Interchangeable tool holders for desktop lathe. MULTIFIX quick change tool post. How to buy MULTIFIX quick change tool post and cartridges

Moderator, please pin this article to the top, because many who are looking for or have already bought a desktop lathe can be helped by this material.

By the nature of my work, I have to deal with turning and milling of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. This is not to say that this is happening on an industrial scale. Rather, within the framework of an "experimental" laboratory, but this does not diminish the role of the working functionality of my lathe. Quite stringent requirements are imposed on the machine in terms of reliability, dimensions of the workpiece and the weight of the machine. The machine must have a chuck 80mm, distance between centers 300mm-350mm, weight no more than 45kg. Like many users of desktop screw-cutting lathes, I was faced with the choice of one or another model that can be found on our market.
The machines presented on the Russian market can be divided into several groups - domestic machines, foreign machines of the 30-40s (USA or Germany), obsolete machines from the countries of the socialist camp and machines from China. I forgot to add lathes from the German company Proxon. Exorbitant prices that have nothing to do with the machines themselves. These machines can be recommended to those who "need checkers, not go." Only my statements do not apply to drills from this company.
Domestic machine tools can be produced, both today and be new with a full working set, or "old", whose date of birth is the 50-70s of the last century. I will talk about modern small-sized domestic lathes a little lower, but about the "oldies" now. Usually, "oldies" are sold at a low price, but in general, gears, tailstocks, etc. may be missing in the kit. The frame may be worn out. Appearance is repulsive. Peeling paint, rusty surfaces. All this bears the stamp of wretchedness. In this case, the machines can be in working condition. Talking about what machines with a large margin of safety did then is empty talk. If you are tied to a specific case, then instead of buying and working, you will restore the machine and not the fact that you can make it as functional as a modern Chinese desktop lathe. You can work and do something on the machine, but, you see, it is more pleasant to work on a clean and tidy machine, and not on a rarity, which seemed to be dug up on the battlefields, while losing some of its details.
Next comes a group of machines, on average, 30-40s from the USA or Germany. In my opinion, such machines are of historical value. Their purchase may be due to the fact that you are more of a turner-collector and a lover of history related to machine tool building. Such machines can be either inoperative or in "full combat readiness". The price difference is also big. But still, let's face it - you can, of course, work on such machines, but morally they have long been outdated. If we draw more understandable analogies, then we can draw a parallel with passenger cars. Every day they try to drive modern models, and restored rarities stand at exhibitions or wait in garages for holiday trips. They (both machines and machines) have already worked out their own.
A group of machine tools from the countries of the socialist camp are machine tools from Czechoslovakia and Poland. Year of issue 60-80s of the last century. We can say that they are highly valued among a certain category of people who work on desktop screw-cutting lathes. But the same thing can be said about these machines that I have already written about ours, the years of production of which are the 60-70s of the last century. The machines are most often dismantled and the appearance leaves much to be desired. Although you can work for them. But, if the guitar gears are lost from the kit, then you are unlikely to be able to cut the thread with the desired pitch.
The most widely represented machines are from China. Sometimes sellers say that the components and the machines themselves are made in Taiwan. At the same time, the fundamental difference is only that on the world map these two countries have different names. Differences in design can only be cosmetic.
Firms that sell Chinese machine tools may be registered in Germany, the Czech Republic, Russia, Switzerland, etc. The machines will differ in color, as well as the layout of buttons and control levers. Their overall structure will be the same. Before I could make a conscious choice and gain a foothold in it, I had to work on various Chinese machines, a domestic machine, review and rework material from the Internet on desktop lathes. In the process of work, the requirements for the characteristics of the machine were formed and there was an elimination of models that I deliberately refused to purchase, seeing a discrepancy between my requirements and the performance characteristics of the machines.
I'll start with the notorious statements that people who are faced with choosing a desktop lathe can read on the Internet. "Chinese machines lack rigidity and ours, therefore, is better" is one of the generalized statements. In my opinion, this phrase is completely unreasoned. It can be crushed during processing on any machine with any weight. Much depends on the sharpening of the cutter, the workpiece material, cutting conditions, settings and adjustment of the machine itself. Therefore, you should not pay attention or take seriously this statement about the rigidity of the structure.
The second statement is related to the fact that the heavier the machine, the better. Better for what? If you need to be able to rearrange and remove the machine, then its weight is of greater importance to you. If the machine is heavy, this does not mean that it will clean the surface of the workpiece. It all depends on the person who works on the machine. In addition, if your machine is in an apartment, and not in a garage, then it is very desirable that the machine works quietly and does not cause tantrums in your wife or neighbors.

Starting to choose a machine, first of all, we must remember that THERE IS NO PERFECT MACHINE. The problems of a Chinese machine can be both a German one and a domestic one.
When a user tries to choose a domestic desktop lathe with an 80mm chuck, he is faced with "Universal" of various modifications, depending on the year of manufacture and manufacturer. Modifications may have different names, but the essence of this does not change. "Universal" is a desktop lathe of domestic production, which can be used for turning, threading, milling, jointing, sharpening, polishing, grinding, sawing with a jigsaw and drilling. Included are various devices that allow you to perform the above operations. If you buy a new "Universal", then the cost of a machine tool with equipment will be from 60,000 rubles. Used "Universals" of early modifications can be bought for 10,000-12,000 rubles. For me, these machines have several fundamental disadvantages that keep me from buying. The machines are quite bulky, their weight is from 60kg to 90kg. Most users cannot move this machine alone. In addition, the machines are quite noisy, because the gears are metal, not plastic. Many copies are broken due to disputes about what material the gears should be made of. Just do not confuse an industrial machine and a small-sized desktop machine, which operates in completely different cutting conditions and should provide a completely different noise level. To change the speed of rotation of the spindle, you need to throw the belt. Also, not all modifications allow you to cut threads, and those that allow you to cut threads can only cut metric. Most modifications have a small through hole in the spindle 15mm and a small distance between centers. As a result, the user may have a machine that is more expensive than the Chinese one, rather bulky, heavy and noisy. It can potentially perform many operations other than turning, but the workpieces will be shorter in length than when working on Chinese machines, which, in terms of the total length of the machine itself and the diameter of the lathe chuck, will be like the "Universal" and its clones.
Thus, the domestic desktop machine is no longer available. There are Chinese machines that have an 80mm chuck and a distance between centers of 300mm-400mm. If you start comparing by price, you can see a fairly large spread in prices for machines that are close clones of each other. Profi, Proma, STM, Caliber, JET, DIY, Corvette, etc. - different names for almost the same machines. Analyzing products in terms of price-quality-working capabilities, I settled on products with the DIY brand. The lowest price, same quality, or better quality and lower price than the competitor. In addition to the price, do not forget to compare the power of the motor. It may turn out that with close linear and weight data, the difference in power is quite noticeable. Those. 550W motor is more profitable than 350W motor. My choice fell on DIY 0714. This machine has the largest distance between centers among other DIY machines that have an 80mm chuck. Weight 0714 - 42 kg, which allows it to be carried by a person of average build. But this machine also has a detail that distinguishes it from others of the same kind. Distinguishes for the better. This part is the tailstock. The DIY tailstock is much more massive than other machines, which are its "brothers" in general design. The horizontal center position can be adjusted by screws. For its clones with the Profi, Proma, STM, Caliber, JET, Corvette brands, the horizontal position of the tailstock is adjusted by manually shifting after loosening the fasteners. But only a rough alignment can be done manually. If you need to move by 0.015mm, then manually the user will not be able to do this. In this case, you need fine adjustment screws. And DIY, unlike its other "brothers" with an 80mm cartridge, has such an adjustment. And this allows you to achieve turning parts clamped in the centers, without taper. The outer diameter of the quill is larger than that of other "brothers".

The thicker the quill, the higher the rigidity and less vibration during operation. When drilling, you can use a millimeter notch on the quills, but if you need a more accurate recess into the workpiece, you can use a dial with a division value of 0.025 mm.

The "brothers" only have a millimeter ruler on the quills. Initially, the tailstock is fixed with a side lever. But I changed it to fixing with a nut. I figured it would be tougher.
Now, after I talked about the most important difference between DIY 0714 and its "brothers", I would like to describe the capabilities of this machine as much as possible, both in the version of the turning and screw-cutting, and in the options when it can replace the drilling-milling, cutting and circular grinding machines. Of course, it is not completely replaceable, but when working with modeling or processing small workpieces, the machine can successfully replace the above machines, especially since there is a wide selection of various devices on the market that allow you to expand the capabilities of Chinese machines with a chuck of 80mm, RMTs 300mm-400mm and motor 350W-550W.
Before you start working on the machine, I highly recommend removing the side protective screen. The chips, of course, can scatter more strongly, but the sound of the machine will be quieter and, in addition, the protective screen will not interfere with the movement of the cross support when working with various drilling and milling devices.
So, in the main version for turning, the DIY 0714 machine allows you to process cylindrical and conical parts, cut metric and inch threads, drill, trim and other operations typical for screw-cutting lathes.
An 80mm lathe chuck or faceplate is attached to the spindle flange. There are a number of holes on the flange for mounting a chuck or faceplate. Their location and number allows

install not only a self-centering chuck with three jaws, but also chucks with four jaws. For machining parts with complex shapes or for turning parts with an eccentric, a four-jaw chuck is used, each cam of which moves independently of the others. To work with a part having a square or octahedron section, you need a self-centering chuck with four jaws. If you need to turn a part clamped in the centers, then into the spindle

headstock it is necessary to install a thrust center with a Morse taper? 3, and a rotating center with a Morse taper? 2 in the tailstock quill. Included with the machine are thrust centers for the spindle and tailstock. But I recommend buying a domestic thrust center with a Morse taper? 3 for the spindle. It is longer than the standard one that comes with the machine. Due to the fact that it is longer, it will allow you to completely turn the part to length. Otherwise, using the standard center, there will be an area that the cutter cannot process, because the standard stop center is short and the caliper will reach its extreme position on the left, but the part will not be able to pass through. In addition, a drill chuck (with a key or quick-clamping), a stop center, reamers or drills with a tapered shank can be installed in the tailstock quill. If the taper of the tool does not match the taper of the quill, then you need to

Buy adapter bushings. Such bushings allow you to switch from a smaller cone number to a larger one.
When processing a part with cutters, you can use cutters with a height of 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Do not forget that the cutter must be installed in the center, fixed in the tailstock quill. To match the cutting edge of the cutter with the center, it is necessary to enclose metal plates of various thicknesses. In the conditions of work on hobby machines, you can use strips cut from plastic cards of various thicknesses. Metal plates can be made from a folding ruler or a metal ruler. Both cost ridiculous amounts of money. And you can find them in almost any shopping center with racks that show tools and all kinds of household goods.
For taper turning, the tailstock can be moved horizontally. In addition, the cone can be sharpened using a cross caliper, which is set to the desired angle.

When accurately setting the angle of the cone, you can use the protractor, it will be more accurate than the one that is already fixed on the cross caliper by the manufacturer.
For threading there is a set of gears. It is necessary when cutting metric threads. The machine is equipped with them as standard by the manufacturer. To cut inch threads, you need to buy an additional set of gears and a lead screw.
If you need to bore an inner hole or make an annular groove inside a small hole, special cutters may be useful, but the holder shank of which may have a circular cross section. To use these cutters, I made a special adapter. In the future, it can also be useful as a vice for holding small cylindrical parts when cutting or cutting a slot. This adapter is a square holder from a conventional cutter, on which a drill chuck for a drill is fixed.

The cartridge is mounted on the M12x1.25 thread. It is not difficult to make such a holder, but during work it will come in handy not only as an additional device for a lathe.
If with turning most people who buy their first machine, everything is more or less clear, then when using additional devices that expand the capabilities of the machine, many questions arise. First of all, they want to know what you can buy and how to use it. Information in turning manuals is rather scarce, and the experience of others is rather limited. Or the usage rating may be negative, which may not reflect the actual operation of a particular attachment on your lathe. Before you decide that you want to use the machine not only as a screw-cutting lathe, but also in other ways, you must understand that all the backlash of the moving joints in the cross and cross slide must be selected. This is especially true for those places where the wedges are located. First of all, this applies to the cross caliper, because the cross caliper in most cases will be removed, and some kind of device will be installed in its place. To more reliably select the backlash, I replaced the screws with a slot for a flat screwdriver with bolts with an open-end wrench. With such bolts, it is possible to tighten the wedges more strongly, removing the backlash and not being afraid to break the slot. The slotted screws did not allow me to select the play as well as open-ended bolts.

Now, after the machine is prepared to work with various attachments, I will begin to describe what and how can be installed additionally on the DIY 0714 machine, expanding its capabilities to the maximum.
I'll start with the simplest - small vices.

They are installed instead of the cross caliper and tool holder. In order for them to stand instead of the cross caliper, a hole with a diameter of 8mm and a depth of 8mm is drilled from below in the sole of the vise.

By installing a vice on the cross support, you turn the lathe into a drilling or cutting machine. If you intend to use it as a drill, then the workpiece is clamped in a vice, and the drill (cutter) is clamped in a turning chuck or installed in the spindle taper if the drill (cutter) has a tapered shank.

The vise on the cross support can be set at different angles, respectively, and the workpiece will be drilled at an angle. When setting the vise at different angles, you need to use a protractor. The angle is set in the same way as when installing different angles of the cross caliper.
If you install a mandrel with a cut-off (cut-off) cutter in the spindle of the headstock, then the machine can be used as a cut-off.

The workpiece is clamped in a vise and fed to the cutter. Milling in this case should be passing, i.e. the rotation of the cutter is not against the movement of the workpiece. The workpiece can be cut at different angles, for this you can change the angle of the vise.

When choosing a cutting (cutting) cutter, one must remember that its thickness should be minimal, and the tooth should be as small as possible. If necessary, you can not only cut off the workpiece, but also cut a slot for a flat screwdriver.

If during operation it seems to you that the rigidity of the system is insufficient, then the cutting mandrel can be pressed with a persistent or rotating cone installed in the tailstock quill. I forgot to add that the nut that clamps the cut-off cutter on the mandrel must be turned so that the vise passes under it.
To move further and expand the capabilities of such a machine, you can install a milling fixture on the cross support.

Mills and drills can be mounted in a lathe chuck or spindle taper. Thanks to the milling fixture, the workpiece can move relative to the cutting tool vertically or horizontally.

In the milling fixture, a vice can be attached in various ways, depending on the size and geometry of the workpiece being processed. If the workpiece for some reason does not fit into the vise, then it can be clamped with fixing screws. They also fix the vise in the milling fixture.

Let me remind you that when working with a milling fixture, all backlashes must be selected. The cross support and the slide of the milling attachment must be secured against movement. Only the carriage assembled with various devices should move. If using a milling fixture you have to make various figure-of-eight clamps, then you can use an electronic height gauge to measure the center distance of the holes or simply measure the vertical movement of the slide.

In addition to the milling fixture, a cylindrical grinding fixture can be installed on the machine. Just do not forget that, using it or simply grinding the workpiece using a skin, an abrasive flies in different directions. Including flies on the guide beds. If they are not protected from this, then rapid wear of the latter is possible. Therefore, it is better to use wet rags that cover the entire machine. Do not forget that when covering the machine with rags, you need to do this in such a way that the rags themselves do not interfere with the operation of the machine. So before turning it on, try to imitate the work and see that the rags do not drag anywhere and are not wrapped around anything. After working with the circular grinding device, the rags are carefully removed and discarded. Or I wash the floors with them, but we don’t re-lay them on the machine.
When buying a similar machine, remember that it is for this category of machines that the most additional equipment can be found on our market. If some equipment does not fit, then it is easy to adapt it to the DIY 0714 machine. Often, users look for drawings of fixtures for processing external and internal spherical surfaces. They are looking for the purpose of making these devices. But there is no need to reinvent the wheel, especially since Proxon has a similar device in its catalogs and for sale.

To install this fixture on a DIY 0714 machine, I made an adapter.

Such an adapter can be made using a milling fixture, which I have already written about above.
Thus, you must understand that such a machine is a constructor and it depends only on you what can be assembled from it and how it (the machine) will work.
Concluding the material on DIY 0714, I want to say that machines from China can be treated as you like. It can be done with the disdain of a snob, or it can be done with respect, as to a good assistant. The reality is that a Chinese machine at a relatively low price can provide you with significant assistance, realizing your ideas in metal, plastic or wood. An electronic measuring tool will allow you to more accurately cope with the work. And remember that a small machine can do the same thing as a larger machine, only it will do the job more slowly. He can handle a lot and his possibilities are quite wide. You will enjoy working on it. The machine will answer your attention in the same way.

MULTIFIX cartridge type quick change tool post

MULTIFIX cartridge type quick change tool post- a modern design of the tool holder for lathes, which makes it possible to significantly simplify the change of the tool while reducing the time for its change. Differs in high accuracy of reinstallation, and also convenience and simplicity of adjustment. The MULTIFIX tool holder is suitable for all common types of screw-cutting lathes.

Features of the MULTIFIX tool post

Reliable eccentric clamp
Adjustment accuracy 0.01 mm
Ground ring gear
40 possible angular positions with a scale
Made from high quality alloy steel
Height adjustment of replaceable cartridges

Standard set

Comes with three replacement cartridges for square cutters and one replacement cartridge for round cutters. You can also purchase the tool holder and replacement cartridges separately.

How to determine the size of the MULTIFIX tool post?

Depending on the size and power of the lathe, MULTIFIX toolholders are divided into types: Aa, A, B, C, D. From the smallest to the largest. If you do not know the type of the required tool post, then you can determine it from the table:

Type of	aa	A		B		C			D
Drive power, kW	1	1	1	7	7	13	13	13	20	20	20
Maximum cartridge width Z, mm	80	100	100	150	150	150	180	180	180	200	200
Min. distance from the support to the center of the machine, X min, mm	18	24.5	28.5	37	45.5	47	55	63	60	70	83
Max. distance from the support to the center of the machine, X max, mm	26	35,5	39,5	57	56,5	87	90	93	95	100	103
Height adjustment, h, mm	8	11	11	20	11	40	35	30	35	30	20
Height of the seating area of the tool holder for tools, y, mm	6	8.5	8.5	12	13.5	15	15	18	20	20	25
Maximum size (height) of the tool, H, mm	12	16	20	25	32	32	40	45	40	50	63
Total length (tool holder + cartridge), V, mm	70	100	100	150	150	200	200	200	230	234	242
Tool holder height, S, mm	37	56	56	79	79	110	110	110	122	122	122
Distance from the center of the tool holder to the edge of the cartridge, U, mm	30	48	48	71	71	90	90	90	112	116	124
Tool holder central hole diameter, t, mm	13	20	20	32	32	40	40	40	40	40	40

MULTIFIX toolholder dimensions

How to determine the size of a MULTIFIX cartridge?

MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges, in addition to corresponding to the standard sizes of the tool holders (Aa, A, B, C, D), are also divided into three types of seating surfaces for the tool shank:

D - for a tool with a rectangular shank;
H - for a tool with a round shank;
J - for a round adapter sleeve for a tool with a Morse taper shank (2, 3, 4).

MULTIFIX cartridge designations

MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges are designated as follows: the first letter is the type of toolholder, the second is the type of shank, the first two digits are the height (diameter) of the tool, the last two or three digits are the width of the cartridge (tool clamp length). The designation, as a rule, is applied to the body of the tool holder.

If you require additional cartridges, or if you need to replace the MULTIFIX tool post, you can simply tell us the designation on the cartridge:

MULTIFIX on lathes

Screw-cutting lathes made in Slovakia, as well as any other universal screw-cutting lathes, can be equipped with a MULTIFIX quick-change cartridge-type tool holder. Same way MULTIFIX quick change tool post and cartridges can be purchased separately.

How to buy MULTIFIX quick change tool post and cartridges?

To buy the MULTIFIX quick-change tool post and cartridges for it, please send an application to the mail [email protected] website (or [email protected]), or just click on the button below and write what type of tool holder and cartridges you need, their number and details for invoicing.

Delivery

We will be able to send the MULTIFIX quick change tool post and cartridges by any transport company.

Alexey Orlov 02-01-2008 02:51

And how much if not a secret?

Ular 02-01-2008 03:14

quote: And how much if not a secret?

OSG 02-01-2008 03:23

Is it possible to order a part from you?

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 04:03

quote: And how much if not a secret?

It's no secret ... The machine itself (model with indication) - 21840 wooden,
Lunettes, a rotating cent, a tailstock chuck, a set of 6 cutters - separately ... In total, all 25,000 ....

quote: Is it possible to order a part from you?

You have to live up to normal turning ... You also need to run it in, measure it, adjust it ... Well, then it’s normal to sharpen it ... I’m afraid that all the Christmas holidays will go to STO ...

mixed 02-01-2008 10:29

My congratulations, a very necessary thing in the household.
I've been looking at something like this for a long time.
Give feedback on the operation of the unit.

Andy 02-01-2008 11:25

Victor, congratulations on a useful acquisition.

I hope that there will be a continuation of the review (I myself so rarely use other people's turning works that there are no thoughts about acquiring my own machine, but still, I read with great interest).

Don't call me a bore, but your previews are too big, and the photos themselves are too small. imho

Is the machine very noisy?

ivan-3 02-01-2008 15:12

At the first reading, I was jarred that the bed made of high-carbon steel, I think, is so high-carbon that it even looks like cast iron
Then, following the link, I saw that hemp was stolen from the site, so either the translation was not accurate or the Ketay overtook the Swiss in mechanical engineering
Those. I think that all the same cast iron, since steel is MUCH more expensive even for the Chinese (if they are even capable of making steel)

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 16:01

quote: Those. I think it's cast iron

Naturally, cast iron ... On almost all machines of this class and above (in size and weight dimensions), the frame is cast from kugun with subsequent processing ...
The general technical characteristics are taken from the Konoplev page, therefore, all the blunders in the translation to it ...
There are quite a lot of clones of these machines and they differ from each other only slightly (design, base, tool holders, tailstocks) ... Their main "bottling" apparently comes from one factory with minor variations.
For example, DIY 0712 - the same eggs, but with a base of 300 mm, its womb - Corvette 401, etc. Moreover, there are no unambiguous parameters for these clones anywhere, i.e. the parameters depend on the specific instance ... and the worst thing is that there is no normal technical documentation for them ... Until you take it apart and measure it yourself, there will be no clarity ... I found a description of the Corvette 401 in Russian on the network - at least there are drawings entrails (coincide with mine at the first viewing by 95 percent - maybe more should be looked at more carefully ...)
From those. documentation that came with the machine, in addition to the user manual (corresponds to a specific model by about 80%), there were also documents: instructions in English (on the model CT0618-300 / CJ0618-200 clones with bases of 300/200 mm, there are drawings of the insides), certificate for the device (CJ0618) and a test table of factory measurements (in Chinese)...

In short - as the device from the "do it yourself" series indicated in the review.

quote: I've been looking at something like this for a long time.

Sergey. About fifteen years ago I lived with a Soviet Universal-2 ... Compared to it, this one has a larger base, a larger hole in the spindle, an engine with electronic speed control (no need to change the belt every time) well, the weight is lighter (42 kg versus 60 - you can move / rearrange it alone) Considering that the new factory station wagon is almost the same price as this one, but you still have to refine it - I chose the Chinese

quote: Is the machine very noisy?

One and a half times quieter than an electric sewing machine ...
When replacing plastic gears, the noise will increase, but it's still nice that you can work at night and not wake up your neighbors...

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 01:14

I recommend purchasing from Konoplev just such a tool holder. First, no pads are needed to center the cutter. Secondly, it is very convenient to change the already exposed incisors.

By the way, I use 12x12 cutters, they fit perfectly into cartridges. In the cartridges, I re-cut all the holes, both for the adjusting and clamping screws, to the M6 thread.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:31

quote: I recommend purchasing from Konoplev just such a tool holder.

Vlad. Konoplev has a lot of interesting things ... I'm still thinking about quick-change toolholders, but I haven't matured yet. I’ve been used to putting fragments of saws and liners under the cutters all my life, even when working on large machines - this procedure doesn’t bother me much ... The standard tool holder is good for me because I put three main cutters there at once and in the process of working they can only be changed by turning tool holder...
From small things, in turn, buy a plan-washer and joke around a chuck for 100 (three-jaw self-centering) in order to make full use of the hole in the spindle ...
Well, if you saw it somewhere - whistle, you are interested in knurling.

blacksmith 03-01-2008 01:46

quote: Originally posted by Vlasenko:

interested in rolling.

On MiZ there is, although a little expensive ... something around 1000 ...

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:54

quote: On MiZ there is, although a little expensive ... something around 1000 ...

Hmm ... really expensive for a 10 bucks device ...

Zmeyuka 03-01-2008 12:51

Vlasenko, you write: "Spindle through hole diameter, mm - 20"
What is the diameter of the hole in the cartridge?
I ask because in the Proma machine, which I saw at the exhibition, in the spindle it was actually declared 20 mm, and in the chuck about 15 mm.

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 15:59

There is a machine, it will not take long to do the knurling yourself. And ready-made rollers can be bought at Moskvoretsky with both straight and oblique cuts. Yes, and you can look for a ready-made knurling there.
And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 16:39

quote: in the Proma machine, which I looked at the exhibition, it was declared in the spindle and in fact 20 mm, and in the chuck about 15 mm.

In all these Chinese clones, there is a hole in the spindle of 20 mm ... The 80 mm cartridges initially have a hole of about 15 ..., people bore it painlessly to 17 (it no longer works because of the mounting points on the cartridge) ... In cartridges 100 mm hole is something about 22 mm, but there you need to specifically look at its attachment to the spindle (either modify it, or through a plan washer) ...
In this regard, everything is more correct on Proksonovskaya 400 from the very beginning - a hole in the spindle 20.5 and a cartridge 100, but the prices are not very humane ...

quote: It doesn't take long to do the rolling yourself.

It won't take long to do everything. The heart feels a close visit to the Moskvoretsky market...

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 17:29

I advise you to look for such (or approximately such) leash center. This thing makes life very easy when you need to grind something that does not fit into the cartridge.

Vlasenko 04-01-2008 19:19

I ran to Konoplev ...
At home, I sharpened a little piece of wood, duralumin, brass ...
Added a little to the reviewer ...

quote: By the way, I use 12x12 cutters, they fit perfectly into cartridges.

Stupidly measured the groove in the cartridges of the set taken - 11 mm ... 12x12 will not fit without a groove ...

quote: And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

In the photo of the knurling of your manufacture?

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 15:58

So I took a tool holder for a larger machine. Although the tool holder in terms of also 50x50mm. I have a 14mm cutter slot.
The rolls are not mine. These are just so easy to make. I have a more complex knurling with interchangeable rollers. These machines have a rather flimsy mount of the upper support (for turning cones). I made another mount like on this site. There are a lot of adaptations for your own "excrements". By the way, in order to increase the rigidity of the tool holder, you can simply temporarily remove the upper support, instead of it put a plate of equal height, and a tool holder on it. (we don’t sharpen cones every day)
Here is the site. http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/index-e.html
Clamp: http://bedair.org/clamp/9x20clamp.html

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 20:15

quote: So I took a tool holder for a larger machine.

Perhaps ... Konoplev has separate cartridges, without a base holder ... It will be necessary to ring him so that he can measure the grooves on them ...
Can you make a reviewer on your JET with comments? Either a separate thread, or here. Although the machines are different, they have a lot in common ...

Ran today to the Moskvoretsky market. I bought rollers for knurling, an old hour indicator (0-10mm), well, and some other small things to replenish the cutting tool ...

By the way, this DIY Chinese, despite its power, is not so powerful. Yesterday I cut an M6 thread on a brass rack. I machined the shaft up to 6, then a manual die into the die holder and manually entered the machined shaft ... Well, then, as I used to on normal large sizes - the stop of the die holder on the bed and the supply of the smallest revolutions ... The spindle started half a turn and stood up .. I had to de-energize and cut to the full length with handles ...
I was pleased with all this that the plastic gears perfectly withstood the load. I decided to postpone replacing them with metal ones for the time being ... Let them plow until they break ...

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 22:47

For threading with a tap or dies on such machines, it is necessary to make a fixture on the back of the spindle and turn it by hand. Somewhere on the net there was such a thing. Yes, it seems to be attached to some of our desktop machines. This is such a handwheel, the front of which is a reverse collet. It is inserted into the spindle hole and the collet is unclenched with a bolt. We turn the handwheel when cutting threads.

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 23:09

quote: For threading with a tap or dies on such machines, it is necessary to adapt

It’s a no brainer that it’s better to adapt. For now, everything is the old fashioned way, there’s always not enough time for everything, but you need to do it ... So I remembered the old experience (in this way, at 3 kW, they constantly drove the thread M12 and higher ... Relics It was enough to scroll the machine, but the handles are already strained ...)

Well, in terms of carving tools - the option you know. If you want to clamp it into the tailstock, but you need to cut it to a large length - you can also place it in the cartridge ...

Vlad Klem 06-01-2008 14:27

So, I have this bullshit. But M12 and above is hard to cut with such a thing on small machines, especially if the steel is slightly heated (normalized). The roller in the cartridge (even in the 125th) scrolls. It’s better then with a cutter and it comes out faster and more accurately.

q123q 07-01-2008 23:08

Doesn't that little power bother you? Only half a kilo.....

sergeant 07-01-2008 23:26

For such a lathe, this is more than dofiga.

Konstantin_E 22-01-2008 23:53

Good evening. I see a lot of such machines. Most recently, an analogue has appeared - Proma300. Judging by the description, the machines are functionally identical, slightly different in size. For a home workshop, a very decent little thing. Recently worked on mine for a few days and had a lot of fun. I found that the machine easily removes a millimeter per pass, on the machine. Both from non-ferrous metal and from steel. The only thing that the Czechs did not watch was the limb was graduated for feed, and not for size from diameter. But this is a matter of habit. And they did not close the gears of the longitudinal feed from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is desirable to have skills from a larger machine. And do not load thread cutting with a lerkoy from the motor. If the gears are plastic, anything can happen. At this time, the load on them is noticeably greater than when turning.

varenik59 23-01-2008 21:35

in a conversation with Konoplev, information was received about the existence in nature of 80 mm four-jaw self-centering chucks for this machine, but now they are not there ... will order ...)

I have been working as a turner for a long time, but I never had to meet four-jaw self-centering cartridges. Of course, everything happens in life, but the point of a four-jaw chuck is precisely to fix the workpiece (if it is round) not in the center of the machine axis. If it does not have a round cross section, then what kind of self-centering can we talk about?

SiDiS 23-01-2008 21:59

There are both 4-jaw and 6-jaw self-centering chucks. The first is used for processing square-section blanks, the second is used for processing thin-walled blanks.

varenik59 23-01-2008 22:11

frankly, I didn't know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow tasks (for working on the process of a single operation). And for a universal lathe for a home (and not only home) workshop, all the same, it seems to me that a better three-jaw has not yet been invented. The machine is really good. The eye caresses.

Vlad Klem 23-01-2008 22:28

I have a 1.1 kW engine. But single phase. The transmission was heaped up, and the toothed belt from the engine to the clutch and the V-belt, from the clutch to the spindle, and as thick as x .. the soul and three-strand pulleys, not counting the heap of gears. I want to put the same engine, but three-phase and power it from the chastotnik, having previously thrown out all the pulleys, toothed and V-belts. Put a single-strand pulley on the engine and the same on the spindle and adjust the speed with a frequency converter. Tired of throwing belts, and they are torn. For the year I changed 4 belts, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution has been found. You buy a V-ribbed belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adole and get 6 belts. Relatives are standing like a helicopter.
On some belts, you can fly into the pipe.

Vlasenko 30-01-2008 01:30

quote: frankly, I didn’t know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow tasks (for working on the process of a single operation). And for a universal lathe for a home (and not only home) workshop, all the same, it seems to me that a better three-jaw has not yet been invented.

In this particular case, a four-jaw self-centering chuck is considered as a replacement for the regular one for the banal reason of a larger through hole with the same chuck size ...
Hole in the spindle - 20 mm
3-jaw 80mm - through holes. can be bored up to 17 mm, further restriction on fastening...,
4-jaw 80 mm - through in 22 mm without groove...
3-jaw 100 mm - through 22 mm, fits on the machine in terms of dimensions, but on the one hand it is heavy for this unit, and on the other, you need to be smart with its fit ...

quote: And they didn’t close the longitudinal feed gears from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is desirable to have skills from a larger machine. And do not load thread cutting with a lerkoy from the motor. If the gears are plastic, anything can happen.

The gears are covered with a casing, but the shaft itself is open ... but this is already food for self-refinement ... In general, the best option is to put oiled leather oil seals on all parts of the caliper (on the shaft, on the guides) - they simultaneously clean and lubricate the rubbing surfaces ... What is initially made of plastic and eventually tans and stops working ...
I have threading skills from a large machine ... (although I prefer to cut threads with dies by hand if possible) ...
As for the plastic gears - the devil is not so terrible - a set of new ones costs a penny, and if there is anything on the net, there are places where you can try to order an upgrade to bronze ...

quote: Tired of throwing belts, and they are torn. For the year I changed 4 belts, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution has been found. You buy a V-ribbed belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adole and get 6 belts. Relatives are standing like a helicopter.
On some belts, you can fly into the pipe.

... What did you want? I chose my own machine...
I don’t like to throw belts myself ... (I recall with disgust the Soviet Universal ...)

Desktop unit DIY 0714 is a compact metal turning equipment, which is produced according to a single technical documentation by several Chinese manufacturers.

1

DIY 0714 units were supplied to Russia by the commercial company Konoplev (an entrepreneur well known in the market of domestic equipment for metal processing). It was in this company that one could order a Chinese machine at a reasonable price. For this reason, one can often hear the expression - "I bought a turning unit from Konoplev."

Each company that currently manufactures the one we are interested in can make minor changes to its design. From each other, the equipment of different companies usually differs in two characteristics: the distance (maximum) between the centers of the machine and the power indicator of the installed engine.

The rest of the technical parameters of the metal lathes of the described model are the same:

spindle revolutions per minute - from 50 to 2500;
movement - 65 mm (transverse) and 35 mm (longitudinal);
working tool chuck diameter – 80 mm;
cone - Morse 2 (headstock), Morse 3 (spindle);
thread pitch (metric only) - from 0.5 to 2.5 mm;
section of the hole in the spindle - 20 mm.

A feature of the unit is that it is necessarily equipped with a special frequency controller. This mechanism changes the power that is supplied to the electric motor, which makes it possible to control the speed of its rotation as efficiently as possible.

The specified regulator independently increases / decreases the motor power, if required by the conditions for processing the workpiece. Thus, no matter what loads the lathe experiences, its spindle assembly always rotates at the same speed. This feature is very important for users of the unit, most of whom are amateurs, not specialists. DIY 0714 is usually called that - a hobby lathe, that is, one on which you can perform only household simple processing operations.

2

Structurally, the "brainchild" of Chinese engineers includes the following main parts and mechanisms:

sled;
guides;
two grandmas;
cross and cross support;
apron;
flywheels of the headstock bushing and carriage feed handwheel;
engine control module;
feed handwheel in the transverse direction;
spindle sleeve;
tool holder;
a handle that secures the headstock sleeve (spindle) in a predetermined position;
chuck (three jaws).

Also in the design of the unit there is a nut necessary for clamping the headstock, a handle for starting the longitudinal automatic feed, a lead screw, a thread indicator, a gear housing, a separate caliper (cross) feed lever.

On the back of the unit, in addition, there are two levers. One allows you to select the desired longitudinal automatic feed (three positions), with the help of the second, the type of feed is assigned (low or high).

Factory packaged DIY 0714 comes with chuck, fixed rear center, outside jaw set, four hex keys (3-6mm), gear set (change gears) for , chuck wrench, additional electric fuse and wrenches. These tools and fixtures allow you to install and adjust the desktop lathe without the invitation of a specialist.

3

The flywheel of the caliper (transverse) during rotation moves the caliper along the longitudinal slide along the guides. This feed is needed to remove chamfers from workpieces and to approach them with a tool.

The slide is moved by another flywheel in two directions - from the headstock and towards it. This handwheel provides the ability to quickly position the carriage in the right place when turning the product. Please note - if the lathe is operating in automatic mode, it is forbidden to manually move the carriage.

The cross caliper slide is controlled by a third flywheel. With its help, determine the distance over which the working tool should be moved. Otherwise, this procedure will not work. The flywheel is marked. It allows the operator to evaluate and perform the movement (relative) of the feed in the transverse direction.

When it becomes necessary to select the zero value of the flywheel, you should:

unscrew the fixing screw on it (a hex key is used);
set the value to "0" (simply by turning the handwheel);
turn the screw.

The spindle sleeve on the headstock, when fully screwed into the sleeve, pushes the thrust center out of it. The sleeve itself moves with a handwheel back and forth. And you can fix the sleeve of the headstock in the required position using a special handle.

The feed start lever (longitudinal) in auto mode is connected to a device that joins two parts of the sleeve into one whole. This mechanism is needed to crimp the lead screw. When the lever is actuated, a screw rotates in the sleeve and it is screwed (gradually) onto the threads. The feed is turned on when the lever is set to the top position and turned off when the bottom position is selected.

4

At the first start of the machine equipment, it is necessary to perform a comprehensive adjustment of the unit by adjusting the slide, nut and caliper bars (transverse), cross caliper bars, apron and lead screw. Manufacturers also recommend that, with the active use of the unit, such adjustment procedures be performed regularly in order to be sure of the operability and safety of the lathe.

On the guides, the sled of the machine is fixed by holders in the form of two plates. They are located at the bottom of the slide. These holders, in turn, are fastened with clamps that do not allow the plates to unwind during the operation of the lathe. The inserts are adjusted with hexagonal cap screws according to the following scheme:

on the right side of the unit, the screw bushing (running screw) is dismantled;
two bolts are unscrewed from the sled (front);
remove the apron from the screw by moving it slightly to the right;
on the holders loosen the locking devices.

After that, the clamps and plates are adjusted by twisting them using the tools included with the unit. When properly adjusted, the sled does not have the slightest play and at the same time easily moves along the guides.

In a similar way (loosening the screw and unscrewing the locknuts), the slats and nuts of the calipers are adjusted. These processes are well described in the data sheet supplied with the 0714 desktop machine.

Of great importance for the convenience of working on the equipment is the procedure for fine-tuning its apron. On this node of the machine, it is required to adjust the position of the half-bushings (they are threaded). From the feed screw, they must be located at the same distance. They are configured like this:

unscrew the screws securing the sled and apron;
half bushings are engaged;
carefully tighten the screws.

This procedure should be performed as often as possible, otherwise your lathe simply will not work well.

Quite often it is desirable to adjust the lead screw, or rather the two bushings in which it rotates. Each bushing is adjusted individually. To adjust the right bushing, it is necessary to dismantle the headstock, the left - the casing, which protects the set of gears from external influences. The adjustment process itself consists in carefully tightening all available screws and nuts.