Admiral Nelson's ship Victory (DeAgostini). Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" (DeAgostini) Homemade frame cannon ports

Not so long ago, we found on the popular Model Ship World forum dedicated to ship modeling, an interestingoverview builds of the battleship HMS Victory in 1:84 scale, published by a participant under the nickname Canoe21. Since not everyone can boast of good knowledge of English, but many may be interested in this step-by-step review, we decided to publish the translation of this review on our blog. All interested and just curious, welcome on board.

Greetings to all colleagues and participants of this forum, my name is Lorenz and I am published under the nickname Canoe21

My precious wife, Bernadette, gave me a magnificent 1:84 scale model of the battleship HMS Victory built in 1765 for Christmas. The manufacturer of the whale is Artesania Latina. True, Bernadette immediately asked me to start construction no earlier than December 25th. Imagine my feelings, given that she gave me the set at the end of October. It was naive on her part.

After discovering that I had a scale model in front of me with a lot of details, I couldn't wait to start building. At first, I spent a lot of time studying the assembly instructions in detail. Then I began to search the Web for the history of the ship, as well as everything connected with it. While searching, I stumbled upon the Model Ship World (MSW) forum and spent many hours of fun reading reviews on HMS Victory.

I soon signed up for a WSW account and continued to read build reviews of different sailboats, marveling at the sheer amount of work and the different techniques that WSW members describe along the way.

During the autumn-winter, I published more than once in one or the other branch, and after numerous incitement from the participants, I decided to start my own review of the building. I confess it was a very interesting experience. Maybe even as interesting as the construction of HMS Victory itself.

I must make a reservation right away that in my work I was guided not so much by instructions as by data obtained in the course of my historical studies. Due to lack of experience, I was not always able to achieve the desired result, but it seems to me that my homemade parts fit the ship much better than those that were part of the kit.

The first item to replace was the binnacle. The one that was in the set categorically did not suit me, as it was too miniature for such a large-scale vessel. Plus, it looked a bit simplistic. I know my binnacle is far from perfect, but I think it's more suited to a large ship like HMS Victory. I confess that already after finishing work on it, I had to lower the navigation tools a bit, because they were not visible in the windows.

Here it is in the making

And here it is ready

So, despite Bernadette's requests, I started work on the ship back in November. In addition to working on the binnacle and skylight, I assembled and fixed the keel frame, and also made a working stand for the hull, upholstering it at the points of contact with silicone tape.

I think not the first time is enough.

Good luck! Lorenz.

Overview of the construction of the model battleship HMS Victory. Part 1.

Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" magazine with parts to assemble the legendary ship. publishing house DeAgostini(DeAgostini). Build your own model of His Majesty's ship Victory. This is the flagship of Admiral Nelson, the legendary participant in the historic naval battle - the Battle of Trafalgar.

Every issue Collections Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" includes a set of high quality parts to build a model of this beautiful sailboat. You'll get everything you need, including sails, flags, cannons, and even metal figurines depicting Admiral Nelson and the sailors from the ship's crew. Every time you can use the detailed step-by-step assembly instructions, which describes each stage of work. In addition, on the pages of the magazine you will find interesting information about the great era of sailing ships. Learn more about the great naval commanders and outstanding navigators, famous ships and fierce battles!

Ship model

In the magazine you will find everything you need to create a unique models of Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" High Quality!

Ship modeling allows you to acquire a wide range of skills and abilities, as well as learn a number of special techniques for the manufacture of sails and gear, their coloring and finishing. Even if you haven't had model making experience before today, you can build your own Victory ship by moving from one stage of work to another and gaining mastery along the way.

You will start with the details received with the first issue Victory magazine, start building the bow of the ship and assemble the first cannon, which was part of the weapons that terrified the enemy. Over the next weeks, you will assemble the hull, add the rest of the guns, and install deck equipment and quarters for the admiral and his officers. Then you can add crew figures - including Captain Hardy and Nelson himself. Finally, fit the masts, hang up the sails and set up the rigging.

The size of the Victory ship model

Journal

Discover the mysteries of the Victory, a famous British battleship that fought in the Battle of Trafalgar and is now housed in the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard in southern England.

Sections of the magazine Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory":

– Find out how Admiral Nelson became a national hero, how the life and career of the great naval commander developed, and what is the significance of his outstanding victories.
- This section of the Victory magazine allows you to get an idea about the design of Spanish, British, French warships, their armament, and the features of the construction of wooden sailboats. It also outlines the basics of naval tactics and ways to control ships.
– Each magazine has a well-illustrated spread, where you will find descriptions of models of famous ships. A detailed story about the creation of these masterpieces will allow you to understand and appreciate the work of artists and modellers.
– This section will allow you to correctly build the Victory model, detail by detail. it explains all the steps involved in the various stages of assembly, as well as provides useful tips that will make the assembly of the model a fun process.

Exit Schedule

No. 1 - Parts for assembly, DVD disc with all stages of assembling the model - 01/26/2012
No. 2 - Parts for assembly - 02/16/2011
#3 - Assembly Parts

How many issues

A total of 120 issues are planned.

For a long time I wanted to collect something more substantial and bigger, and knowing that my beloved husband would not refuse me a birthday present of my choice, of course, I asked for a set of a ship! Since then, I've spent days on the Internet looking for "big, beautiful and complex." It is quite natural that my eyes burned and my hands itched at the sight of the models Wasa, Soleil Royal, Prins Willem, La Superbe and where without Sovereign of the Seas. In general - the lip is not a fool.

I bypassed HMS Victory and Bounty - they seemed to me not very interesting, since they are collected by many and often. But fate, as usual, did not particularly listen to my own opinion - after poking into a couple of model stores, I still could not leave in one of them a large (and for me, like in cartoons - shining) box with HMS Victory. Having decided that “well, let many people collect it, but it is big and beautiful, and this is exactly what I wanted!”.

In general, our family budget has slightly decreased, but I became the owner of a wonderful set from Mantua - HMS Victory. And, if it were not for the seller with a stern face and the weight of the box, I would jump with this box in an embrace and sing with happiness :).

Of course, having come home, everything was pulled out of the box, laid out and carefully studied. I chose the attic as a workplace (which is very convenient - you can saw, and sharpen, and sand, and paint, and at the same time not bother anyone). By the way, I should note that even before, when I worked in the room, my husband did not resent the smell of paint or wood dust, but quite the opposite - he really likes my passion for ships, and we often sit together over the instructions, discussing what and how to collect. In general, after a thorough inspection of the box, I came to my husband with an impressive list of tools that were “very good!” needed.

Finally having everything I needed, I got to work.

What I really like at the very beginning is the assembly of the frame. Suddenly, almost a ship is obtained from nothing. Imagination immediately begins to describe the "skeleton" of the ship with wood, decks, guns and rigging.

And I want to hurry, so quickly. But I have to constantly stop myself, because from the very kindergarten a proverb was hammered into my head - “Hurry up - you make people laugh”, since then I try to first “measure seven times” and only “cut off once”.
After trying on the frames, making sure that each of them is exactly where it should be, I glued them. While the glue was drying, I measured and cut the lintels to which the guns would later be attached.

Jumpers on the hull of HMS Victory, where the false guns will be attached.

According to the instructions, after the frame is assembled, the decks should be installed. I know that many prefer to first sheathe the hull with a rough skin and only then install the decks. Maybe next time I will do just that (because it is very inconvenient to mask the gaps between the deck and the skin later, if the deck was glued and laid up to the skin). On the other hand, it was very convenient for me to make markings and lay the deck not on the ship, but on the table.

I decided not to fight over the age-old question "how to fill the seams", but just before the sticker, one edge (and the joint, respectively) was blackened with a marker. Here is the result.

Blackening of joints on the deck.

When all the decks fell into their rightful place, the first hull plating began.

After a not-so-pleasant experience with rack bending on previous ships, I finally got this wonderful tool from Amati (how does it sound, huh? - “Amati rack bending tool” :)). I have to say that he helped me a lot.

And where can we go without a nailer (again, after the not very pleasant experience of hammering in carnations with small pliers and a hammer). True, this nailer broke quite often and at the most inopportune moments.

On the advice from the site, after the hull was sheathed, I decided to close the gaps with PVA glue and sawdust. The spectacle, I must say, is pathetic ...

The hull of HMS Victory during puttying.

Oh, what a pity that then I didn’t know what a wood filler was yet ... But nothing, and it worked that way too.

And now the first skin is ready - the cracks are sealed and everything is carefully sanded.

I know that many people prefer not to use studs on finished skins. But the holes left after them even seem pretty to me, and working with them (with carnations, that is) is much more convenient and faster.

The use of studs on the finishing sheathing.

So I proceeded to the finishing sheathing with the same nailer and “tool from Amati”.

Carnation marks in the bow of HMS Victory.

A little patience and diligence, and now the finishing sheathing is coming to an end.

Completion of the finishing plating of HMS Victory.

Finally, the entire hull is covered and sanded. Glued "blank" under the stern. And all this together is very pleasing to the eye. At least mine :).

The kit included a cardboard template for cannon ports, quite convenient for marking, after all, there are 52 ports on each side (now I specially counted), plus a hatch, plus two more ports at the stern. Total - 108 rectangular holes need to be cut!

Application of a template for cannon ports.

In the instructions in the picture, everything is nowhere simpler - I drilled four holes in each corner and carefully cut it out with a knife. Just spit, - I decided and started ... Lord, if I knew what I had to do now! These unfortunate four holes, drilled in every corner of the port, did not bring any help. I had to drill more holes - eight, or even more. Then cut it with a knife, which was also a problem - a double layer of wood, and even with a layer of glue, cutting it is not trivial, and even cutting a square in it ... In general, the result in the end does not shine with beauty. The mood is spoiled, the hands are blisters, the clothes are in sawdust and shavings. I was offended by everyone, went to swim and sleep. The morning is wiser than the evening.

Returning with a fresh head to my long-suffering ship, I realized that there was still something I had not thought through. It was necessary to paint the jumpers for attaching the guns black in advance. Well, it doesn’t matter, better late than never (well, I’ve already begun to write poetry).

As a result, my ports are cut out, and the inserts are painted in half with grief.

I painted the frames of the ports red in advance (inside), it's time to insert and glue them. Here I ran into another "ambush" - the frames are crooked, ribbed and in general ... Well, where does this fit ?!

Calm down, calm down. All is not yet lost. Frames are still attached. Then they are smeared (with great care) and skinned. And, in the end, everything is not so bad as it seemed at the beginning. You can continue with a calm soul and a clear conscience.

Finished cannon ports for HMS Victory.

To be honest, I did not want to cover the bottom with copper (and it was not included in the kit). Covering the body with black paint, striving for similarity with the original - too (well, it's a pity for me to paint a noble tree, it's a pity!). I settled on what was suggested in the instructions - to make yellow stripes. It’s scary… I’ve never painted wooden ships before. The paint is matched, the brush is ready. Well, thank you, let's get started.

Like many other modellers, in particular Sergey Kavtorov (), whose review I used during the assembly of HMS Victory, I have an assistant assistant (and Sergey had a son in his assistants, as I understand it). I must say that the slats are an excellent toy, it is very comfortable to lie on the drawings, and apart from the box from under the ship, there is no better and more convenient “bed”. That's how it is.

Not without the help of a cat, I painted the top of the case and glued the “intermediate” rails. I decided to use the result in such a still life (And do not say that a ship cannot be used in a still life! Still life - in fine art - an image of inanimate objects (I looked at Wikipedia)). Honestly, I took this photo for a photo contest (photography is another hobby of mine).

Every time a stage in a build is completed, I'm faced with the problem of "What's next?". The instruction does not help me here very much - it is not always clear, nor is it always consistent. For many questions, I used the Internet more often than instructions and drawings. So after painting, I thought for a long time what to do next. Decided to tidy up the stern.

Forgive me, but since I am a woman (although not quite blonde), I very often do not know the names of certain parts of the ship. Here, too, I’m not entirely sure that that part with windows is called the stern (now I found in the dictionary of terms that this part is called the stern superstructure) ...

At the very beginning, I really wanted to make lighting in the windows, but since I am no electrician (dad, it’s true, an electrician, but I haven’t lived with dad for a long time), I had to be content with blue paint.

The side parts did not fit close to the back, so I had to make wooden inserts between them.

From the stern I moved to the bow (I would say “from the back to the front”, but you will laugh ;-)).

First, she covered the bow deck with slats (probably, she also has her own name). Then the time came, I don’t even know what to call it, doors (?) / decorations (?). Let's call this part beautifully - a false panel. False panel with doors. This false panel was already almost ready (a thin yellow sheet of wood with a ready-made extruded pattern), it remained only to glue the side parts onto the forms, and the middle part just between them. This tree was bent with difficulty (even a little steamed and with the help of a “tool from Amati”, as advised in the instructions). And it turned out not very neat - the black part of the picture cracked and had a completely unpresentable look. To correct my oversight, I had to paint the sides brown (I know, I know that all these parts are supposed to be blue, but somehow I don’t like it, sorry ...). I also painted the yellow parts of the picture. Golden. It seemed so solemn to me. On the false panel was installed its upper part (which was also painted brown and gold).

"False panel" HMS Victory.

After I installed the bow frames, bars (from the same yellow wood) and side parts (here I really wonder what these side parts are called). All these details, including the nose (and further from the nose - the entire keel), I painted brown. They are all made of plywood, and leaving all these layers on display is simply ugly.

As a result, my nose (er, that is, the ship) became more impressive and interesting.

While the paint was drying, I drilled holes in the future anchor beams (sorry if I made a mistake in the name). I had to drill manually, since a 1 mm drill does not hold in the chuck of my drill (and I haven’t bothered to buy a suitable cartridge yet, although I should). Fingers get tired, but the result pleases.

And so, the design of my nose (again, a typo, the nose of the ship, of course) was replenished with two new details. I also later painted the supporting corners brown, since they are also made of plywood.

By the way, I didn’t have enough insert frames for gun ports, either due to the “oversight” of the manufacturer, or because of my own absent-mindedness (although in the photo on the box all the frames are in place). I had to cut the top ones by hand. After I made the inner skin (from the deck side), I had to grind and glue the frames, glue them on each side, fill the inside with putty and, in the end, paint it red.

Homemade frame cannon ports.

Now about the bottom of the stern. In my opinion, it should be called a transom. Oh, and I suffered with her, that is, with him. No wonder they say that you should learn only from your mistakes. I, delighted with the ease of use of the placeholder tree, used it with a wide gesture. After first varnishing the bottom of the ship, I finally realized what a big stupid thing I had done. In my defense, I note that the slats are really not perfect and quite often there are quite large gaps even on a flat surface (which I got the hang of masking by dripping a drop of glue into them, I immediately wipe it off with a napkin so that the glue remains only inside the gap / hole, and then I just walk next to it with a sandpaper.Thus, the gap is filled with wooden dust of the same color and is not blown out from there, and, accordingly, there are no glue streaks).

In general, horrified by the appearance of my stern, that is, the transom (it’s good that I didn’t write “the view of my butt” :)), I sanded it properly (to remove the varnish) and covered it again (right on top of the old rails).

As far as possible, I will try to post the following parts of the review on the construction of HMS Victory Mantua. This, of course, if there are no fatal (and, I'm even afraid of the word, fatal) errors for the model on my part. Thanks for taking the time to read all of the above.

Before the Admiralty could authorize the construction of a new ship, its members had to know what it would look like. It was a common practice for shipbuilders of the time to submit a model of a future ship for approval. The models created for this purpose did not have masts and rigging. You can now build the HMS Victory as a complete warship that defended English honor during the Battle of Trafalham in 1805.

Description of the Victory ship set

Housing with double skinned from linden and excellent walnut, the deck is covered with tanganika slats. Coincidentally or not, but walnut slats for fine sheathing are given both light and dark. This allows you to create light stripes, which were painted with yellow ocher on the prototype, without resorting to coloring. To help with the assembly, all the wooden parts are already cut out. As expected, the velvets are made with thicker slats. The rudder blade, which is very rare in models, is a compound one, consisting of five separate vertical elements. This is truly amazing!

The cannons on the upper deck are mounted on walnut mounts and have trousers and a waist. Lanterns, handrails, railings and other parts made of brass, cast or walnut. About a hundred fine metal cannons and carronades"under bronze" polished to give them a natural appearance. Cannon ports open and close on their hinges. The set includes calves on salings, all mars platforms are sheathed.

In general, according to the spars, the model is made in some detail, like all Corel models. Provided stand, rigging threads of five diameters, flags. Drawings and instructions on 14 sheets include both full-size and scale diagrams. Since 2011, due to a change in technology, the printing on flags has been blurred.

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Finally having everything I needed, I got to work.

Jumpers on the hull of HMS Victory, where the false guns will be attached.

I decided not to fight over the age-old question "how to fill the seams", but just before the sticker, one edge (and the joint, respectively) was blackened with a marker. Here is the result.