stainless steel 3 mm, without filling and with graphite filling

METAL ETCHING, stainless steel etching- stainless steel pointers, enamel filling, grinding, edge processing

Artistic metal etching , pickling brass - brass plate 3 mm, "Repentance letters"

Brass pickling- decorative element of the hanger, antique finish

Artistic metal etching , pickling brass - brass plate 5 mm, "Bag of happiness"

Artistic metal etching , pickling brass

Artistic metal etching , pickling brass - panels for interior decoration

Artistic METAL ETCHING - cost

The cost of manufacturing a product by technology galvanic etching or chemical etching of metal depends on the following parameters:

product material
size and geometry of the product
availability of a sketch or drawing of the product
the complexity of the drawing and the depth of the drawing
necessary finishing
method of fastening the product
special wishes of the customer to the product

average cost metal etching for a product of medium complexity is 50-60 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m. m products.

Order METAL ETCHING you can use e-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or phone numbers from the contacts section.

Order an art copper pickling and pickling brass with us, and you will get the best quality and author's performance.

teppo 07-01-2011 17:07

Good day to all. Who etched brass electrochemically, tell me how it is, is it worth it? I want to decorate the brass guard with etched patterns.

Ashedow 07-01-2011 17:13

Etched in saline solution. It is quite well etched, I did not notice any special features.

andr...sergey 07-01-2011 17:28

quote: Etched in saline solution. It is quite well etched, I did not notice any special features.

I join.

Nestor74 07-01-2011 17:33

I poisoned in HJ, like naman was poisoned, but I didn’t like the result

beard-fish 07-01-2011 18:25

etched in hzh ... at a deep 0.5 \ 1 mm-hzh crawls UNDER the drawing with paint ... and it is etched with cavities - the background is not uniform, but if you do everything in the etched (with the same copper) - it’s quite the result ...

Avante 07-01-2011 19:11

In childhood, coins were ground off, then wax / paraffin was applied, a drawing was scratched with a needle and filled with ordinary iodine from a pharmacy. The black pattern on the brass remained

teppo 07-01-2011 20:20

Soooo clear, thanks for the replies. So boom in a salt solution, just like steel.

anvar 08-01-2011 03:00

So boom in a salt solution, just like steel.

Don't forget to post the result.

teppo 10-01-2011 15:08

Eeeeh, it won't be soon. After the change of residence and work, there is little time for knives, and most importantly, he did not equip a place for issho's creativity.

Penzyak 58 10-01-2011 19:52

I also once tried to poison this method. The result was not very happy. Etched to tenths of a millimeter and that's it. But I think it was the strength of the current. The amps were not enough. But the drawing is beautiful, beautiful, comes out

nilex 10-01-2011 20:05

Not amperes At direct current, some brass alloys are passivated by electrolysis products (it can be seen from the current-perceptibly drops) - either mechanically or perverted with alternating-pulse current.

teppo 10-01-2011 23:38

quote: The result was not very happy.

quote: either mechanically or perverted with alternating-pulse current.

There you go, damn it! Just decided on the method, like those on. The heart senses that preliminary experimental work cannot be avoided.

Penzyak 58 11-01-2011 10:05

to nilex:
When etched, a pink-red oxide appeared. Campaign she blocked the further process. Next time I'll try to mechanically remove it and poison it again. By the way, I tried a charger from a laptop. The quick cutter hawala so that it becomes scary that he can cope with the task.

nilex 11-01-2011 22:24

quote: Originally posted by teppo:

There you go, damn it! Just decided on the method, like those on.

Try it for sure! The process is fascinating and probably the most accessible - table salt (it turns out quite an "adult" electrolyte) a power source, better with short circuit protection, a piece of stainless steel / graphite for electrodes and everyone has dishes.
Well, a tester, if you really want reproducible experiments - voltage, current density, etc.
And to walk through the details with a brush, or to experiment with alternating current is a simple matter.

barm 11-01-2011 22:32

quote: Originally posted by Penzyak 58:

I tried my laptop charger.

He's impulsive... 0_O
Fuck them to poison that ...

Penzyak 58 12-01-2011 09:20

That Barm:
To be honest, I don’t know shit about electricity. Previously, when pickling, I used a 12-volt power supply. Was pleased with the results. And as I tested the charger for the laptop, I was shocked - metal hawala is many times better. On the 16th I will be at home, I will write the parameters of the charger (maybe it is some kind of cleverly twisted)

barm 12-01-2011 10:47

No ... I'm not suffering, I'm persecuting a car battery charger.

teppo 12-01-2011 11:42

quote: Try it for sure! The process is fascinating and probably the most accessible - table salt (it turns out quite an "adult" electrolyte) a power source, better with short circuit protection, a piece of stainless steel / graphite for electrodes and everyone has dishes.

You didn’t understand, I have pickling experience, but with steel, but I don’t have experience with brass. I wanted to know in what way there are fewer problems when pickling brass, because. In addition to personal belongings for electro-etching, I have both ferric chloride and nitric acid.

quote: No ... I'm not suffering, I'm persecuting a car battery charger.

I, there was a case, poisoned in the country with a car battery.

Chemical solutions for pickling iron and steel

The simplest effective pickling solutions for iron and steel parts are dilute inorganic acids, especially 20% sulfuric acid, in which pickling is carried out at 45-50 ° C, or 20-25% hydrochloric acid, in which parts are pickled at room temperature. For etching, 10-15% phosphoric acid is also used, heated to 60-70°C. Parts are etched in it, which will then be varnished or their surface will be left without further processing. If a galvanized surface coating is provided after pickling, then this bath is unsuitable.

Chemical etching of non-ferrous metal surfaces

Etching copper and brass

On brass, the solution forms a light yellow coating, on copper - light pink. The solution contains:

Nitric acid concentrated 250 ml;
- Hydrochloric acid concentrated 150 ml;
- Ethyl alcohol denatured 100 ml;
- Water 500 ml.

Parts are poisoned by briefly immersing them in a bath with a solution, after which they are removed and immediately washed with water.

Matt etched copper

After etching on copper, a rough (to matte) surface will be obtained. Bath composition:

Nitric acid 40% 600 g;
- Sulfuric acid concentrated 400 g;
- Sodium chloride 3 g;
- Zinc sulfate 2 g.

Brilliant etching of copper and its alloys

Sulfuric acid concentrated 500 ml;
- Nitric acid concentrated 500 ml;
- Hydrochloric acid concentrated 10 ml;
- Soot 5 g.

The operating temperature of the bath is 18-20°C. Fat-free parts are immersed in a bath with a solution for 10-30 seconds, after which they are removed, washed with water and dried.

Pickling solution for aluminum and its alloys

The aqueous solution contains:

Sodium fluoride 40 g/l;
- Caustic soda 50 g/l.

The operating temperature of the bath is 70-80°C, the processing time is about 1 minute.

Another aqueous solution contains

Chromium oxide 30 g/l;
- Sulfuric acid concentrated 150 g/l;
- The working temperature of the bath is 70°C, the processing time is 1-1.5 minutes;

The simplest way of decorative painting of steel products

Electrochemical method can be used to paint steel products in any color. If the paint layer is varnished, it will reliably protect the product from corrosion. The composition of the solution in which steel products are painted includes the following components:

Copper vitriol 60 g;
- Refined sugar 90 g;
- Caustic soda 45 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Copper sulfate is dissolved in 200-300 ml of distilled water, then sugar is added to the resulting solution. Separately, caustic soda is dissolved in 250 ml of water and a solution of copper sulphate with sugar is added to it in small portions (with stirring). After mixing these two solutions, add distilled water to 1 liter. The part is cleaned, polished and degreased in a solution used in nickel plating, and then thoroughly washed in warm water. An additional electrode is made from red copper (preferably grades M0, M1). The part and the electrode are connected to a battery from a pocket flashlight (or other 4-6 V DC source), and the copper electrode must be connected to the plus of the battery, and the part to the minus. The copper electrode is first lowered into the solution, and then the part. After 5-10 seconds, the battery is disconnected, and staining continues without electric current. Being in the solution from 2 to 25 minutes, the part is painted in the following colors (in the order of their appearance): brown, violet, blue, blue, light green, yellow, orange, red-purple, greenish-blue, green, rose-red . The item can be taken out of the solution (checking the color) and lowered into the solution again - the process will proceed normally. When holding the part in the solution for more than 25-30 minutes, the process is cyclically repeated many times.

As the electrolyte evaporates, distilled water is added to the bath, since an increase in the electrolyte concentration worsens the quality of the color. To obtain more contrasting colors, 20 g of sodium carbonate (anhydrous soda) must be added to the finished electrolyte. If the coloring turned out to be unsuccessful, the film can be easily removed by wiping the part with ammonia. The painted parts are washed with water, dried and coated with a colorless varnish.

A simple way to decoratively finish an aluminum surface with a mother-of-pearl effect

The aluminum surface is cleaned with a metal brush, making small strokes in different directions (creating a certain pattern). Chips and dirt are removed from the surface with a clean rag. A clean aluminum surface is covered with an even layer of 10% sodium hydroxide solution (working temperature of the solution is 90-100°C). After the solution dries, a beautiful film with a pearly sheen forms on the aluminum surface. For better preservation, the film is covered with a colorless varnish. A more beautiful film is obtained if, before applying a solution of caustic soda, the product or part is heated to 80-90 ° C.

Chemical way of clarification of products and details from silumin (restoration)

Products and parts made of silumin (an alloy of aluminum with silicon) are quickly covered with an oxide film of dark tones. However, they can be shiny for a long time if they are lightened. Products or parts are cleaned and, if necessary, polished, then degreased, washed and immersed for 10-20 minutes in the following solution:

Chromic anhydride 100 g;
- Sulfuric acid concentrated 10 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

The working temperature of the solution is 18-20°C.

After clarification, the products and parts are washed and dried, and so that the surfaces of products and parts do not oxidize for a long time, they are covered with a colorless varnish.

What you need to know about polishing steel and non-ferrous metals

Polishing is used to improve the cleanliness of the surface of parts, devices, to eliminate traces of previous processing on them (strokes, scratches, small dents and the smallest irregularities). There are two types of polishing - preliminary and final. Pre-polishing is used to mechanically remove surface irregularities with loose abrasives (in a free state) or grains fixed on the working surface of the polishing wheel. The final polishing is carried out with fine grinding powders or soft elastic wheels coated with fine polishing pastes. The finest surface finish is achieved by rubbing a piece of felt or woolen cloth lubricated with a special metal polishing paste. After polishing, the surface acquires a mirror finish.

Lime paste is used for polishing nickel, brass, aluminum and other metals, its composition (in%) is as follows:

Vienna lime 71.8;
- Ceresin 1.5;
- Stearic acid 2.3;
- Solidol T 1.5;
- Turpentine 2.2;

The composition of the paste (in%) for polishing steel and other metals:

Paraffin 20;
- Stearin 10;
- Technical fat 3;
- Micropowder M50 67;

Note

Waxy and liquid materials are mixed and heated in a water bath (or over low heat). Then the dry ingredients are mixed into the hot mass.

GOI pastes are designed for polishing steel and other metals and are chromium oxide mixed with waxy substances. Pastes are produced in three grades: coarse, medium and fine. In the absence of chromium paste, oil paint chromium oxide diluted with kerosene can be successfully applied. Crocus paste (iron oxide) is sold in stores ready-made (in dentures, it is used under the name "paste for gold"). Crocus paste is used for polishing brass, bronze, silver and other metals. Powder "Shine", diluted with machine oil, is used for fine polishing of metals.

Chemical polishing of metals

Metals can be polished chemically, i.e. by simply immersing the part or object in a bath of polishing solution without the use of electric current. For this purpose, you can use porcelain glasses or trays. The polishing solution consists of the following substances:

Phosphoric acid concentrated 350 ml;
- Nitric acid concentrated 50 ml;
- Sulfuric acid concentrated 100 ml;
- Sulphate or nitrate copper 0.5 g.

The operating temperature of the bath is 100-110°C. Polishing time from 0.5 to 4 min. When polishing, suffocating fumes are released, so the bath should be in a fume hood or outdoors.
This solution polishes aluminum and its alloys well. It is also suitable for polishing other metals, but the operating conditions (polishing time, temperature) must be different.

CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF METALS

Chemical nickel plating of steel, copper, brass and bronze products
Parts made of steel and copper alloys can be electroplated with nickel. Such a coating not only protects parts well from corrosion and gives them a beautiful appearance, but also has increased wear resistance. The advantage of chemical nickel plating is also that nickel is evenly deposited on all, including internal, surfaces of parts.
The part to be nickel-plated must be properly prepared: sanded, polished and degreased. Steel parts are degreased in a solution containing 20-30 g of caustic potassium (or caustic soda), 25-50 g of soda ash and 5-10 g of liquid glass (silicate glue) per 1 liter of water; copper - in a solution containing (for the same amount of water) 100 g of trisodium phosphate and 10-20 g of liquid glass. Before nickel plating, copper parts must be held on the iron for 0.5-1 min. It should also be borne in mind that alloys containing more than 1-2% lead or cadmium are not amenable to chemical nickel plating.

Degreasing of steel and copper parts at room temperature ends after 40-60 minutes, at a temperature of 75-85°C - after 20-30 minutes. Then the part is thoroughly washed in running water and immersed for 0.5-1 min in a 5% hydrochloric acid solution to remove the oxide film, after which it is washed again in water and immediately transferred to the nickel plating solution. In 1 liter of water heated to 60°C, dissolve 30 g of nickel chloride and 10 g of sodium acetate. Then the temperature is brought to 80 ° C, 15 g of sodium hypophosphate are added - and the solution is ready. A part is immersed in it, the temperature is raised to 90-92°C and maintained at this level until the end of the nickel plating process. At lower temperatures, the rate of the process slows down sharply, and when heated above 95°C, the solution may deteriorate.

The required amount (volume) of the solution depends on the area of the nickel-plated part. The ratio of this area (in square decimeters) to the volume of the solution (in liters) should be in the range of 2.5-3.5.
So, for example, at S/V=3 for 1 hour the thickness of the nickel layer will be 10 microns.

The chemicals used are not toxic, degreasing and nickel plating are not accompanied by the release of harmful gases.
Chemical copper plating of steel and cast iron parts

Quite easily, copper is chemically deposited on iron, steel and cast iron. The coverage is satisfactory.

To coat these metals, a solution is made up of the following substances:

Sulphate copper 8-50 g;
- Sulfuric acid concentrated 8-50 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Operating temperature 18-20°C. After thorough cleaning and degreasing, the parts are immersed for a few seconds in the solution. The parts coated with copper are removed from the solution, washed with water and dried.

Chemical chromium plating of metals

Parts made of steel, copper and brass are chemically chromium-plated in a solution containing:

Chromium fluoride 14 g;
- Sodium hypophosphate 7 g;
- Sodium citrate 7 g;
- Glacial acetic acid 10 ml;
- Caustic sodium (20% solution) 10 ml;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Operating temperature around 80°C. Cleaned and degreased parts are metallized within 3-8 hours. In case of chemical chromium plating of steel objects, it is recommended to chemically copper them first. Parts with a deposited chromium layer are washed in water and dried.

Chemical nickel plating of metals

The nickel plating solution consists of the following substances:

Nickel-ammonium sulphate 50 g;
- Ammonium chloride 40 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

A small amount of metallic zinc is added to the solution and continuously stirred.

Chemical coloring of pewter products in bronze color

Tin products are well painted in bronze color by a chemical method. Products are immersed in a solution or wiped with a cloth soaked in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Sulphate copper 25 g;
- ferrous sulfate ferrous 25 g;
- Water up to 500 ml.

Then the product is dried, brushed, wiped with a cloth and again immersed in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Acetic acid copper 100 g;
- Acetic acid 10% 400 ml.

After that, the product is dried. If desired, it can be polished and covered with a transparent varnish.

"Gilding" of brass

Brass and products from it in the air quickly fade and oxidize. To protect polished items from oxidation, brass parts are often coated with a special golden lacquer. A simpler and more affordable method is as follows: after thorough cleaning and polishing, the brass part is immersed in a 10-15% solution of some kind of alkali to remove fats from its surface. Then the part is washed in water and dipped in a weak (2-3%) solution of sulfuric or hydrochloric acid for 1-2 seconds. Good results are obtained if brass is immersed in a solution of sodium bisulfite, then washed in water and immersed in a solution of copper acetate, heated to 36-40 ° C.

Depending on the time during which the part is in solution, brass is painted from a light golden color to the color of pure gold and even to a reddish-violet hue. The color of the color is monitored by removing the part from the solution from time to time. After painting, the part is washed with water and dried in air. The color is permanent and does not change over time. Acetic acid copper is commercially available, but you can cook it yourself. To do this, dissolve 5 g of copper sulfate in 0.5 liters of water, then mix with a solution of lead acetate (pharmacy lead lotion or lead sugar).

The second solution is made up of 8 g of lead acetate and 0.5 l of water. When the solutions are mixed, lead sulphate precipitates, and copper acetate remains in the solution. This solution will serve as the working solution. The precipitate can be filtered off or left at the bottom of the vessel.

Coloring copper under gold

4 g of caustic soda and 4 g of milk sugar are dissolved in 100 g of water, boiled for 15 minutes, then, with constant stirring, 4 g of a solution of saturated copper sulfate are added in small doses. Well-cleaned copper products are immersed in the hot mixture. Depending on the duration of action, they acquire a different color - from gold, green to complete black.

Golden lacquer for brass (brass passivation)

When brass is passivated, a stable protective film is formed, similar to gilding. This film is not afraid of moisture, so anglers passivate brass spinners. The cleaned, polished and degreased part is dipped for 1 s into a solution prepared from 1 part of nitric and 1 part of sulfuric acid, and immediately transferred to a strong solution of potassium dichromate (chromic acid) for 10-15 minutes.

After that, the part is washed and dried.

Chemical staining of brass

The cleaned, degreased and washed part is immersed in one of the following solutions.

1st solution:

Hyposulfite 11 g;
- Lead sugar 39 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

2nd solution:

In 250 ml of boiling water dissolve 10 g of caustic soda and 10 g of milk sugar. Then, stirring continuously, add 10 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulphate to the solution.

Within 3-10 minutes, the part, which is in one of the solutions, turns golden, bluish, blue, purple and, finally, iridescent.

When the desired color is obtained, the part is taken out, dried and polished with a cloth.
Brass acquires a bluish-black color when the prepared part is immersed for 1-3 minutes in the following solution:

Ammonia (25% ammonia) 500 ml;
- Bicarbonate (or carbonate) copper 60 g;
- Brass (sawdust) 0.5 g.

After mixing the components, the solution is vigorously shaken 2-3 times, after which the part is immersed in it.
Brass turns brown when the part is immersed in one of the following solutions.

1st solution:

Hyposulfite 50 g;
- Copper vitriol 50 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

2nd solution:

Sodium sulfide 100 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

3rd solution:

Acetic lead 30 g;
- Hyposulfite 90 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

The temperature of the solution is 80-90°C.

To prepare the 3rd solution, you need to dissolve both substances separately in half the volume of water, then drain them together and heat to 80-90°C. After painting, the part is washed with warm water, dried and covered with a colorless varnish.

The easy way to silver

As a silvering composition, spent hyposulfite (fixer) is used, which is no longer suitable for fixing photographic films or photographic paper. The method is extremely simple. The copper part is cleaned to a shine, boiled in a soda solution and washed thoroughly with water. Then immersed in used hyposulfite. After a while, silver will settle on the part. After washing with water, the part is dried and polished with a cloth. The quality of silver plating and the adhesion strength of silver to copper depends on the concentration of silver in the hyposulfite solution.

Silver plating of metal parts in a hot way

This method can be used to silver any metal. It consists in the following: a cleanly processed part is immersed on a zinc tape in a boiling solution consisting of the following components:

Iron-cyanogen potassium 120 g;
- Potash 80;
- Silver chloride 7.5 g;
- Distilled water up to 1 liter.

The silvering process ends after the complete coverage of the surface of the part with silver. The part is then removed from the solution, washed and polished. It should be remembered that when the solution boils, harmful substances are released, so boiling should be done in the open air or under a hood.

Chemical silvering

1. Several sheets of "Unibrom" matte photographic paper are cut into pieces and dipped into a solution of fixing salt (salt is diluted in the volume of water indicated on the package).

The cleaned and degreased part is placed in this solution and rubbed with an emulsion layer of paper until a dense layer of silver forms on the surface of the part. After washing in warm water, the part is wiped with a dry cloth.

2. Add 1-2 ml of ammonia and 2-3 drops of formalin to 300 ml of spent fixer (remaining after printing photos) (the solution is stored and handled only in the dark).
The cleaned and degreased part is placed in the solution for 0.5-1.5 hours, then washed in warm water, dried and wiped with a soft cloth.

Silver Paste

Parts made of copper, bronze, brass, copper-plated iron can be silver plated with pastes.

1. Silvering paste is prepared as follows: 2 g of silver nitrate (lapis) is dissolved in 300 ml of distilled water or water obtained from ice of household refrigerators and a 10% solution of sodium chloride is added to the solution until precipitation stops. silver chloride precipitate. This precipitate is washed 5-6 times in running water. Separately, 20 g of hyposulfite and 2 g of ammonium chloride (ammonia) are dissolved in 100 ml of distilled water. Then silver chloride is added in small doses to the resulting solution until it stops dissolving. The resulting solution is filtered and mixed with finely ground chalk to the consistency of thick sour cream. The previously degreased part is rubbed with paste using cotton wool or gauze until a dense layer of silver forms on its surface, after which the part is washed with water and wiped with a dry rag.

2. The polished and degreased part is rubbed with a cloth or a piece of soft leather, on which a paste of the following composition is applied:

Silver chloride 6 g;
- Table salt 8 g;
- Acid potassium tartrate (tartar) 8 g.

The listed substances are ground in a mortar and stored in a dark container; before use, the mixture is diluted with distilled water until a liquid paste is obtained. When the part is covered with a layer of silver, it is washed in water and rubbed to a shine with a soft flannel.

3. Silvering paste is prepared as follows: pour 2 g of ammonia, 4 g of cream of tartar and 1 g of silver nitrate (lapis) into a vessel, add a little distilled water until a semi-liquid slurry is obtained. Then, with a cloth coated with paste, the polished and degreased part is rubbed to a silver sheen.

Chemical method of silvering non-metallic materials

Non-metallic parts, such as plastics, glass, ceramics, wood, etc., can also be metallized chemically. The solution given below for silvering non-metallic materials gives very good results, especially when metallizing glass (silvering mirror surfaces, vessels, bulbs of incandescent lamps, reflectors for projection equipment, etc.).

The composition of the bath for silvering includes the following substances

Composition A

Silver nitrate 12 g;
- Ammonium nitrate 18 g;

After complete dissolution of the substances, the solution is topped up with distilled water to 750 ml.

Composition B

Caustic soda (chemically pure) 19 g.;
- Distilled water 500 ml.

After complete dissolution of caustic soda, the solution is topped up with distilled water to 750 ml.

Composition B

Sucrose 12.5 g;
- Tartaric acid 1.5 g;
- ode distilled 125 ml;

The solution is boiled for 20 minutes, and then topped up with distilled water to 500 ml.

All solutions are stored separately in dark vessels with ground stoppers.

The solution for silvering is obtained by mixing compositions A and B, to which composition C is added immediately before silvering. The parts intended for silvering are thoroughly cleaned in a hot soda solution, rinsed with running water and immersed in a bath with a freshly prepared solution. The working temperature of the solution is 18-20°C. Silvering time - 10 min. The plating can be carried out two or three times in succession, but each time in a fresh solution. Silver-plated parts are dried at a temperature of 50°C for 1 hour, and at a temperature of 18-20°C - for 24 hours. From glass, porcelain or ceramics, the silver layer can be easily removed with nitric acid.

Coloring silver items purple chemically

Silver or silver-plated objects turn purple in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Sodium sulfate anhydrous 12.5 g;
- Sodium carbonate 5 g;
- Water 500 ml.

The solution is heated to 80°C and the object is immersed in it for a few seconds. The item is then allowed to dry. The surface of the object can be coated with a transparent varnish.

Chemical solution for dyeing silver items black
Silver or silver-plated objects turn black after boiling them in a solution of sodium sulphate (100 g per 500 ml of water). After boiling in this solution, the objects are dried and covered with a transparent varnish.

Hot gilding of metal products

In a glass vessel, 20 g of nitric acid and 20 g of hydrochloric acid are mixed. 1 g of gold is dissolved in this mixture. When gold dissolves, 1 g of antimony chloride and 1 g of pure tin are added to the solution. The vessel with the solution is placed in hot water and boiled until the tin dissolves, after which 20 g of a saturated solution of boric acid are added. Products intended for gilding are cleaned, polished and boiled in a solution of caustic potassium or sodium hydroxide. The solution is applied to the product with a brush; the dried product is heated on the flame of an alcohol lamp or on a charcoal fire. After heating, a good gilding is obtained, which does not require polishing. Store the solution in a glass vessel with a ground stopper in a dark place.

Gold plating without an external current source Contact gilding is used to obtain very dense and uniform coatings, characterized by high adhesive strength, and if a large coating thickness is not required. Electrolysis by this method does not need an external current source. The potential difference necessary for the deposition of gold is created by a galvanic cell, in which the coated item serves as the cathode, immersed in the gilding electrolyte, and the anode is a zinc plate, which is in a concentrated sodium chloride solution and connected to the item with a wire, as shown in Fig. 1. For electrolysis, any heated gilding electrolyte from those indicated in the table can be used.

Gilding by immersion is based on the creation of a potential difference at the boundary of the surface of the coated metal and the electrolyte layer adjacent to it. Good quality coatings are formed only on brass or brass-plated parts. Therefore, details from other metals are preliminarily brassed (minimum layer thickness 1-2 microns). The gilding process automatically stops when a layer of gold with a thickness of about 0.1 microns is obtained, but the coating is dense, glossy and has good adhesion to the surface of the parts.

Compositions of solutions and modes of operation during gilding by immersion

Removal of poor quality gold plating

To remove poor-quality coatings, gilded silver items are suspended as anodes in a 5% hydrochloric acid solution at a temperature of 18-20°C. Iron or lead plates serve as cathodes. Anode current density 0.1 - 1 A / dm?. Copper pendants. In addition, the gold coating can be removed in the "royal vodka". "Aqua regia" is a mixture of acids (50% nitric acid mixed in 50% hydrochloric acid). The mixture is used for etching copper, brass, iron, steel, zinc, etc. This solution acts on metals almost instantly; corrosion and dirt disappear, and the surface of the metal becomes shiny or, more often, matte. Jewelers use this mixture to determine pure gold.

Note

When using active acids, safety rules must be strictly observed. It should be remembered that when diluting an acid with water (for example, sulfuric acid), you need to pour the acid into the water, and not vice versa, otherwise the acid will splash, which can lead to severe burns.

Simple ways to extract silver from spent hyposulfite (fixer)
Only a part of the silver contained in the photosensitive layer of the photographic material is spent on the construction of a photographic image. Most of the silver goes into the fixer and developer and can be isolated and collected.

1st way.

Allows you to highlight pure silver. It consists in the following: iron shavings or small iron nails, well washed from fat with gasoline, are poured into a vessel with an exhausted fixer. The solution is shaken from time to time. After 7-10 days, the solution is drained and the nails are dried in air. The silver deposited on the nails crumbles as a black powder, which can then be smelted into ingots.

2nd way.

The depleted fixer and an equal volume of spent metholhydroquinone developer are poured into one vessel. A 30% sodium hydroxide solution is added to the resulting mixture at the rate of 100 ml for each liter of used fixer. Silver is deposited in the form of the finest pure silver powder. The process takes at least 48 hours.
The silver precipitate formed during this time is filtered off and dried. The remaining aqueous solution of sodium thiosulfate, i. fixer, can be reused in work.

3rd way.

A polished sheet of brass is placed in the spent fixer, which is in a glass vessel. After 48 hours, almost all of the metallic silver from the depleted solution will settle on it. After precipitation, the sheet is washed well with water and dried. Then a layer of silver is carefully scraped off its surface.

4th way.
To 1 liter of the used fixing solution add 5-6 g of sodium hydrosulfite and 5-6 g of anhydrous soda. After 19-20 hours, metallic silver formed in the form of a black fine powder is filtered, and the silver-free fixing solution is acidified with sodium bisulfite and reused for work.

5th way.
To do this, prepare a 20% solution of sodium sulfate and pour it into the spent fixer at the rate of 20 ml of the solution for each liter of fixer. After thoroughly mixing the solution, it is allowed to settle for a day. The solution is then decanted from the precipitate, and the precipitate is dried on paper. The precipitate is silver sulfide. Precipitation is carried out in the open air or with enhanced ventilation, to reduce the release of hydrogen sulfide, the spent fixing solution is first alkalized.

PAINTING OF METALS

Coating of metal with varnish "moiré"
Before coating with "moire" varnish, the surface of the metal part is degreased by heating in an oven (oven) for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 80-100 ° C, then primed with heat-resistant enamel, puttied with varnish putty and dried. When the part dries well, it is treated with pumice stone with water and sandpaper, wiped dry, covered with an even layer of moire varnish with a spray gun and placed for 10-15 minutes in an oven with a temperature of about 80 ° C.

The pattern of the pattern depends on the thickness of the coating and the duration of the heating of the part. When a pattern is formed on the part, it is taken out of the oven for a short time for partial cooling, and then placed back in the oven for the final drying of the varnish. At a temperature of 120-150°C, the varnish dries completely within 30-40 minutes, and at a lower temperature - within 2-3 hours.
To protect the painted surface from dusting, it is covered with celluloid varnish: celluloid is dissolved in acetone to the consistency of liquid oil varnish and applied to the surface in an even layer with a swab. After the acetone dries, a strong protective film remains on the surface.

A resistant coating is obtained if BF-2 glue is added to the aluminum paint. BF-2 glue is dissolved in alcohol until enamel is thick, then dry aluminum powder is poured into the resulting solution and mixed thoroughly, after which alcohol is added again until normal viscosity is obtained.

The paint prepared in this way fits well when painted with a brush or with a spray gun, it does not crumble and retains its appearance for a long time.

Painting of steel products under aluminum

To give steel products a beautiful look and protect them from corrosion, the metal is often coated with aluminum paint - varnish with aluminum powder. To do this, 15 g of the powder is poured into a colorless nitrolac diluted with acetone (110 g).
In the same proportion, the paint can be diluted not in nitro-lacquer, but in celluloid glue - acetone, in which 5-10 g of x-ray film, cleaned of emulsion, is dissolved.
The surface of the product is pre-cleaned thoroughly and then a thin layer of paint is applied using a spray gun.
A resistant coating is obtained if BF-2 glue is added to the aluminum paint. BF-2 glue is dissolved in alcohol until enamel is thick, then dry aluminum powder is poured into the resulting solution and mixed thoroughly, after which alcohol is added again until normal viscosity is obtained. The paint prepared in this way fits well when painted with a brush or with a spray gun, it does not crumble and retains its appearance for a long time.

What you need to know about paint incompatibility and the perception of paint color

All paint components are chemicals. Metals (copper, zinc, aluminum), which are part of paints in the form of powder, affect the corrosion of the painted metal surface and the binder. Metal oxides and salts affect the binder, accelerating film formation. Dissimilar types of binder cannot be combined with each other, and some oil paints obtained on the same binder, but based on different pigments, cannot be mixed.

Pigment incompatibility. When mixing pigments, it is very important to take into account the nature of their interaction. In case of incompatibility of pigments, their destruction and loss of anti-corrosion properties occur.
When mixing paints with incompatible pigments, their color is lost.

Binder incompatibility. Oil paints can only be mixed with oil paints (on a homogeneous basis), glyptal paints with glyptal paints, pentaphthalic paints with pentaphthalic paints, epoxy paints with epoxy paints, bituminous varnishes with asphalt and coal tar varnishes, etc. However, all thick oil paints can be diluted with drying oils and varnishes made on the basis of only light natural and artificial resins, excluding asphalt and bituminous resins.
Incompatibility of paint with surface material. All primers without exception can be applied to the steel surface: oil, phosphating, protective, glyptal, phenol-formaldehyde, on vinyl chloride copolymers, ethinol, acrylic, etc.

METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for the controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the action of specially selected chemical reagents.

For artistic metal etching When a part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

chemical etching of metal- "liquid" etching
electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
ion-plasma - "dry" etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING we use the most used technologies: chemical etching of metal and galvanic etching.

METAL etching - features

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Etching copper is widely used by us for processing copper clichés, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Metal chemical etching called a method of reproducing various patterns, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemical means. on the surface of metal objects.

galvanic etching

Galvanic etching of metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over metal chemical etching and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself pickling electroplating way is much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical pickling technology both in terms of time and volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which, when galvanic etching gases harmful to health are not formed.

Pre-treatment of the object is also applied when galvanic etching.

METAL etching - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- sophisticated technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is only for professionals.

Our company has a proven track record galvanic etching and chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all the necessary equipment to carry out METAL ETCHING and in the case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We apply technology metal etching for copper pickling and pickling brass .

By using metal etching technologies we do:

applying a texture or relief pattern in the artistic processing of materials -
production of premium and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plates
production of metal plates: facade plates and office plates
production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
production of logos, trademarks, corporate style items
production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
production of metal objects for wall cladding, entrance groups, fireplaces, portals, gratings
removal of the surface layer of contaminants, oxides, grease, etc., for example, scale from metal blanks
chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer disturbed during the previous mechanical treatment
etc.