Internet-controlled greenhouse automation. Thermostat for greenhouses - Medium complexity constructions - Schemes for beginners. Channel operation modes


The idea to make an automatic greenhouse came to me for a long time. It came to implementation and I began to study the greenhouse economy and the automation device for greenhouses. It turns out that an intelligent greenhouse is not so simple, there are a lot of subtleties that have to be taken into account. I'll probably start with the main thing - how the growth and maturation of different crops occurs and what environmental parameters should be maintained during these periods.

Air temperature

If tomatoes and cucumbers will grow in the greenhouse, then the environmental parameters for these crops are similar. Tomatoes feel good at air temperatures from +18 to + 25 ° С during the day and not lower than + 16 ° С at night. Soil temperature from + 10 ° С and above. For flowering and fruiting, the temperature can be increased slightly so that the fruits ripen faster and are larger.
At night, substances from the leaves go to the fruits. If the temperature is increased, the fruit will pour more actively. If the temperature is in the lower limits, then this promotes the growth of shoots and roots - for long-term fruiting.

To maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse, seasonal temperature fluctuations in the area where the greenhouse is located must be taken into account. If this is the southern part of Russia, then you can focus on automatically lowering the temperature, and if the northern part of Russia, then you will also have to take care of the heaters.

So I'll start about ways to lower the temperature in the greenhouse. The easiest way to lower the temperature in the greenhouse is to create ventilation. For ventilation, "actuators" are used, which open the vents when the temperature rises.

There are autonomous "oil ventilators" - the essence of their operation is simple, when the air temperature rises, the hydraulic oil expands and pushes the stem, thereby opening the window. When the temperature drops, it closes without any automation. But there are problems with them, the first problem is that if the air temperature is high and a cyclone suddenly flies by with an increase in the wind, the window may simply not have time to close and it can be torn off by strong wind currents. Well, the second problem is cylinder leakage, but this can be noticed in time.

Greenhouse actuators

I decided to make the airing more intelligent. The shops sell linear actuators that can be used to open and close the vents according to specified conditions. Because the automation always works, the ventilation can be connected to the general system, because the actuator does not cost more than the hydraulic cylinder and the possibilities are much greater. Combined with a wind sensor, barometric pressure sensor and temperature sensor, you can expand the capabilities of your greenhouse. For example, an atmospheric pressure sensor can monitor pressure drops, because it has long been known that with a rapid drop in atmospheric pressure, a strong wind is more likely to pass, and already the wind speed sensor will definitely show that all the vents should be closed.

Air humidity

This is the same important parameter in the greenhouse as the temperature, it should not fall below 60%. For different crops, this parameter can vary from 60% to 90%. Moreover, the parameter of air humidity changes depending on the stage of growth, flowering and fruiting. Therefore, in the automation for greenhouses, it should be possible to change the conditions or choose already established programs for different crops and stages of growth.

Ways to humidify greenhouses

To humidify the air in the greenhouse, humidifiers and humidity sensors are used, these can be ultrasonic humidifiers or high pressure nebulizers. Reverse osmosis filters should be used for ultrasonic humidifiers, because the piezoelectric element will quickly become unusable from the sun and other deposits. But the nozzles of the high-pressure sprayer also clog up, so a fine filter is needed.
For ultrasonic humidification, one fact should be taken into account, with ultrasonic humidification, the steam temperature is almost 40 degrees, i.e. when humidified, the overall temperature in the greenhouse will rise slightly. But ultrasonic humidifiers are an economical option; of course, it is better to use a high pressure pump and special spray nozzles.

Soil moisture and watering

Another important parameter for greenhouses is soil moisture. At different stages of growth and maturation, this parameter changes. The greatest need of plants for moisture during the seedling period is up to 90-95%, as well as in the phase of fruit formation and fruiting.

Automatic irrigation systems

Automatic irrigation in a greenhouse is arranged differently, but in the end everyone comes to metering irrigation. Soil moisture sensors can be used but with drastic modification. Chinese printed circuit board humidity sensors can show accurate data for no more than a month, after which the metal surface of the contacts disintegrates and oxidizes. If you use this sensor, then in the end the moment will come when you go into the greenhouse and you have a pool there, everything is flooded and your plants will probably die. Therefore, humidity sensors can be used in conjunction with a water flow sensor (water meter). It is necessary to measure the amount of water consumed per day and set this parameter. The soil moisture sensor can be used, but with modification, the contacts should be made of a material that conducts electric current and oxidizes as little as possible. It may be copper, but it also oxidizes with time, but this is already good, because you can clean the contacts once a year and use them again. But it is better to try graphite rods, graphite conducts electric current and does not oxidize. I have not tried it yet, but I would like to make such a sensor for the test. In general, you need to take the water meter readings as a basis, and you can turn off watering with a humidity sensor if it shows the maximum values. For example, in rainy weather, the water consumption decreases several times, and the set amount of water for the flow sensor can be too much. So it is better to make the control for irrigation combined.

Watering is switched on using a relay by a signal from a sensor or by time. The container for irrigation should be at a height and it is better to do watering by "gravity" simply by opening or closing the solenoid valve. Thus, you can make a more autonomous system, because to power the controller and valves, a conventional battery and a solar battery are enough. This principle of irrigation will be appropriate in places where electricity is often cut off for a long time.

Soil temperature

Soil temperature is also important to regulate as Keeping soil temperatures within certain limits will help expand the capabilities of your greenhouse. For example, in this way you can extend the greenhouse usage time from early spring to late autumn, and grow some exotic plants. Temperature control in an automatic greenhouse can be done with heating shades. Stores sell heating wires that are placed on the bottom of the beds. Heating is controlled through a controller that constantly reads data from a temperature sensor, which must be in the ground. Those. the temperature sensor must be waterproof. When the temperature is lowered, the controller will give a relay signal to turn on the power for heating. Once the soil temperature reaches the preset limits, the controller will disconnect power from the heater. To prevent the heating element from breaking down from frequent switching on and off, it is better to use special dimmers that will gradually apply a load to the heater.

Greenhouse on arduino


Greenhouse equipment

  1. Arduino Mega controller - aliexpress $ 10
  2. Relay box 8 channels - price on aliexpress $ 10
  3. DHT Temperature Sensors - aliexpress $ 1 price
  4. DS1820 Temperature Sensors - aliexpress $ 1
  5. LCD I2C data display module - price on aliexpress $ 3
  6. Soil moisture sensors - aliexpress $ 1 price
  7. Light sensor - price on aliexpress $ 1
  8. Electro magnetic valves for drip irrigation - 150 rubles apiece in a car shop
  9. An uninterruptible power supply unit for 12 volts without a battery - 700 rubles, with a battery of 2000 rubles.
  10. Electric door lock drive for a car (for a window) - 250 rubles in a car shop
  11. Float water level sensors - 200 rubles

Management of electrical loads


To control electrical equipment, a Relay Shield board is suitable, the number of relays must correspond to the number of devices + a margin for the future, you can always add. The picture shows a 4-channel board. We will turn on / off the pump, electromagnetic valves. If you use a servo or an electric door lock for a car, you can open / close the vents.

Environment parameters


Environmental parameters are read in the greenhouse using temperature and humidity sensors. This data can be used for ventilation.

Lighting control

You also need a photoresistor that will turn on the lighting.

Autowatering

A moisture sensor is needed for timely watering if the earth dries out. But autowatering should be regulated by several sensors, because the beds are usually long and the sensor will not be able to show accurate data for the entire area.

Timer

For additional automation schemes, you should get a clock board for arduina. For watering, it is worth using a timer in conjunction with an air humidity sensor. You can do a lot with the timer, and if you also use the calendar, you can increase or decrease the illumination interval depending on the requirements of plants of different crops

Access to the greenhouse via the Internet

If you don't want to limit yourself to only the offline version of the automatic greenhouse, you can buy a special network shield for 10 bucks on the same aliexpress, so that you can control the greenhouse via the Internet. We can also use the network to connect video cameras. You can follow our plants over the Internet.

Alarm SMS notification

I don’t want to get ahead of myself, but a thought came to my mind. For example, if water is not pumped into the tank, the pump is clogged, or the window is jammed and the temperature in the room rises above 80 degrees, all this can lead to the death of plants. If we live in a dacha, then we can once a day look into the greenhouse to see if everything is in order with the plants. But what if we are in another city? I think we need to make a security algorithm to check the boundary parameters of the greenhouse. If one of the parameters is approaching a critical point, you can send SMS using a GSM shield for arduiono, it costs about 50 bucks for aliexpress. We will always be in the know if our plants are uncomfortable and we can call a neighbor to check if everything is in order with the greenhouse.

Airing

There are several ways to maintain optimal temperatures. For greenhouses, the optimum temperature is +22 degrees, the maximum is +30 degrees and the minimum is +16 degrees. To begin with, we will use an oil thermal drive, I don’t know the price. a specialized one costs from 1,500 rubles, but you can make it yourself from an old automobile shock absorber and additional capacity for better expansion. In general, the idea is this, when the temperature in the greenhouse rises, the oil in the cylinder of the thermal actuator expands and pushes the piston, which is connected to the window, thereby opening. Conversely, as the temperature drops, the thermal actuator closes the window. If everything is calculated correctly, then electronic devices for maintaining the temperature are not needed, but we will make a fully automated greenhouse in case of extreme heat. And we will add more fans that will turn on if there are not enough oil thermal drives.

Watering

We have already read a lot about growing plants in a greenhouse, which is why watering is also dynamic, and maybe adapting to certain plants. We get the basic data for watering from moisture sensors, but it happens that it is necessary to specially do a special watering on a timer at the time of maturation or growth. To do this, we will write a script for a specific type of plants, but in the main we will use a moisture sensor. A large barrel is used for irrigation, it is better to have a dark color so that the water heats up in it, you cannot water it with cold water. The barrel is placed high so that there is a little pressure. A valve is connected to the barrel, which lets water into the dropper system. For complete control, it can be divided into sections with valves so that they do not overflow or underfill in different places, and use its own humidity sensor for each section. Two water level sensors (minimum and maximum) must be embedded in the tank. According to these sensors, the pump will fill the barrel if there is little water and turn it off if the barrel is full of water.

We bring it all to life with the program

As we come up with the exact scheme of automation, we can start programming sketches. The writing of the program is based on the C ++ programming language. On the Internet, you can find many examples that you just need to adjust to your tasks and change the numbers. At first, you will need to adjust the parameters and almost manually configure everything, and debug in the process, so you will have to constantly monitor and adjust. It usually takes a couple of days, one for setting up the second for checking, but it would be better for the first time to constantly be aware of what is happening in the greenhouse, otherwise the sensor may not be there and react poorly to changes. But then, when everything is fine-tuned, it will be possible not to worry about the microclimate in the greenhouse, and just pick fresh vegetables and berries from the beds. Arduino programming is not difficult, there are many examples on the Internet. This activity can be called a construction set for adults, fun and rewarding. The only thing I would like to say to all this is that arduino can solve everything, but for use on an industrial scale or for high reliability, it is questionable. For reliability, it is better to use ready-made devices, although Arduino has been working for me for several years without problems.

This article is not just a list of instructions for repeating my smart greenhouse, I tried to make a real presentation of greenhouse automation to inspire you.

I wanted to make such a smart greenhouse on a microcontroller with my own hands, in which the plants would not dry out without supervision for several days. The two main factors in the life of plants in the greenhouse are water and temperature, so the emphasis in the control scheme was placed on these factors.

Brief description of the system:
Rainwater is collected from the roof and stored in tanks. A submersible pump is installed in one rain tank. It pumps water into a make-up tank in the greenhouse. The feed tank contains 7 pumps that directly water the plants.

All plants are planted in pots, each of the seven pumps is connected to four pots. In each group of four pots, one contains a soil moisture sensor that transmits data to the Arduino module. In the application on my phone, I can set the humidity level at which these four pots will be automatically watered.

The greenhouse has two temperature sensors. If it gets too hot, a fan turns on, supplying cool air from outside to the greenhouse (there are also automatic ventilation vents in the roof of the greenhouse). If the temperature drops too low, a small heater inside the greenhouse starts to work to prevent the plants from freezing.

In the following paragraphs, I will explain the main points of how different parts of the system work.

Step 1: rain tanks



I have two rainwater collection tanks connected to a drain. The tanks are equipped with automatic overflow protection, which requires setting the filling level. The tanks are connected to each other by a hose, thus, a siphon spillway is carried out between them in order to achieve the same water level in both tanks.

The tank closest to the greenhouse has a submersible pump and an ultrasonic sensor that measures the distance to the water surface. They are connected to an Arduino module in the greenhouse and send data to my phone. Measuring the distance to the surface will also prevent the pump from turning on if the water level is below the water intake.

Step 2: make-up tank

The pump supplies water from the rain tank to the make-up tank in the greenhouse. It has seven pumps from cheap windscreen washers. An ultrasonic sensor monitors the level of the tank filling, I set the limits of 50% and 75% for automatic mode. Filling takes place from a rainwater tank.

Pumps 1-4 are connected to groups of four pots, pumps 5 and 6 are spare, and pump 7 is connected to a humidifier head. I did the latter as an experiment, pursuing the following goals: the first is to cool the air, and the second is to increase the humidity, which cucumbers really like.

Step 3: Potted soil moisture sensors

Soil moisture sensors collect and send data every half hour. The set value and data from the sensors are reflected on the phone screen, from the phone I can also change the settings.

Step 4: Turbulent Potted Rack

Hoses run from the pump to turbulent struts in four pots.

Step 5: fan

The fan operation depends on the set value in the telephone and is controlled by a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator), depending on how much higher the actual temperature is than the set values.

Step 6: temperature sensors

To measure temperature, I installed two DS18B20 single-wire sensors, one at the top and one at the bottom. Data from them are transmitted every ten minutes. Depending on the reading, I turn on the fan or heater.

Step 7: humidifier

Spray nozzle to increase air humidity and cool down if the fan fails.

Step 8: Arduino control system

Now I will not give a control program for the Arduino, while attaching a photo of the connection of the board with various relays and others like them. This kind of wire mess is caused by the changes I made after each test.

Step 9: Blynk interface

I am attaching interface pictures for the automation of the greenhouse. It is made with the Blynk app.

First picture: shows indication of low water level in tanks or signal error. In both cases, I stop the pumps. And also a graph of the history of data on water levels in both tanks.

Second picture: temperature monitoring data, also with data history graph. Here you can see the set values \u200b\u200bfor the maximum and minimum temperature in the greenhouse. The average temperatures are shown along with the percentage of fan power when the temperature exceeds the set values. You can also see if the heater is working.

Third picture: data from soil moisture sensors and setpoint for watering start. Countdown to the next measurement, interval 30 min. Measurement history graph with readings obtained.
The fourth picture: the ability to control the operation of the pumps directly from the phone, mainly for debugging purposes. Also here I can switch parts of the system to automatic mode. And set the duration of watering sessions.

Pumps Auto: The rain tank pump and the make-up tank pumps go into automatic mode, that is, water fills the make-up tank and plants are watered.
Watering 13:00 (watering 13:00): in automatic mode, plants are watered once a day, at 13:00.

Cooling Auto: The fan is in automatic mode and will start running when the temperature rises above the set value. The higher the temperature rises, the higher the fan power.

Heater Auto: The heater is in automatic mode and will start operating as soon as the temperature drops below the set value. The hysteresis is 1 °, that is, the heater will turn off as soon as the temperature exceeds the set value by 1 degree.

The article describes the hardware implementation of the microclimate control system in the greenhouse. This system is part of a real home garden. With its help, the process of growing plants has become partially automated, which does not require the constant presence of a person.

A specific instance of this system is being worked out on a frame-glass greenhouse, 6 meters long, 3 meters wide, 2 meters high. The greenhouse has one door and 2 vents, electricity and running water. The water is heated in a 70 liter container. The pressure in the container is about two atmospheres. About 35 plants are grown in the greenhouse.

The system looks like this:

Figure 1. Scheme of the microclimate control system in the greenhouse

The central place in the system is occupied by the Arduino Mega board (in Fig. 1-1):

Figure 2. Arduino Mega

Arduino is a completely open board and development environment that implements a revised version of the Processing / Wiring language.

The hardware platform used is based on the ATmega1280 microcontroller.

This system employs 8 digital inputs / outputs (there are 54 of them on the platform) and 10 analog (there are 16 of them in total). The board is powered by an external power supply.

The board has the following characteristics:

  • working voltage: 5V;
  • recommended input voltage: 7-12 V;
  • limit input voltage: 6-20 V;
  • 54 digital I / O ports;
  • 16 analog inputs;
  • consumption current at one output: up to 40 mA;
  • current consumption of 3.3V output: 50 mA;
  • flash Memory: 128 KB, of which 4KB is used by the bootloader;
  • RAM: 8 KB;
  • non-volatile memory: 4 KB;
  • clock frequency: 16 MHz;
  • size: 75x54x15 mm;
  • weight: 45 g;

The required sensors and modules are connected to the Arduino Mega.

Watering on / off depends on a number of parameters:

  • soil moisture;
  • water temperature;
  • times of Day.

This system employs 4 soil moisture sensors (in Fig. 1 - 2).

To measure soil moisture, a homemade sensor is used, which consists of two nails and a resistor. The principle of operation is based on the dependence of the electrical resistance of the soil on its moisture content.

Nails inserted into the soil at some distance from each other act as probes between which the resistance is checked. The resulting analog signal can be used to judge the degree of humidity.

The sensor circuit is shown in the figure:

To measure the water temperature, an LM335Z -analog temperature sensor is used (thermostabilitron, in Figure 1 - 3):

Figure 4. Analog temperature sensor LM335Z

The sensor used has the following characteristics:

  • range: -40 ... + 100;
  • accuracy: 1 ° С;
  • dependence: 10mV / oC.

A 2.2 kΩ resistor is required to connect the sensor to the board. Setting the current through the sensor in the range from 0.45 mA to 5 mA (resistor R1), we get the voltage across the sensor, which in tens of mV represents the absolute temperature in degrees Kelvin.

The connection diagram is as follows:

In order to turn on watering only in the dark, 2 Light Sensor-BH1750 light sensors are used (in Fig. 1 - 4):

This sensor is used to measure illumination in the range from 1 to 65535 lux.

It has the following characteristics:

Supply voltage: 3-5V;

Resolution: 16 bit;

Dimensions: 19x14x3 mm;

Accuracy: ± 20%.

The sensor is connected as follows:

Figure 7. Connecting Light Sensor-BH1750

When the readings from the sensors meet certain conditions (it differs for each plant species), watering is turned on. A solenoid valve is used to regulate irrigation. It is connected to the board using a relay (in Fig. 1-5). Namely, a relay module is used for Arduino projects Relay Module 2 DFR0017. It uses high quality Omron G5LA relay. The relay output status is indicated by an LED. This module is controlled by a digital I / O port. The contact switching time is 10 ms. Like sensors for measuring soil temperature and moisture, the relay module is connected to the control electronics via three wires:

Figure 9. DHT11 Temperature Humidity Sensor

In addition to irrigation, this system also controls the air temperature in the greenhouse.

The DHT11 Temperature Humidity Sensor is used for simultaneous measurement of air temperature and humidity (Fig. 1 - 6).

They are connected to the control electronics through three wires: power (Vcc), ground GND) and signal.

On the board, in addition to the sensor, there is a microcontroller, in the memory of which the calibration corrections for the sensors are stored. The signal from the device is transmitted digitally over the bus. This allows data transmission over a distance of up to 20 m.

This sensor has the following characteristics:

  • supply voltage: 5 V;
  • temperature range: 0-50 ° С, error ± 2 ° С;
  • humidity: 20-90%, error ± 5%.

To adjust the air temperature in the greenhouse, two modes are used: passive and active ventilation. Passive ventilation is the opening / closing of the vents, and active ventilation is the switching on / off of the fan.

The vents are opened using two (one per window) Futaba T306 MG995 servos (in Figure 1 - 7):

Figure 10. Servo drive Futaba T306 MG995

The servo used has the following characteristics:

  • operating speed: 0.17s / 60 degrees (4.8V no load);
  • torque: 13 kg-cm @ 4.8 V;
  • moment: 15 kg-cm at 6 V;
  • operating voltage: 4.8 - 7.2 V;
  • wire length: 300 mm;
  • dimensions: 40mm x 19mm x 43mm;
  • weight: 55 g.

The data received from the sensors is written to the SD memory card (in Figure 1-8). In the future, they are processed, analyzed and on their basis graphs of various readings are built. For this, the DFRobot SD card module is used:

Figure 11. SD card module

The fan is connected in the same way as the valve is connected (via a relay module).

Cultivation of crops in protected ground conditions involves the organization of a certain indoor microclimate. Otherwise, the greenhouse becomes not only of little use, but can also cause irreparable harm to the seedlings. You can provide the plants with the necessary conditions on your own. But, more convenient and efficient will be the automation of processes that affect the climate inside the greenhouse. How you can automate a greenhouse using ready-made and home-made devices - read the article.

Modern devices for the automation of greenhouses and greenhouses allow irrigation, heating and ventilation systems to operate independently. Today, there are several ways to automate processes that depend on. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Automation in greenhouses differs in the principle of operation (the method of bringing the mechanisms into action) for:

  1. Electric... Such automation is characterized by ease of installation and the ability to fine tune. The disadvantages of electrical systems include their high cost, compared with other types of automated systems, and dependence on the source of electricity.
  2. Hydraulic... Such technologies are reliable and absolutely safe: they are based on the principle of liquid expansion during overheating. Disadvantages of designs - slow response to a decrease in temperature.
  3. Bimetallic... Bimetallic devices are based on the ability of various metals to expand. Such systems are ideal for the automation of ventilation systems. The disadvantage of bimetallic automation is that it is not capable of driving heavy equipment.

The above automatic systems can be installed on any equipment that needs autonomous operation. The choice of automated structures depends on the gardener's budget, the presence of a power transmission network near the site, and the size of the greenhouse.

More about automation for greenhouses in our material:

Microcontroller-based greenhouse automation

Greenhouse automation is possible thanks to precise sensors that read the temperature, humidity and light levels inside and outside the greenhouse, timers that transmit information to a special controller. After that, the control system, based on the algorithms built into the program, evaluates the readings from the sensors and makes decisions on whether to turn on or off the greenhouse actuators.

It is the program regulator that drives the irrigation system pump, the fan and the vent door closer, lighting and heating devices. Today, there are many controllers whose main task is to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse. The price for the controller depends on the number of analog inputs and device memory. The most affordable is the Atmega controller on the Arduino platform.

More information about the smart greenhouse based on the Arduino chip can be found at the link:

The microcontroller-based greenhouse automation program is focused primarily on processes such as:

  1. Setting the set temperature and humidity.
  2. Turning on, off lighting devices, depending on the time of day and year.
  3. Control of the aeration system (opening and closing the vents, starting the fans when the air in the greenhouse overheats).
  4. Irrigation system control depending on the stages of plant development.

Such automation allows you to achieve maximum results when growing even the most fastidious crops, but it has a high cost, therefore it can be profitable only on large and industrial agricultural facilities.

Greenhouse curtain system

In large industrial greenhouses, to normalize the microclimate, greenhouse curtain systems are also used. In the domestic economy, such systems show no less high efficiency.

The curtain system provides shading to the greenhouse, reducing the chances of overheating the greenhouse due to solar radiation in summer.

There are side and top screens of curtain systems. At the same time, there are several types of canvases that perform different functions: complete or partial darkening, saving heat energy, keeping artificial light inside the greenhouse.

Often, to control the curtain system, they use centralized control from a single automatic microclimate control system in the greenhouse.

If necessary, the Screen activates a switch on the automation cabinet. In addition, the system can be included in a general controller program for controlling the climate inside the greenhouse.

Homemade automatic greenhouse

To avoid financial costs, automated systems can be completely or partially made by hand. Of course, in order to create automation on the controller, you will need thermostats, cyclic and daily timers, a finished board circuit, and communication channels with equipment. It will be much easier to organize automation for each separate process.

Most often, the irrigation system in the greenhouse is separately automated. The organization of the system depends on the dimensions of the panic. So, for small household greenhouses, a homemade drip irrigation system is often used.

The organization of drip irrigation has the following stages:

  1. Development of an irrigation scheme taking into account the individual sizes of the greenhouse.
  2. Preparation of materials (drip hoses, water tank, filters, taps, connecting fittings, main pipe).
  3. Installation of the tank at a height of 0.1-0.2 cm, installation of filters for water purification.
  4. Layout of the main water supply system and branch lines.
  5. Installation of shut-off valves on each branch.
  6. Connection of all components of the water supply using connecting fittings.
  7. Installation of droppers.
  8. Filling the tank with water.

The semi-automatic irrigation system includes irrigation by the method of solar distillation, in which water, evaporating from the reservoir, condenses on the bell, and flows down to the plants through special gutters.

Installing the machine in the greenhouse: thermovent for ventilation

The easiest way to control the temperature in a polycarbonate greenhouse is to install automatic vents for ventilation. Most often, an automatic vent is equipped with a thermal actuator that activates the device when the temperature inside the greenhouse changes.

The principle of operation of the thermovent is based on the ability of oils to expand when heated. In addition, the thermal drive can be set to the desired temperature for automatic ventilation of the greenhouse. Expert advice will help you to choose an automatic vent opener:

The automatic mechanism is mounted on windows or transoms that do not have a large windage. The opener is installed inside the greenhouse, at the top of the openable structure. For its installation, you only need a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. The thermal actuator can also be mounted on greenhouse doors.

Equipment: automation for greenhouses (video)

Greenhouse automation is a modern, convenient way to increase productivity in a greenhouse. All processes in automated greenhouses take place without human intervention, which is an indisputable advantage for gardeners, whose garden plot is located far from their permanent place of residence. Equipping the greenhouse with automation, you will stop worrying about how not to forget to open the window, turn on the lighting and heating devices in the greenhouse: the “smart” system will do everything for you, creating the most optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of the crop!

Vitaly

Arduino greenhouse controller

This year I built a 30 sq. m. for tomatoes. Initially, I planned to cover it with polycarbonate, however, after weighing all the pros and cons, I decided to use a copolymer EVA film. Well, now, when the season is over, I can already say that I made the right choice and the greenhouse pleased me with a pretty decent harvest (roughly, about one and a half centners). The size of the greenhouse is 3.8 * 8, that is, approximately 30 sq. m full area, of which about 24 sq. m. useful. Ventilation was carried out in a natural way through open doors and vents located at the ends of the greenhouse. The maximum temperature in the greenhouse with the doors and vents open did not exceed the outside temperature by more than 5 degrees at the peak, although there are no vents at all on the side surfaces of the greenhouse. If I used SPK (cellular polycarbonate) to cover the greenhouse, the temperature in the absence of vents in the roof would rise over forty. In addition, the transparency of the used film, like that of a monolithic PC, is high - 92%, which ensured that the tomatoes fruited very well and were clearly in a generative mode due to the abundance of light. In SPK, although the transparency of each layer is approximately the same, the percentage of light passing into the greenhouse is significantly less - 92% * 92% \u003d 84%, plus some is lost on the partitions, which ultimately gives the transparency no higher than 82%. As a result, the plants receive significantly less light and switch to a more vegetative mode, forming more leaf mass and less tomato. And besides, you have to constantly deal with the formation of leaf mass, which is surplus due to the competition of plants due to a lack of illumination.
In my greenhouse, due to the abundance of light, I did not have to deal with breaking leaves at all, I only broke off my stepsons, there were few leaves on the plants, and there were a lot of fruits. True, another problem arose - the light burn of leaves and fruits. On the leaves, this manifested itself in the yellowness of young leaves, which formed shortly before the onset of heat, and on the fruits, in the appearance of white sides on the fruits from the side facing the sunlight. This factor had a very negative effect on the harvest, which could have been much larger, and even led to the fact that the bushes did not retain their full-fledged appearance by autumn, and even phytophthora tried. Then I still did not know anything about late blight - how it arises, what contributes to its spread. Then I found out that the cold is not so much terrible for the tomato as the "bath" - when the plants stay for a long time during the day, like in a steam room, which appears if the sun is already in the sky, and the greenhouse is completely closed. All summer I did not close the greenhouse at all, neither day nor night, in spite of any changes in the weather, the doors and vents were constantly open. However, closer to autumn, when due to cold nights it is necessary to close the greenhouse at night, when fungal diseases begin to rage, and temperature drops at night and during the day, and consequently, condensation increases sharply, the windows that are not open in time can help you at one time end the season. This is exactly what happened to me - all day almost the tomatoes "soaked" at a temperature of 20-30 grams. and everyone fell ill with late blight due to the fact that I did not have any ventilation automation at the moment, and I could not come to the greenhouse every day. As a result, I had to throw out 7 buckets of tomatoes, mostly almost red and pink ripeness.
Interestingly, despite the total late blight disease, as soon as I eliminated the causes of the disease and began to monitor the opening and closing of the vents in a timely manner, the bushes began to continue to grow and grow more or less healthy fruits, so in September I practically removed almost all harvest. In October, we managed to remove about 8 additional buckets of fruits, and now about a hundred still ripen there.
In the future, I will continue to describe how I came to the conclusion about the need to use an automatic temperature and humidity control system and why it is better to make a control system based on a controller. Then I think to go directly to the project. In general, this topic is not about what has already been done, but about what I am just going to do - the topic of further improving the greenhouse, and I firmly decided to develop and implement the system. If you want to take part in the discussion of this topic, you are welcome, for this it is not at all necessary to wait until I finish the presentation of this prelude, especially since it, in general, is not necessary.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

I returned home, I continue. Below you can see several photos of the construction of the greenhouse and the ripening of the crop. I had no seedlings this year - there were enough tall varieties only for the extreme beds, and even then not completely, the rest were planted undersized. Moreover, half of the tall ones and all the undersized ones were frozen on the window and they were delayed in development for almost 2 months. They planted the seedlings in a permanent place late - on June 1 and 2, and I covered the greenhouse only on July 21, and that was only because the weather outside at that time completely deteriorated, it was cold, it rained continuously, so I had to cover it in a strong wind and, as soon as they put on the film, it started raining. And literally on the second day after the shelter, the weather changed dramatically and the heat came. Tomatoes did not endure such a sharp transition very easily, given that in the evening, when I covered the greenhouse, I did not have time to make the windows and doors and the greenhouse stood the next day until 12 o'clock completely covered until I arrived to finish it.
Literally after 2-3 days, I realized that I could not cope with a temperature over 30 in the heat, if only because it was sometimes up to 33 on the street. I thought for a long time about how to solve the problem, I really didn't want to hide the greenhouse from the sun, because a 1% decrease in illumination is equivalent to a 1% decrease in yield, and even more in spring - the harvest is lost by 1.5%. One of the options was to install sprayers on the greenhouse roof, which would be triggered when the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 degrees, the other was to make 3 doors on each side, the possibility of which was laid even at the design stage. Moreover, the doors were supposed to be made as openings into which it would be possible to insert frames, tightened with an anti-mosquito net or frames, covered with film, if it is cold, but I decided not to do this at the manufacturing stage.
It took me a while to learn that there is a very effective way to quickly lower the temperature in the greenhouse using foggers, which at the same time allows you to adjust the humidity in the greenhouse. Now I decided to include foggers - foggers in the climate control system, and return to shading if for some reason this measure turns out to be insufficient to keep the temperature at 25-30 grams. and the exclusion of the formation of white barrels on tomatoes due to the combination of strong light and high temperature, although I think everything will be fine.
Then I will tell you about my conclusions about what temperature regime should be provided to tomatoes during the day for their normal growth and development, how this can be ensured and why ventilators based on hydraulic cylinders are completely unsuitable for these purposes.
And here are some photos:

Investments:

Last Edit: 10/20/15

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

Temperature regime

Based on the initial experience of operating the greenhouse this year, I have concluded for myself that there is no more important task in the process of growing plants in it than the task of temperature control. This is equally important for a greenhouse with any coating, even film, even SPK, even profiled polycarbonate. Of course, there are coatings in which this issue is practically not relevant - these are not transparent coatings, but white coatings and mesh greenhouses, but we will not consider these options here. Moreover, in this topic, I decided to limit myself to considering the regulation of the parameters of a greenhouse, made exclusively for tomatoes.
The fact is that each plant has its own favorite range of temperatures, humidity and other parameters. In order not to spread the thought along the tree, from where I took these specific temperature levels required for tomatoes, which I will give below, I leave it to you, if the need arises, to check them and clarify. I won't even think about it again, but just copy what I said recently in this thread:

And what, in fact, is required to create at least some of the most primitive climate control in a greenhouse? For tomatoes, for example?
All you need to do is monitor the temperature outside and open the vents as early as possible in the morning, when the temperature outside rises above about 12 degrees, in order to dry the leaves and fruits from condensation, you need to open the vents and doors when the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 25 grams. and turn on the foggers when the temperature rises above 30, and turn on the heating of the greenhouse when the temperature in it drops below 12.
That's probably all. If you add some more automation, I'm afraid it will not be better, but worse. For amateur greenhouses at this level, this minimum is perhaps the optimal one, allowing you to get a decent harvest of healthy products, and not the crumbs that now have the majority.

And another fragment:
The question is how much is in demand?
Not how much, unfortunately. In order for something to be in demand, you need at least an awareness of the need for it. And at what level many people argue here with us, one can judge by a rather typical statement: My cucumbers grow in the same greenhouse with tomatoes and bear fruit perfectly. Well, what can you explain to a person who is not familiar with the basics of agricultural technology? And since he has zero understanding of the need to maintain any kind of climate in the greenhouse, he naturally has no demand for the systems that support it. he will read it and say something, emphatic, like: "There will be golden tomatoes," or maybe he will express it more clearly and roughly, like: "The cat has nothing to do ... well, etc.
Many people prefer to simply build entire sarcophagi for plants with complex underground heat storage systems and pay 200 thousand or more for them (no offense they will be told, they are not doing this for mercantile reasons), instead of installing at least the simplest system of thermoregulation, and they also claim that there is no other way (but this is already an insult).
Now let's look at the other side. There are people who are well versed in electronics and programming and they can easily make a very inexpensive regulation system, but I do not see that at least one of them said: For a tomato, you need to provide such and such and such. And then their development could become very valuable for many, at least for those whose consciousness is not blinded by the need to build sarcophagi - the same dinosaurs from the point of view of automatic regulation as an ordinary film tunnel, even if it was called pretentiously, say, "Ivanov's Solar Vegetarian".
Yes, that a special thermostat is needed. If you use a separate device to control each individual parameter, it will not work out simply or reliably. I'm afraid that for the implementation of the minimum I have indicated, one cannot do without a controller.

Yes, you say, we will make the device in a minimalist form, and then it turns out that there is still a lot to follow, alterations and rise in price will begin. Fortunately, automation based on software devices differs from rigid automation schemes in that it is not difficult to change control parameters and introduce new functions, and costs increase, mainly, only for additional sensors and actuators, and only the program changes in the system itself ... Therefore, it is quite reasonable, at the first stages, to limit as much as possible the number of functions performed by regulating only temperature and humidity, so as not to waste extra effort and money.
Humidity in a greenhouse is just as important a parameter as temperature, but these parameters are strongly related, therefore, by adjusting the temperature, we, at the same time, will change the humidity, and it is not absolute, but relative humidity that is important. For the sake of simplicity, you shouldn't bother too much for now, it's better to focus only on temperature control, but more on that next time, where I will try to list all the equipment needed to create a minimal control system and roughly estimate what it will cost.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

More about temperature

I just thought, it is probably necessary to describe in some detail the reasons why the temperature in the greenhouse should be regulated precisely within the limits that I described above.
The fact is that the growth of southern plants at temperatures below 12 grams. it stops altogether, and if even lower, they begin to wither and catch various diseases, therefore, it is impossible to open the greenhouse when the outside temperature is below 12. On the other hand, in the morning in the greenhouse copious condensation collects on the leaves and fruits. If you allow a "bath" when the bushes are wet, and the temperature rises to 20 and above - for phytophthora this is paradise - better not. So you can ditch the entire crop very quickly. Therefore, you need to open the vents as early as possible. In the summer, in the middle lane, it is easiest to simply not close the vents and doors at all, but somewhere in August, according to the weather, you need to transfer everything to the machine.
The optimum temperature for tomatoes is 25 grams. If it rises higher, you just need to open the ventilation vents. If the temperature rises above 30, this is fraught with damage to the leaves from overheating, sterilization of pollen, sunburn and other troubles, therefore, upon reaching 30 grams. foggers should work - foggers, effectively lowering the temperature by several degrees.
If the temperature in the greenhouse drops below 12 degrees, then this, I think, is already understandable - I described it above - a heater of any type should turn on. In the fall, when you just need to ensure the growing of the set fruits, I think you can lower this threshold to 6-10 degrees in order to save energy. By the way, heating up to 40 degrees during the day is not so terrible, since tomatoes are already at the stage of growing and sterilization of inflorescences is not terrible. If your tomatoes have already been infected, then such a high-temperature heating will kill phytophthora, therefore, in order to disinfect, you can deliberately leave the greenhouse completely closed for several hours on a sunny day, just so that the temperature in the greenhouse rises, at the same time, above 30 grams. After that, the greenhouse must be thoroughly ventilated. Actually, I did just that and maybe that's why the tomatoes in my greenhouse are still alive.
Well, perhaps that's all. Even if this is only realized, the plants will be in much more comfortable conditions and will give a much larger yield than in a greenhouse, in which the temperature jumps from 35 degrees. in the afternoon up to 5 gr. at night. In any case, such an algorithm is quite suitable as a reliable basis, and then the question of further optimization will become clear by itself in the course of practical operation.

And now - about the minimum set of equipment that is needed for the control system.

Controller hardware kit

1. Controller - 1
2. Display unit (screen) for the controller - 1
3. Power supply 12 V for the controller - 1
4. Outside temperature sensor - 1
5. Internal temperature sensor - 1
6. Heat gun - 1
7. Electric door drives (actuators) - 2
8. Electric transom drives (actuators) - at least 2, for greenhouses from SPK - more
9. Foggers (foggers) - for a greenhouse with a length of 8 m about 8
10. Cabinet for placing equipment - 1
11. Residual current device - 1
Well, to ensure autonomy, in the event of a power outage, the solar panel - and the battery - 1. And, along the way, there are various other little things, such as pipes for electrical wiring, the wires themselves, etc.
I do not quote the cost of each piece of equipment now - it’s just kind of lazy and a little too busy, it will be gradually clarified, the best options, suppliers, models will be selected, so, I hope, interested participants will help determine this issue.

Last Edit: 10/21/15

Vitaly, it is not clear to whom your very detailed speech is addressing. Judging by the fact that you chew the basics in detail, most likely, for beginners, because everyone else, it seems, should be familiar with the above. The topic of greenhouse automation, raised by you, is undoubtedly necessary and important, but it causes some skepticism about the path you have chosen.
I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth, but as I see it, the project usually starts a little differently. Initially, goals and objectives are discussed and set, technical specifications are drawn up, and appropriate solutions are selected. Sometimes even one small point of the TK crosses out the use of any solution methods, narrowing the scope of the available tools. Something like that in short. You have already selected the Arduino platform right away. Then explain why exactly her, and not, for example, raspberry PI or something else. Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to hang a very limited set of tasks on it, greatly narrowing your wishes. Until now, very basic crafts have been done on it. There were some regrets among the enthusiasts working for it that it "does not handle" many tasks. Also, it seems, the set of sensors for it is very limited. I am not against automation and discussion, but, for me personally, building a system on Arduino does not cause any practical interest. So I’m curious, maybe I’ll stop by, read it and that's it.
Do not narrow the topic down to just one platform, do not discard the possibilities of enthusiasts on other platforms. Then the topic will probably be more crowded and useful solutions will appear more often.

P. S. If this topic was created only to describe your experiments with Arduino, then I apologize in advance that I got into the wrong place with advice. I’m already talking about what I want to have in the greenhouse, so to speak, the minimum TK, visible to me.

  • Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

    Vitaly

    Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

    Vitaly, it is not clear to whom your very detailed speech is addressing.
    ... as I see it, a project usually starts a little differently. ... You have already selected the Arduino platform right away. Then explain why exactly her, and not, for example, raspberry PI or something else. Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to hang a very limited set of tasks on it ... Until now, very basic crafts have been done on it. There were some regrets among the enthusiasts working for it that it "does not handle" many tasks. Also, it seems, the set of sensors for it is very limited. ... for me personally, building a system on Arduino is of no practical interest. ... Do not narrow the topic down to just one platform, do not discard the possibilities of enthusiasts on other platforms. Then the topic will probably be more crowded and useful solutions will appear more often.
    ... I'm already talking about what I want to have in the greenhouse, so to speak, the minimum TK ...

    In general, for every active forum member who writes comments, judging by the statistics, there are 200-300 people who simply read. Who do we refer them to? Are they newbies? Or are there quite a few advanced among them who simply do not want to enter into a discussion that seems shallow to them, or they simply do not have enough time to participate in discussions? On the other hand, if there is a group that does not need to chew the basics, then we do not see their development in this area. Such discussions on this forum have arisen more than once, but the result is not noticeable. I know of only 3 examples of, perhaps, successful automation of greenhouses. The first example - I gave the link above, the second here: I don't remember, though, whether he really has an implementation on the microcontroller, and even SergeiL's greenhouse is running under the control of a Samsung-based controller.

    Naturally, I chose the Arduino platform for myself, and if in the process of implementing the system on it I meet difficulties - I, as they say, will be responsible for this. But I immediately made a reservation that I did not intend to somehow limit the freedom of discussion in this topic and was ready to discuss any aspects, except, of course, a simple chatter of the question. So please discuss any platform if you find a correspondent. I have already made a decision on where to stop, because if there is not a single one that has been decided among those discussing, then, accordingly, there will be no result in the end.

    And what about the fact that Arduino is a very elementary platform, I would like to clarify what you mean by that? Enthusiasts opinion? Let's take a closer look at what these enthusiasts are and what they tried to do on the Arduino before they came to this conclusion? Arduino is just a circuit-oriented language that makes it understandable for people who understand electronics. This is an open platform, so there are a lot of ready-made solutions in it, it is designed so that even non-specialists can start doing something for themselves using software technology, which led to the emergence of many such enthusiasts. Yes, it allows, but it does not exclude the need for serious education, but this is precisely what enthusiasts often lack, so they begin to pass from a sore head to a healthy one. And therefore, before giving up on Arduino technology, I would like to know what the fundamental limitation of the capabilities of this language can you bring? Does he weigh a lot? Is the command system not functional? Is the performance low? Extremely awkward to program? What exactly?
    Let me tell you a little secret. The thing is that you don't have to do anything special about the development of circuitry or programming to automate the greenhouse. This has long been done before us and greenhouses have been working for a long time , and not one person. You can just stupidly repeat everything, without inventing anything, if this is enough for you and do not want to add something of your own. Get familiar with the material, perhaps you will change your mind about the Arduino.

  • Registration: 11/03/13 Messages: 651 Acknowledgments: 766

    Understood, I will not interfere with the discussion. I have a little more desire for automation, so Arduino did not suit me, although, I repeat, my knowledge about it is superficial, taken from reading forums on this platform, may not be sufficient.
  • Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

    Vitaly

    Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

    Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to hang a very limited set of tasks on it, greatly narrowing your wishes. Until now, very basic crafts have been done on it. There were some regrets among the enthusiasts working for it that it "does not handle" many tasks.

    Here is this topic to help you in order to profile your attitude towards Arduino. As far as I, not a programmer, understood from the dispute between two programmers, the claims to Arduino do not lie in the weakness of the platform. The claims were connected, as far as I understood, with its insufficient, in the opinion of the opponent, high level. However, a low level, you see, increases the power and speed of the language - any system programmer will tell you this. And the fact that the low level complicates the writing of the program, as he claims, depends on who. After all, Arduino is a language tailored for electronics engineers, so for them it will be, as a specialized language, much more convenient than a universal one. Another thing is for programmers who understand electronics rather weakly, but in high-level languages \u200b\u200bate a dog - their opinion can therefore be understood.

    Last Edit: 10/21/15

  • Registration: 10/20/11 Messages: 1.177 Acknowledgments: 570

    In my opinion, before arguing about what to build the automation on, you need to decide on the technical specification, otherwise you will now push the industrial CNC into the greenhouse so that you can open a couple of vents according to temperature. Although, again, if it is convenient for someone to work with this or that controller and it is possible to use it, then why not, even if it is redundant. In any case, you need to start with the technical assignment and the construction of a control algorithm. So far, from what has been written above, it follows that: below 12 turn on the heating, above 25 open the window, above 30 turn on the foggers. While the circuit is very simple, you can even do without a controller.
  • Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

    Vitaly

    Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

    ... In any case, you need to start with the technical assignment and the construction of a control algorithm. So far, from what has been written above, it follows that: below 12 turn on the heating, above 25 open the window, above 30 turn on the foggers. While the circuit is very simple, you can even do without a controller.

    Well, try it. I'm not sure that you can do without a controller even with such a simple algorithm. But you have already simplified the algorithm I proposed, because I wrote that there are 2 sensors: one - in the greenhouse, the other - on the street, I just proposed the same threshold in both cases - 12 grams.

    Do you think that it will be easy to implement even a seemingly very simple algorithm in such an inertial object as a greenhouse? We can already assume that there will be many obstacles on the way to its implementation. For example, foggers instantly knock down the temperature at the top of the greenhouse, but overheating remains below, which means that intensive mixing of the air and additional sensors will be required, with the complexity of the control program, of course. Humidity, too, cannot be increased uncontrollably - this will already begin to harm the culture, and effective temperature reduction will become impossible. Consequently, it is assumed that in the future the algorithm and the entire system will become more complicated, it will be necessary to introduce fans for mixing the air and for exhaust ventilation in order to reduce humidity.
    It's just that at this stage, much cannot be foreseen, especially since, for example, I have not done anything like this before. Therefore, he proposed precisely the minimally complex option, which anyway cannot be done by simpler means, for example, with the help of a thermostat. The meaning of this approach is that it is not difficult to complicate the device in the future. Therefore, now I would like to do the circuitry part - try to draw a diagram of the device's core. Editor for drawing email I saw schemes in the topic that I already gave above. I have already downloaded it myself, though I still have no idea how to work in it. It is difficult and long for one to move, especially when you don’t know much, so further everything will go very slowly. Today I spent all day choosing devices on the Internet - everything that needs to be bought, considered many options and, perhaps, made a far from the best choice, but the process gradually went.
    The editor can be found here: sPlan - maybe someone is familiar with it or can advise the best one, but for now I'll try to use it.